Struggling to idle when stopping

[Marlou]

I seem to be having a problem with the tick over on my 03 1150GSA, when I stop at a junction etc and clutch in so bike is on idle it seems to dip the rev's down to about 1000rpm and below and the bike sounds like its going to stall (in fact it did today for the first time) which is a pain in the arse and unnerving.

Just wondered if anybody had any thoughts or had the same problem......

As an after thought it seems that it's linked to the braking as once I have stopped and released the brakes the rev's rise back to about 1250/1500rpm. It is the ABS version but they seem to be working fine.


Cheers

 

[Canuck]

No idea how it could link to the brakes other than some kind of battery issue... but have you adjusted the BBS?

 

[flatdog]

Have you tried selecting neutral (preferred option) instead of just the clutch which may be dragging slightly and reducing the idle revs as a result.

 

[Marlou]

Have you tried selecting neutral (preferred option) instead of just the clutch which may be dragging slightly and reducing the idle revs as a result.

The issue is as I stop so if I am approaching a junction and stop the revs are low if I then try to pull away before its settled as it were it feels like its going to stall rather than rev up (hope that makes sense). If I stop at the side of the road etc then yes I select neutral but if in traffic I need to be in gear..

 

[Canuck]

Do a search for steptoe and coil stick .... bob may be your uncle.


Or... To test your main coil caps pull the plug cap off the lower secondary plugs and see if the engine runs on both sides. Do one side.... re attach... then the other. The side that doesn't fire is the side that's failed.

 

[Pekkavee]

The issue is as I stop so if I am approaching a junction and stop the revs are low if I then try to pull away before its settled as it were it feels like its going to stall rather than rev up (hope that makes sense). If I stop at the side of the road etc then yes I select neutral but if in traffic I need to be in gear..

No you don't have to be in gear in traffic. I, at least, am changing always to neutral when stopping in traffic light or so. It takes one second to put in the first gear. This way you let the clutch relax as well, and your left hand.

Pekka

 

[MikeP]

Steptoe will advise against holding the clutch in for any length of time and that man knows what he's on about.

Now to your issue. Do you have the heated grips on perchance? Or any other high drain on the charging system?

 

[Marlou]

Steptoe will advise against holding the clutch in for any length of time and that man knows what he's on about.

Now to your issue. Do you have the heated grips on perchance? Or any other high drain on the charging system?

Hi
Yes u did have them on setting 2 and my 9w led DLR lights.

 

[MikeP]

Well I think that's your problem.

Today I had a 300 mile round trip on my K1. On the way home, I experienced what you describe, in fact a couple of times it cut-out. I worked-out that the difference between the outbound and homeward legs was that I had the heated grips on. With them turned off the problem disappeared. Give that a try before you do anything else.

I shall be pulling the alternator out of my K1 and investigating.

 

[Steptoe]

I seem to be having a problem with the tick over on my 03 1150GSA, when I stop at a junction etc and clutch in so bike is on idle it seems to dip the rev's down to about 1000rpm and below and the bike sounds like its going to stall (in fact it did today for the first time) which is a pain in the arse and unnerving.

Just wondered if anybody had any thoughts or had the same problem......

As an after thought it seems that it's linked to the braking as once I have stopped and released the brakes the rev's rise back to about 1250/1500rpm. It is the ABS version but they seem to be working fine.


Cheers

First thing i would check are the main coil caps (stick coils). Very common failure, and with the symptoms you describe.

 

[ELIMINATOR]

Your revs rise back to 1250 / 1500? it's idling too fast. 1,000 sounds more like it should be. I had a too fast idle on mine for ages. Steptoe cured it, there was a bit of gravel caught in the throttle drum on one of the throttle bodies.

 

[ymfb]

I had a similar problem on my 2009 K1300S. All was fine until the dealer replaced the switch gear to get the horn working. On the way home the bike just stopped immediately prior to coming to a halt a number of times.

At least four trips to the dealer, new lambda sensor, numerous system re-boots and software upgrades it seems to be fixed.

 

[Marlou]

First thing i would check are the main coil caps (stick coils). Very common failure, and with the symptoms you describe.

Ok I think Steptoe explained how to carry out a check etc on how to sort the stick coils but I have tried the search feature and am struggling to find anything

If anybody could explaind how to carry out the check or use the search facility I would appreciate it

 

[Canuck]

I have already told you.... in my second post...

 

[Bendy toy]

To the point - but the stuff about heated grips is rubbish. They only pull about 4 amps on high - about 50 watts.

 

[skywalker]

Ok I think Steptoe explained how to carry out a check etc on how to sort the stick coils but I have tried the search feature and am struggling to find anything

If anybody could explaind how to carry out the check or use the search facility I would appreciate it

Get the plastic coil puller out of your toolkit. Start the bike and gently pull the coil off the the plugs slightly. You should here a "crackling " noise as the spark jumps from the coil to the plug. No crackling noise equals duff coil.
If that checks out ok allow the bike to warm up and get yourself a can of brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner.
Spray the rubber inlet manifolds (the ones that the throttle bodies attach to)where they attach to the cylinder heads.
Pound to a penny the revs will rise especially the left side where the rubber has gone porous.
DO NOT silicon it up - it doesn't fix it. Buy a new one and clean the gasket surface with some scotchbrite before you fit it.
This is such a common occurence on 1100/1150 bikes I'm surprised its not been picked up earlier.
The leaking manifold problem seems to be finding its way on to some 1200's at the moment and is usually the right one - don't ask me why.

 

[Marlou]

I have already told you.... in my second post...

I did see that and put it in the search but nothing specific came up hence the question, but thanks anyhow.

 

[Canuck]

I did see that and put it in the search but nothing specific came up hence the question, but thanks anyhow.

To test your main coil caps pull the plug cap off the lower secondary plugs and see if the engine runs on both sides. Do one side.... re attach... then the other. The side that doesn't fire is the side that's failed.

 

[warmshed]

To test your main coil caps pull the plug cap off the lower secondary plugs and see if the engine runs on both sides. Do one side.... re attach... then the other. The side that doesn't fire is the side that's failed.

Electronic ignitions do not like the leads being disconnected, best to connect a spare sparkplug to the removed lead and earth it out when doing this test. You may get away not doing so but why take the risk?

 

[Steptoe]

Electronic ignitions do not like the leads being disconnected, best to connect a spare sparkplug to the removed lead and earth it out when doing this test. You may get away not doing so but why take the risk?

I've read this for more than 25 years.
And have yet to meet anyone who's suffered damage from pulling the plug caps for a few seconds while checking.
I've done on an almost daily basis for more years than i can remember without any problems.

The word "checking" is the clue. i.e. not riding around for long periods with a plug lead disconnected.