Swinging arm bearings

[Rusty Bolts]

Due to an inability to refit the front drive shaft gaiter, I had to remove the swinging arm. Whilst there is no perceivable play in the swinging arm when it's all assembled there seems to be considerable play in the bearings when its on the bench. My gut instinct is that as they are sealed bearings that there should be no play both radially or axially; unfortunately I have both.
Is this correct or are they buggered? It's a R1200 GS 07 with 84k miles.

 

[filbe]

Had a 2010 GS ADV with a little over 20k on it, and when the dealer changed the final drive bearing, they also decided to change the swinging arm bearings. With 84k on yours, it must be a wise move to change them, and I doubt you can replicate the forces exerted on those bearings when you're doing 80mph….

 

[Pukmeister]

I had play in my '04 bike, bought new bearings but managed to adjust the originals instead. Chances are that at high mileage you need replacements. I paid about £35 for the pair IIRC.

Also check for sidewards play in the final drive lower knuckle to swing arm joint (paralever arm lower) as the exhaust side is a needle roller bearing which can wear/corrode, it has a felt sealing ring around the trunnion (which doesn't).

 

[Rusty Bolts]

Thanks for the replies so far. It does still have a BMW extended warranty on it but it does not mention the swinging arm bearings. I'll need to check with them about that.
If it comes to it I'm assuming that it's a simple case of drifting out the bearings and pressing new ones in.
Just one final thought, I'm not sure of the type of bearing it is. Looking for replacements it seems that it is a taper roller. If that is the case then the type of play I have would be consistent with a captive taper roller.

 

[Bendy toy]

Won't the swing arm bearings be taper rollers?
But as @filbe says at that mileage it's probably worth changing them anyway.

 

[Rusty Bolts]

Just beat me to it. Bendy, see edited post above

 

[Rusty Bolts]

Also check for sidewards play in the final drive lower knuckle to swing arm joint (paralever arm lower) as the exhaust side is a needle roller bearing which can wear/corrode, it has a felt sealing ring around the trunnion (which doesn't).

Those bearings are all good, no pitting or marking that is normally associated with roller bearings that I can see. The felt seal was a bit discoloured on the outer edge but looked clean and dry on the inside diameter.

 

[Pukmeister]

Swingarm bearings 33 17 2 311 729

Just checked the pair of new spare swing arm taper roller bearings I have (from 2009), part number 33 17 2 311 729. It is possible that they have been superseded by a newer item.

They are sealed on the outer face only and are listed as FAG HUNGARY 18C Z-539816.01.TR1

I would say they aren't the best quality looking at them, and being sealed on one side only could suffer from dirt and water ingress over time.

With the above information it might be possible to cross-reference some from a bearing suppliers at a better price ?

You will also need to either make up an adjusting tool or buy the swing arm adjusting tool 4707 made by LASER tools.


http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?cat=1029&item=4207

 

[Rusty Bolts]

That part No is the same for an 07 GS according to Real OEM. I found these guys http://shop.marksman-ind.com/bmw-r1200gs-2003-2013-swing-arm-bearing-kit-12972-p.asp
Banging them out at £12.72 +VAT or £18.80 posted per set, unable to see if they have seals. They are All Balls Racing components from the USA. Anyone used them before as they seem quite a bit cheaper than the BMW ones.
I have the tool on order but I didn't need it when I re-assembled it on Wednesday. Although it would have been easier and give peace of mind that the adjuster didn't turn when wrestling 145nm Torque on the outer nut!
I have just got to make a proper slide hammer to get the RH bearing out and I'll be go.

 

[Pukmeister]

I have just got to make a proper slide hammer to get the RH bearing out and I'll be go.

Can you post photos of your bearings once removed, I'm curious to see how much they wear (or corrode).

 

[Rusty Bolts]

No problem. Not sure when I am going to do it, should be soon though.

 

[G5RJO]

Good luck pulling the right bearing...

