Stiff clutch

[John Roberts]

It's an '82 R100RS. Despite changing the clutch cable, the clutch operating arm needle bearing and greasing the clutch handlebar lever pivot it's still stiff, in fact it's been like that for as long as I can remember. In the past I have tried oiling the cable but that didn't help and have since been told that I shouldn't have done it anyway.

Now I'm wondering if the clutch cable has been incorrectly routed, it looks reasonable to me, no kinks, certainly, but can somebody with a similar model tell me how it ought to be routed please?

 

[PW Cymru]

Hi John,
I'll take some photos of mine and post em.

I haven't touched my cables (routing wise) since I've had the bike and it's nice and smooth.

 

[John Roberts]

Hi John,
I'll take some photos of mine and post em.

I haven't touched my cables (routing wise) since I've had the bike and it's nice and smooth.

Top man! Thank you Paul.

 

[Kenny]

Long shot ( as it happened to me )... disconnect the clutch cable at the lower end..so cable just attached at the bars. Then pull in clutch lever ( on both lock ) and see it it is still stiff !! Obviously if it is then it is the cable ( and/or ) routing. I mention it as I replaced the clutch cable and mine was very stiff ( but perfect when laid out straight )..and I ( as you have ) lubed everything..even ended up taking the gearbox out to check the pressure plate etc Turned out it was a duff manufactured clutch cable ( motorworks special ) that tightened up when routed ( curves !! ) on the bike !!
If all else fails, it is probably the gearbox/clutch splines need cleaning and lubed with Optimol paste ( can be done with gearbox still on the bike....just, with a toothbrush etc.

 

[GSSTEVE]

Here is a poss idea, if your clutch actuating assembly is the same as my G/S which i think it is...
Remove the clutch actuating arm and there is a rubber boot held on with a jubilee clip.
Remove the clip and rubber boot, then check the spring is intact in good condition and then check the condition of the piston that actuates the pushrod. Make sure all parts are looking good, grease and reassemble. Lots of crap can build up..
Also make sure the piston is fitted the right way round...yes they will work both ways but just make sure.
The routing should be fairly self evident and as long as the cable is not binding on either lock all should be good.
Eliminate the cable by buying a new one...cheap as.
Hope this helps,
Steve

 

[GSSTEVE]

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0427&mospid=51646&btnr=21_0086&hg=21&fg=51

CHECK OUT DIAGRAM ABOVE

 

[r100gser]

stiff clutch

Hi, similar thing happened to my 91 paralever, the clutch piston (part number 2 ) in the diagram, is made of a platic the will swell over time, especially if it comes into contact with oil, this will cause it to rub on the tunnel it sits in, however if the clutch is not sticking off it might not be this causing the problem.

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0427&mospid=51646&btnr=21_0086&hg=21&fg=51

 

[PW Cymru]

The routing is fairly simple, it just loops in front of the headstock and down through the gap above the gusset plate (picture A)

Then it just follows the righthand downtube of the frame, gradually going from the left side of the tube to the rear then the right.

Thats assuming the routing of my cable is correct, however the clutch is quite light.

 

[John Roberts]

Thank you all, especially P(aul)W Cymru for your trouble. The routing does seem to be OK- bugger- so I suppose I'll have to get my hands dirty. It's encouraging to know that it is possible to get at the splines without taking the gearbox off, never heard of that before, great. As for changing the clutch cable, this is the third one, but with no perceptible change. So next step will be to have a look at the Piston, item #2, in the Realoem diagram.

Again, thank you all.

 

[John Roberts]

Update.

Had a rummage under the rubber boot and all seems well lubricated and quite free, as was the cable when disconnected.

Funny thing was, the spring (item #4 in the realoem drawing, the one between the cover and the piston) was missing altogether. Actually I don't think its absence makes any difference in the pull required at the lever but my question now is whether it's worth the bother of getting another one nowthisminute, because as far as I can see all it does is put a small residual tension on the cable to stop the lever flapping about. Whaddyareckon? I'll pop a spring in when I get one with my next order from Motor Works, it's just that I'm curious, that's all.

Another thing that puzzles me- well, annoys me rather- is the fact that for the first few pulls on the lever after having a look at everything it was definitely lighter i.e. easier to pull, but then seemed to go back to the original heaviness. Everything is lubricated; handlebar lever, the needle bearing in the operating arm, the nipple at the g'box end of the cable, and, as said, the piston #2, housing the thrust bearing. I'm buggered if I can think of anything that might cause this variation though. Oh, I haven't lubricated the cable, Steptoe said a while back that I shouldn't, and if I remember correctly the label on the cable also said the same thing. I've had three cables in the last few years and the clutch has always been heavy. Also it was heavy before having the gearbox out, the bastard has been heavy for as long as I can remember. Well, not quite perhaps, it was light when the bike was new in 1982.

So the way things are going I'll be looking at Kenny's suggestion, although I'm a bit puzzled, you say "with the gearbox still in the bike", do you mean after separating the gearbox from the engine but with both still in the frame?

 

[Kenny]

So the way things are going I'll be looking at Kenny's suggestion, although I'm a bit puzzled, you say "with the gearbox still in the bike", do you mean after separating the gearbox from the engine but with both still in the frame?

Did mine by pulling it back approx 12mm and put Optimate paste on splines with a toothbrush ( I'd recommend using the wifes btw sticky stuff etc )......anyways, if your clutch is THAT stiff and has been for a while....it won't take much longer to completely remove the gearbox ( obviously clutch left untouched so gearbox splines will go back on/in very easily ) and give the splines a proper clean and lube.

 

[John Roberts]

Did mine by pulling it back approx 12mm and put Optimate paste on splines with a toothbrush ( I'd recommend using the wifes btw sticky stuff etc )......anyways, if your clutch is THAT stiff and has been for a while....it won't take much longer to completely remove the gearbox ( obviously clutch left untouched so gearbox splines will go back on/in very easily ) and give the splines a proper clean and lube.

Cheers, Kenny. Am I right in thinking I won't have to disconnect the swing arm? Pretty please?

Took the bike out this afternoon for a quickie, and, blow me, the clutch was fine once again. I am wondering now if I cleared some of the dirt on the splines when I operated the clutch to the fullest extent possible with the aid of a piece of pipe on the operating arm after I disconnected the clutch cable while having that rummage yesterday. I did that to get a feel of the withdrawal mechanism and check that it was operating smoothly. I did wonder at the time if I was operating it beyond its usual range when operating it normaly with the handlebar lever.

Of course, it could be back to its usual recalcitrance tomorrow, but it's rather encouraging at this stage. I'll let you know how it goes.