Sri Lanka by tuktuk

Our hotel is on the banks of the Bendiwera Lake, a massive piece of water.

At about 6pm we were treated to a fabulous sunset, then the strangest thing happened.

Initially I saw a huge bat fly overhead. Not the small frantic flappy types were used to, this fella was a brute and used his wings much more slowly, like a bird. However, the silhouette was pure Gotham City, certainly no bird.

Then there was another, then another, then absolute squadrons of them, all flying in the same direction down the lake. Over about 30 minutes we estimated over 1,000 flew overhead.

Sam (clever youngster, always bring a clever youngster) identified them as flying foxes. T’interweb confirmed that they roost in a spot a few hundred metres from our hotel and this daily migration is a well known thing.

To see it, though, was pretty mind blowing. A real David Attenborough moment.







IMG_0486.jpgIMG_0487.jpgIMG_0946.jpgIMG_0938.jpegIMG_0931.jpegIMG_0927.jpegIMG_0926.jpeg
 
Magnificent. I mooted the possibility of continuing our holiday by Tuktuk. The family did not bite. Kudos to you sir.

BTW it seems everyone here in Sri Lanka has a bike or a scooter, I’ve not seen one bigger than 250cc yet.
 
You don’t need much in life - we have seen quite a few locals using these 2 wheeled diesel agricultural devices to plough their land, run pumps, pull trailers with towering loads or just take the kids to school - fabulously useful bits of kit


IMG_0949.jpeg
 
Polonnaruwa is most noted for its ruins. This was the seat of one of the country’s most fondly remembered kings. The moral code he prescribed would stand up well today - the translation is below.

In about 400 AD the Sri Lankan civilisation was extraordinarily well advanced. As well as their own temples (to the Buddha) they also built a temple for visiting Cambodian tradespeople, for instance.

On the site they also find coins from Rome, Africa… trade was alive and well.

IMG_1032.jpegIMG_1033.jpegIMG_1034.jpegIMG_1040.jpeg
 
This frieze depicts elephants for prosperity, lions for the national symbol… and the little guys at the top?

They are people who lived lives outside the high standards of the king’s code, and instead of going to heaven are reincarnated, their role being to hold up the structure of the temple.

Serves them right…

IMG_1039.jpegIMG_1038.jpegIMG_1037.jpeg
 
You don’t need much in life - we have seen quite a few locals using these 2 wheeled diesel agricultural devices to plough their land, run pumps, pull trailers with towering loads or just take the kids to school - fabulously useful bits of kit

We used to see those regularly in rural France and Germany.
 
In conclusion… wow, what a place.

Having our own transport made this trip really flexible, we did what we wanted, when we wanted. If we repeated it we would plan to use smaller quieter roads. Relying on Google maps often had us on quite busy routes. The distances were good, though, 110-120km represented quite a long day because you’re going slowly, you stop to look at things and you do need to keep your concentration. 80-90km days were about right.

The tuktuks were great, and being clearly non Sri Lankan, we often created a bit of fun with locals laughing and photographing us. You need to quickly understand the rules of the road, which are quite simple - the largest vehicle has priority. And if you’re in a tuktuk, there is a strong chance that that’s not you!

On the busier roads we spaced out to allow overtaking trucks and buses, which will shove in regardless, a decent space to move into.

Plus, any vehicle might do anything, at any moment. Quite genuinely. But because it’s the norm, it’s just accepted. People use their horn an awful lot to let you know they are there, but never angrily.

Such lovely peaceful people and, unlike India, respectful of your personal space so you can walk down a busy pavement without attracting any attention. Spirituality and tolerance seem to reign. Sri Lankan people are proud of their country and cultures, and enjoy it when you notice things.

Value for money - hard to gauge because we stayed in some decent places so probably had ‘western’ prices, but cokes bought out on the road for instance seemed really cheap. Beers and wines bought from a bottle store were again very good value. In fact the more you drink, the more you save.

As a solution to the challenge of taking your non- biking family on a biking holiday, it was a huge success.

Thanks again to MartinK for planting the seed of the idea. 👍

Now, where can I buy a tuktuk in Surrey….IMG_1123.jpeg
 
We used to see those regularly in rural France and Germany.

there was at least one Piaggio Ape in the London Borough of Sutton. The late Neil Murray, former MCN journalist, bought a 50cc one as his then 16 year old daughter could "ride" it on L plates as it counted as a moped. It was mostly used to do the commute to/from the family allotment.
 


Back
Top Bottom