Same issue on my 65k bike. Water ingress via the gaiter F's the right bearing up good and proper. My bearing disintegrated!! Water gets in and drops onto the spinning driveshaft and that sprays it all over the right bearing.

On my bike I couldn't budge the right spigot hub centre and it pulled the threads in the centre of the outer boss when I used the slide hammer on it.

I managed to drop the left side and waggle (good term) the swing arm out. I had to disc cut the inner race off the right stub to get it free.

Don't buy open bearings they'll probably last a fortnight. Crap and water get in them and trash them double quick time and when installed you cant grease them. Put the right bearings in and do the job once. Put open ones in and you'll soon be doing it all over again.

Roger.

 

[Rusty Bolts]

Good points raised Roger.
I got the RH spigot out no problem by using a very long bit of 10mm threaded rod and twatted it from the LH side; it fair flew out! I plan on using a similar method to get the bearings out but with a suitable size socket bolted on the end. Regarding unsealed bearings, Ill speak to the supplier and ask about that. I believe you can get shields on their own but they wont be as good as a proper seal.

 

[Rusty Bolts]

Just spoke with Marksman bearings and the Swinging arm kit comes with seals but they are not bonded to the bearing. So I suppose it is like a shield. Just ordered a kit at £18.80 posted. Ill post up pictures when I get them out.

 

[Rusty Bolts]

Just received the bearing kit. I don't think it's going to fit.

There original bearing is 13.25mm thick and the outer race sits on a shoulder in the swinging arm as far as I can make out. The REPROM says that the bearing should sit flush with the outside of the swinging arm when fitted. Therefore there is no room for the seal supplied.
I spoke to them and they said that the kit supplied is correct and is the all balls racing set. I'm no expert but I have what looks like a very cheap Slovenian taper roller bearing and an oil seal that won't actually fit.
They say it is the right kit for the bike.....I'm not convinced! I have asked for my money back but they say that I have to return the bearing set and they will refund me for the bearing set only but none of the postage.
I would not recommend Marksman Industrial Ltd of Aldershot.

 

[Rusty Bolts]

Well I have replaced the bearings and the next few posts show you what I did. I used the YouTube clip to strip it down so I'll start at the point where the swinging arm is off the bike

I made a mini slide hammer to get the infamous right hand spigot out

The bearings were feeling gritty and the such so I decided to change them.

 

[Rusty Bolts]

To remove the bearings I used a hot air gun to warm up the swinging arm to 80 C as recommended in the REPROM. They came out with minimum effort.

I also used my new blind bearing puller set as well

Whilst the bearing is cooling in the freezer I cleaned up the swinging arm and bearing surface.

 

[Rusty Bolts]

I heated up the swinging arm bearing housing to 80c and took the bearing out of the freezer and it went in using light thumb pressure. The REPROM says that the bearing should be flush with the end of the swinging arm. I checked using a 6" rule.
Whilst it was cooling down I decided to clean around the sub frame

Not doing to bad for 84K miles.
I also put the drive shaft back on. The YouTube clip shows it in place prior to reassembly. I don't have Optimol grease so I used CV moly grease.

 

[Rusty Bolts]

The next bit is to do with the front gaiter/bellows. Fitting this properly seems to be key to preventing water ingress under normal Tesco conditions.
The swinging arm has a groove

That the the plastic clips on the bellows clip into

Hopefully you can just see them.
Next I used red rubber grease to add to the seal and installed the bellows on the swinging arm ready to put it back on.

 

[Rusty Bolts]

Sorry just had to rescue the wife from a large spider invasion!
Gratuitous picture of bellows installed on swinging arm with a red rubber grease teaser.

I found this thread lock that comes in a stick like prittstick

You smear it on the thread in this case the all important left hand adjuster bolt

I used the longest splash guard mounting bolt to line up the right hand spigot bearing thingy. Then used a large soft mallet to twat it home. I gave it all a squirt of ACF 50 as part of the assembly