Stuck in 4th

[brassmonkey001]

A lad I know has got a R80 RT and it's become stuck in 4th gear. I've had a look at Steptoe's excellent thread here and I reckon it's probably a broken spring. Is it a simple enough job just to do the spring? I'm wondering whether to have a bash at it myself you see. He's OK to not have the bike for a couple of months so he's happy to send it away if necessary.
I know it's probably best to give the whole thing an overhaul whilst it's open but I'm thinking just do the spring perhaps.

Rob or Bob, how much would you charge to sort it for him and when could you do it?

 

[Rob Farmer]

Sounds about right. Bloody frustrating when they break.

I've barely got the time to work on my own bikes so wouldn't be able to do it for him I'm afraid.

 

[brassmonkey001]

Sounds about right. Bloody frustrating when they break.

I've barely got the time to work on my own bikes so wouldn't be able to do it for him I'm afraid.

No worries Rob.

 

[Voyager]

Rob or Bob, how much would you charge to sort it for him and when could you do it?

If he's stuck, I could do it . .

Cost would be just parts and postage.

The spring just costs pennies, but the box has to be stripped to change it - then re-shimmed afterwards.

I'd replace all the springs and oil seals as a matter of course, plus any bearings showing wear.

A full set of bearings, springs & seals costs about £160.

As its an 80, it should have had an easeir life than a 100 box, so probably doesn't need a full set of bearings (unless water & grit have got in).

I'll PM you my contact details, you can let me know what you want to do.

Bob.

 

[brassmonkey001]

If he's stuck, I could do it . .

Cost would be just parts and postage.

The spring just costs pennies, but the box has to be stripped to change it - then re-shimmed afterwards.

I'd replace all the springs and oil seals as a matter of course, plus any bearings showing wear.

A full set of bearings, springs & seals costs about £160.

As its an 80, it should have had an easeir life than a 100 box, so probably doesn't need a full set of bearings (unless water & grit have got in).

I'll PM you my contact details, you can let me know what you want to do.

Bob.

CHeers Bob, I'll ask him how he wants to proceed.
I wasn't sure if it would need shimming or not, I haven't really looked into what's involved yet. When I spoke to him the other day he was talking about a special tool for torqueing up the stretch bolts, some kind of crows foot arrangement. Do you know what he was on about?

 

[Voyager]

When I spoke to him the other day he was talking about a special tool for torqueing up the stretch bolts, some kind of crows foot arrangement. Do you know what he was on about?

The four stretch bolts that fix the drive shaft to the output flange are difficult to torque as you can't get a conventional socket on them.

They also have 12-point heads, so a normal Crows Foot (basically an open-ender spanner with a socket attachment) won't fit.

I just use a small ring spanner, lock the back brake and then stand on the spanner . Sounds horrible, but it works for me.

I guess he's talking about a ring spanner head with a short shaft and a 0.5" socket fitting. The torque wrench fits to the end of it, but you have to re-calculate the torque to allow for the extra leverage. I'd need to look that up .

I've not seen anything like that, so it must be a Service Tool - if it exists at all.

I would always re-shim a box that's been worked on, rather than just bung the original shims back in and hope.

There are 'interesting' stories out there about just how far out some of the factory boxes were found to be 'off the shelf' .

Bob.