Stubborn front c/shaft oil seal.

Posh Pete

Posh Pete

Still got a pulse.
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Finally got around to replacing this. I b**gered up the installation of the original when I powder coated the timing case. Checked my records and that was 5 years ago!:eek:

Anyway. Removed the pulley and belt and HES plate, screwed in a couple of wood screws and heaved. Damn near gave myself a heart attack but no joy.

Any ideas?
 
Someone must have a suggestion?

Any suggestions out there? Steppers? Anyone?
 
The oracle has spoken!

Thought you might have a practical tip rather than sorcery Neil. I've resorted to granny's crochet hooks and a big heave with the possibility of knocking a wee puller together if that doesn't work.

Will post when I get the bu@ger out.
 
scotboxer said:
Thought you might have a practical tip rather than sorcery Neil. I've resorted to granny's crochet hooks and a big heave with the possibility of knocking a wee puller together if that doesn't work.

Will post when I get the bu@ger out.
Click to expand...

Persistence will win the day, if all else fails sneak up on it :thumb2

Stewart
 
wot about a wee sliding hammer / dent puller ?? the type that uses a self tapping screw in the end ..:augie:augie .. i used a screwdriver down the side of the metal strenthening ring to deform it and the seal fell out , but i'd be very carefull doing that , serious risk of damaging the casing or shaft :augie:augie
i wrote a post somewhere on how i replaced the seal .. i'll see if i can find it and post a link here :D:D
 
here it is .......

just remember if you powder coat the front engine cover you'll need to replace the front shaft seal which can be a bit of a job, because it's a reverse flap seal . you need to heat the new seal in boiling water to make it pliable then slip it over something the same size as the shaft ,, eg a large socket. offer the socket up to the end of the shaft and slip the seal on with plenty of lube then use the tapered end of a cable tie or similar to run round the inner edge of the seal when it's in position to check that it's seated properly . just dont go poking around the seal with a screwdriver like i did first time round,, costly mistake :augie:augie

hope this helps :D
 
Thanks Kirky

The advice on replacing the seal is helpful but the problem is getting the old one out.

Tried a 2 mm drill in a flexible drive tonight with a view to drilling a starter hole in the circumference of the old seal and then screwing in a self tapper. Bottled out after seeing metal. Somehow I was expecting it to be plastic even tho' logically it must be metal. I also know there's nowt behind the seal so the metal had to be the circumference of the seal but I'm paranoid about damaging the engine case / crankshaft.

Will have a look around tomorrow for a seal puller small enough to slip between the c/shaft and the outer race of the seal.

What damage did you do Kirky? "Lie on the couch and tell ze Doktor all about it ."...

BTW a 35 mm photo film case is the right size for slipping the new seal over the crankshaft.
 
I'd go for it (carefully) with the drill and self tappers. The seal has a metal 'L' section embedded in the rubber with the legs of the 'L' across the front of the seal and the side that contacts the seal housing. As long as you centre punch the seal face and go easy with the drill (light pressure and little bursts of power) you'll be fine. It's important to try out the drill bit and self tapper on some scrap first to make sure they're the right size.

I used just the same technique (twice, don't ask) on my gearbox output seal . The first time was a it scary, but the second was peasy.

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/0ylzlAcD2cGaxCi0eLWxzw?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_SSn2CtCOKnU/ScdTGtQKC4I/AAAAAAAABVA/xw8Jx8LpBDM/s800/matt-02.jpg" /></a>

<a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/qErS-DY_IX1FunCgxwEniQ?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SSn2CtCOKnU/Se4vFhOBMZI/AAAAAAAABn0/ybm6vJkB4Jc/s800/seal3.jpg" /></a>
 
cant you just pull the front cover off and the seal should come with it ?? dont quote me , but im sure the seal sits onto an anular lip on the front casing .. get it onto the bench and make life a bit easier. :augie
 
kirky1298 said:
cant you just pull the front cover off and the seal should come with it ?? dont quote me , but im sure the seal sits onto an anular lip on the front casing .. get it onto the bench and make life a bit easier. :augie
Click to expand...

That does have a kind of bleedin obvious ring to it :thumb

Stewart
 
dont b a pussy man !!! just get in there and get it out ...

just found this on my garage floor

26082009346.jpg


if you look along the bottom edge you can see where i chapped a screwdriver in to deform the seal .. and no damage to the shaft or casing ,, i can confirm that the seal has a thin metal strenthener in the wall .... this will however give way before you damage the casing .. use the smallest flat blade screwdriver that you have and chap it in between the outer edge of the seal and the casing ... when it's in about 5-8 mm simply lever the seal against the casing and it will pop out leaving no damage

26082009349.jpg


this pic is a reverse view of the seal ,, if you look at the bottom you can see what happens when you lever the screwdriver .... the wall of the seal gives way and collapses causing further deformity and the seal pops out due to the levering action .... :D:D :thumb
hope this helps
 
Victory!

kirky1298 said:
cant you just pull the front cover off and the seal should come with it ?? dont quote me , but im sure the seal sits onto an anular lip on the front casing .. get it onto the bench and make life a bit easier. :augie
Click to expand...

I did consider that but it aint that simple. To get the timing cover off you have to pull it forward over the end of the crankshaft. On the 1100, in order to do that, you have to ...

1. Remove the exhaust headers or at least push them forward enough to get clearance for the case to get over the c/chaft.

2. Disconnect the telelever A frame from the engine. This allows the case to be removed without fouling on the A frame.

Anyway, after a bit of careful drilling, I was able to get (magic words coming up) ... a seal puller into the gap and pop the bottom bit of the seal out. I then used a scribe to chase the seal out around the housing - a bit like removing a tyre from a rim.

I replaced the seal using a 35 mm plastic fim container which I split up the side with a stanley knife. (It's too tight for the lip at the base of the c/shaft otherwise.) A plastic Hoover tube was cut down to thump the new seal in. It was just the right circumference. The seal was immersed in hot water first to make it more flexible. A bit of heat on the timing case and a bit of grease and the new seal went in nicely. Gently pull out the plastic film case and job done.

TFFT!

Thanks for all the advice lads.
 
sounds like someone else has a box of 'stuff that could come in useful one day'

couls be the start of a new thread :augie
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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