Struggling to identify it and the torque setting - help!

Mark Hooton

Mark Hooton

Cymarcbikeparts
Joined
Oct 29, 2009
Messages
3,993
Reaction score
121
Location
Scunthorpe England
Guys, I`ve had reason to remove the arrowed fastener (I`m messing about with a hugger for my LC) and I can`t find the tightening torque :nenau

I`ve trawled through my RepRom & my Haynes and I simply can`t find it - I`m sure its there but with an I.Q. in single figures and time not being a luxury I was wondering if anyone can not only identify the bar (swingarm torque bar? Extravagant rear brake hose support?) but also tell me what the correct torque setting is please?

In anticipation thanks :thumb2

Mark.

10983126636_cffae087ca_o.jpg
[/url] torque by cymarceng, on Flickr[/IMG]
 
Reaction link or strut , 43 Nm. at both ends for my 2010 GSA.:thumby:

Or maybe ɯu 34 as the drives been flipped over????:beerjug:
 
FFS just tighten it up. If it loosens, it's too loose, if it strips, it's too F tight. It's not rocket science. I can't understand this obsession with torque wrenches.
 
I had an Ilmberger on my Hexhead. I took it off because the gap to the TUV shovel just threw dirt all over the place. IMO only a mudguard that goes right over to the shovel will stop the crud.
 
Mike O said:
I thought it was a civil and reasonable question... :blast
Click to expand...

It was :)

And so was the reply :)

Paul Rochdale said:
FFS just tighten it up. If it loosens, it's too loose, if it strips, it's too F tight. It's not rocket science. I can't understand this obsession with torque wrenches.
Click to expand...

If any of us was stuck at the side of the road, would the absence of a torque wrench or access to this illustrious forum, prevent us from tweaking a few nuts and getting on our way?
 
Boxerboy55 said:
If any of us was stuck at the side of the road, would the absence of a torque wrench or access to this illustrious forum, prevent us from tweaking a few nuts and getting on our way?
Click to expand...

I agree, but the OP wasn't in those circumstances, where you might make a 'get you home' repair - he was asking for a specific piece of information.
 
There is too much fuss about the torque on ordinary fasteners. I'm no professional mechanic (far from it) yet I only use a torque wrench for specialist fasteners. I have not yet had anything fall off and have not broken any good fasteners**. Nothing is perfect but almost always, failed threads were because the thread was already damaged or I used torque wrench.

A correctly tight bolt will spring slightly. An overnight bolt goes solid just before it yields and fails. Add some anti seize paste or thread lock and it gets even more complicated. Specialist bolts need special measures hence the torque wrench, but they remove that all important feel for what's going on.

** excluding corroded or seized fasteners
 
Bendy toy said:
There is too much fuss about the torque on ordinary fasteners. I'm no professional mechanic (far from it) yet I only use a torque wrench for specialist fasteners. I have not yet had anything fall off and have not broken any good fasteners**. Nothing is perfect but almost always, failed threads were because the thread was already damaged or I used torque wrench.

A correctly tight bolt will spring slightly. An overnight bolt goes solid just before it yields and fails. Add some anti seize paste or thread lock and it gets even more complicated. Specialist bolts need special measures hence the torque wrench, but they remove that all important feel for what's going on.

** excluding corroded or seized fasteners
Click to expand...

I totally agree - I`ve been tightening up ordinary fasteners for over thirty years with no problem whatsoever however the more specialist ones do need some attention if the job is to be done properly - not by the roadside but properly in a workshop - and yes with experience its possible to gauge (with that all important `feel`) the tightness of a bolt near enough for it to be ok.
 
Sorry if my post was aggressive. :cool: I just find the obsession with torques misses the point that a fastener is right when its tight enough.
 
Bendy toy said:
Sorry if my post was aggressive. :cool: I just find the obsession with torques misses the point that a fastener is right when its tight enough.
Click to expand...

That's absolutely fine geezer - sadly its a problem with forums that due to the lack of all the other ways we communicate (body language) its difficult to gauge the intent or attitude of what people say and it can easily spark off no end of hell and damnation. I`ve seen it quite often even on this fine forum.

Let me assure you that if any `aggression` was intended (which I`m sure it wasn`t) it still would have been very fine as life is too short and I have far more better things to worry about!

So, no harm done (or intended!) and thank you for the kindness of `fessing up - there`s really no need but a good thing to do anyway pal.

(btw if you look in the LC part under `all huggered up` on the last 3 pages you will see why I am somewhat preoccupied with other things...............)

Regards,

mark.
 
Paul Rochdale said:
FFS just tighten it up. If it loosens, it's too loose, if it strips, it's too F tight. It's not rocket science. I can't understand this obsession with torque wrenches.
Click to expand...

Yes, just tighten very slowly, keep going until it starts to get loose then back off a bit :D
 
Use a torque wrench if you have ANY doubts or fears

it is what they are for

In saying that Mark old son that one is steel on steel and no bit would to have to be drilled out

So to coin a phrase from here "Horse her on up tight Kiddo!"

