Sticking Rear Brakes

Bohsfc

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Just changed the pads all round and while I am getting a good brake on the back wheel, the brakes are not releasing completely.
If I put the bike up on the centre stand and try and spin the wheel I only get about half a turn before it stops. ABS lights are staying on from time to time (both lights static).
The piston went back handy when doing the pads and I took them out again and cleaned the caliper down but still the same.

Any ideas from the knowledge base???

cheers

Rob
 
Check the slider pins. They corrode badly and I don't think you can replace them (unless anyone knows different). £45 plus delivery for a secondhand unit from Motorworks (R1100GS).

Barry
 
Motorworks do a spring clip and pin replacement kit afaik - I read it somewhere on here do a search.

Edit: http://motorworks.co.uk/bmw/product..._30&header_text=&header_text_image=0&spPage=2

Less than £9. Sorted.

That's the pad retaining pins (fitted that kit myself a couple of months ago).

I think Waterloo is talking about the pins that the actual caliper slides on and like he says I'm not sure if you can change these or have to change the caliper / carrier.

However it may well be worth dong a full strip down and clean (including the caliper slide pins). I did mine and found the pins to be very cruddy (but not corroded) - I cleaned everything with naptha and brake cleaner and reassembled using red rubber grease for the caliper slide pins and copper grease where required elsewhere. This noticeably improved my rear brake. If the caliper slide pins are corroded I believe they can be cleaned up with fine wet and dry as long as they aren't too far gone.

There's a huge and overcomplicated write up about doing a full rear caliper service on ADV somewhere (there may well be something more concise on here if you have a dig).
 
Thanks for the responses. I had a look at the pins last night and the bits that are not coverved in rubber seals do not seem to be corroded in any way.
I did notice one thing, but not sure if it would cause the sticking, and that was that one of the spring clips at the top of the caliper (just above where the pads sit) was missing (or should there only be one).
With this missing could it cause the pads not to be sitting right and therefore contribute to them sticking.:nenau
 
Thanks for the responses. I had a look at the pins last night and the bits that are not coverved in rubber seals do not seem to be corroded in any way.
I did notice one thing, but not sure if it would cause the sticking, and that was that one of the spring clips at the top of the caliper (just above where the pads sit) was missing (or should there only be one).
With this missing could it cause the pads not to be sitting right and therefore contribute to them sticking.:nenau

It's worth doing a complete calliper strip and clean - you won't be able to see any crud which may be causing the sliding calliper to stick. It's an easy job if you're methodical - you'll need some brake cleaner and silicone brake grease (usually red in colour - not to be confused with copper grease).

That ADV article I mentioned above:
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/BFDRear2.1.1.pdf

cheers
M
 
Open the caliper bleed nipple, push the caliper body towards the wheel with your hand so forcing the brake pistons back in and some fluid out.
Retighten bleed nipple :thumb
 
Took my back caliper off last weekend and stripped it. Used a tin of brake cleaner and some clean brake fluid with a brush to clean the really yucky bits. New spring & retaining clip as well as pads. Works lovely now.
 


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