Struggling ... rear petrol tanks bolts GSA

[steele01]

glad you got it sorted mate I remember my Haynes manual giving me a bum steer on the LC 350 when I was 14 haha looking back now they are such pains when they are incorrect
sounds like a job well done in the end though

 

[Sunny Jim]

Tom - sorry but missed your offer of help yesterday - thanks very much and a great gesture

Job is done and will be a much easier to replace in the future

 

[DrFarkoff]

(Sorry Doc but never found out if I'd knackered the captive nut and the bolt is in bits )

Oh you did! Believe me LOL Sooooooooooo easy to do!

I had a couple of turns at this and it was "just " crisis averted when I felt it starting to Nip


Removed the tank and cleaned the threads with a tap and a coat of alu grease to make things glide in Smoothly

Congratulations on Getting a n easy (in the end) solution

 

[Bendy toy]

I had a couple of turns at this and it was "just " crisis averted when I felt it starting to Nip

Removed the tank and cleaned the threads with a tap and a coat of alu grease to make things glide in Smoothly

This is exactly what happened to me. I managed to tap out the damaged thread.

The tank pulling on the bolt makes it really hard to feel the threads. Creating a lead-in bolt allows me to pull it inline before threading it in. I used a standard hex head as that's what I had available. It works fine but a countersink hex socket would be similar to OEM.

The air filter intake tube has to be removed before the tank can be removed.

 

[Pukmeister]

The last time I refitted my GSA fuel tank, I used a long piece of softwood about 3/4" thick and 2" wide between the top of the airbox and the fuel tank to lever the tank easily up/down and align the tank mounting bolts. The front mounting rubbers need to be relaxed to let the tank move around a bit. The rear mounting bolts are also well greased to prevent galling the fine threads in the captive nuts.