But please Do not try to guess the torque for the rear wheel studs! Or anything that is directly into Alloy!

If you are too loose with Wheel bolts they WILL work loose, If you are too tight you will stretch the metal and risk fracture failure at a later date!

I once had to change all 20 front wheel studs because some fuckwit in work (Not me but a 4th year apprentice) lifted the torque wrench that one of the guys had just torqued a crank bolt on a Scania 144 up to 1000nm and was waiting 15mins for the check time

Said apprentice horsed up all the wheel bolts to 1000nm instead of 600nm (approx) In the part between where the wheel mounts and the wheel nut tightens upon say 8 mm thick the threads were stretched and pulled so much so 20 mins after the job was done one of the nuts/stud pinged and flew about 3 feet and another followed and there was a great scratching of heads and then a real fuck off rush for jacks to get under the axle as they started to creak and fall off out of 20 about 6 fell / pinged off

So If in doubt use a torque wrench

But learn to use it

Set the torque

IF the wrench clicks immediately back it off and go forward until you get movement before it clicks (its likely over torqued if it clicks immediately)

Finish the torque checks and then immediately release the tension from the spring and put it back in its box!

They should be calibrated every year if used in a workshop environment

If I am away and do not have a torque wrench my basic rule is up face to face then about an 1/8th to a 1/4 turn and no more until I can get a proper check in the workshop
 
DrFarkoff said:
Use a torque wrench if you have ANY doubts or fears

it is what they are for

In saying that Mark old son that one is steel on steel and no bit would to have to be drilled out

So to coin a phrase from here "Horse her on up tight Kiddo!"

But please Do not try to guess the torque for the rear wheel studs! Or anything that is directly into Alloy!

If you are too loose with Wheel bolts they WILL work loose, If you are too tight you will stretch the metal and risk fracture failure at a later date!

I once had to change all 20 front wheel studs because some fuckwit in work (Not me but a 4th year apprentice) lifted the torque wrench that one of the guys had just torqued a crank bolt on a Scania 144 up to 1000nm and was waiting 15mins for the check time

Said apprentice horsed up all the wheel bolts to 1000nm instead of 600nm (approx) In the part between where the wheel mounts and the wheel nut tightens upon say 8 mm thick the threads were stretched and pulled so much so 20 mins after the job was done one of the nuts/stud pinged and flew about 3 feet and another followed and there was a great scratching of heads and then a real fuck off rush for jacks to get under the axle as they started to creak and fall off out of 20 about 6 fell / pinged off

So If in doubt use a torque wrench

But learn to use it

Set the torque

IF the wrench clicks immediately back it off and go forward until you get movement before it clicks (its likely over torqued if it clicks immediately)

Finish the torque checks and then immediately release the tension from the spring and put it back in its box!

They should be calibrated every year if used in a workshop environment

If I am away and do not have a torque wrench my basic rule is up face to face then about an 1/8th to a 1/4 turn and no more until I can get a proper check in the workshop
Click to expand...

what a story! Thanks for sharing that with me. And no - I don`t do this - But please Do not try to guess the torque for the rear wheel studs! Or anything that is directly into Alloy! I`ve learnt the hard way too and despite the other kind opinions of other folk I do know how important it is to use (properly) a torque wrench and for which fasteners.

Thanks again for the guidance!

Ride safe.

Mark
 
If I am away and do not have a torque wrench my basic rule is up face to face then about an 1/8th to a 1/4 turn and no more until I can get a proper check in the workshop
Click to expand...

I was taught that rule by my father, who learnt it a de Havilland's...... or at least the face-to-face plus a quarter turn, bit. Has stood me in very good stead.
 
I did my engineering training in a power station. The weekly routine maintenance charts included a wrench torque test on equipment mounting bolts which was never done. The fitting foreman told me they'd had a spate of mounting bolt failures. All sheered due to over tightening. When the regular torque wrench checks were stopped they had no more bolt failures. Even though some checks might have been done with the wrong wrench settings there were just too many failures. It was concluded that every check was adding just a little more turn on the mounts until they failed. They never had any mounts comes loose in spite of continuous vibration throughout the building.

As we know a tightening torque is a compromise, but then so is doing it by "feel". Both have limitations and benefits.
 
I've just restored my R100GS-Paris Dakar from the ground up and am content to say that (apart from the Jim Cray engine) no torque wrench has been within a mile of her, and never will. 500 miles running in and so far no stripped threads nor anything (apart from the spokes in the professionally rebuilt wheels) loosening. Perhaps it's just 'luck'?

I've noticed on some American forums this obsession with torque wrenches. "What torque shall I tighten the mudguard/numberplate bolts to?". I think that such questioners should keep well away from any toolbox and simply take their bike to a motorcycle mechanic if they want to have a bolt tightened.

Mike O - no, I didn't think it was a reasonable question.

I am sorry if my response was thought to be anything less than civil but I sometimes wonder just what happened to commonsense.:nenau
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top Bottom