Static Sag
- Thread starter ~Stef~
- Start date
Ditto! I've heard about "setting up static sag" - WTF is it, why does it matter, and how do you set it up?
Andy
Andy
Static Sag, is how much the suspension compreses under the bikes weight.
With the bike on the centre stand, measure the distance between the drive box and seat, take the bike of the stand and with the aid of an assistant measure from the same points, the difference is the STATIC SAG.
Static sag is just a small part of the comlpex art of suspension setup.
With the bike on the centre stand, measure the distance between the drive box and seat, take the bike of the stand and with the aid of an assistant measure from the same points, the difference is the STATIC SAG.
Static sag is just a small part of the comlpex art of suspension setup.
The Mechanic
Guest
Static and other interference.....
Just because someone tells you the measurements for their bike doesn't usually mean that they'll be better for your bike. Other factors have to be taken on board, rider weight (weigh yourself wearing your normal riding gear complete with crash hat) most people use their naked weight which is normally along way off their suited and booted weight.
As already explained measure the 'static' sag WITH THE DAMPING SCREWS BACKED OFF TO FULLY SOFT (suspension free of any weight, measure at fixed points, put bike weight on suspension and re-measure). Now sit on the bike feet on the footrests...good idea to have someone to hold the bike for you....and someone else to measure the amount of compression that has taken place with you on the bike (you'll be getting nicely warm in all of your kit).
You now have some data to work with, the total compression with you on board needs to be aproximately 25-30mm at the front and rear. Make suitable adjustments with the ride height ring at the front and the rear (depends what suspension manufacturer's units you have fitted) Now you need to go for a ride and see if you like it (for some it is too hard a ride).
REMEMBER TO TAKE A SCREWDRIVER WITH YOU as you will need to adjust the damping to suit your taste. Please be carefull where you keep the screwdriver in case you have an off.
Too much (firmer damping tends to make the tyre skip from bump to bump-front or back)
Too little allows the spring to take over and the ride becomes choppy.
Try to aim for a compliant ride, thats one that doesn't let the front dive too quickly or the rear keep kicking up the 'arris'.
If you are not happy then return everything to Mr. B*W's hand book settings and start all over again, but make small adjustments and then try the bike; progressive experimentation rather than radical alterations.
Hope this is helpful, I've always found that MCN and the other wanna be racer mags suspension set-ups are not real world.
Hint, if you have the back suspension set to throw more weight on to the front then the steering will be and feel quicker this may suit you or it may un-nerve you initially, SO BE CAREFUL
Just because someone tells you the measurements for their bike doesn't usually mean that they'll be better for your bike. Other factors have to be taken on board, rider weight (weigh yourself wearing your normal riding gear complete with crash hat) most people use their naked weight which is normally along way off their suited and booted weight.
As already explained measure the 'static' sag WITH THE DAMPING SCREWS BACKED OFF TO FULLY SOFT (suspension free of any weight, measure at fixed points, put bike weight on suspension and re-measure). Now sit on the bike feet on the footrests...good idea to have someone to hold the bike for you....and someone else to measure the amount of compression that has taken place with you on the bike (you'll be getting nicely warm in all of your kit).
You now have some data to work with, the total compression with you on board needs to be aproximately 25-30mm at the front and rear. Make suitable adjustments with the ride height ring at the front and the rear (depends what suspension manufacturer's units you have fitted) Now you need to go for a ride and see if you like it (for some it is too hard a ride).
REMEMBER TO TAKE A SCREWDRIVER WITH YOU as you will need to adjust the damping to suit your taste. Please be carefull where you keep the screwdriver in case you have an off.
Too much (firmer damping tends to make the tyre skip from bump to bump-front or back)
Too little allows the spring to take over and the ride becomes choppy.
Try to aim for a compliant ride, thats one that doesn't let the front dive too quickly or the rear keep kicking up the 'arris'.
If you are not happy then return everything to Mr. B*W's hand book settings and start all over again, but make small adjustments and then try the bike; progressive experimentation rather than radical alterations.
Hope this is helpful, I've always found that MCN and the other wanna be racer mags suspension set-ups are not real world.
Hint, if you have the back suspension set to throw more weight on to the front then the steering will be and feel quicker this may suit you or it may un-nerve you initially, SO BE CAREFUL
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