Switched Live needed that turns off immediately

singcon

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Dear experts, losing the will to live here...
I have a R1200RT LC 2016 and "simply" want to find a live wire that becomes live when the ignition is switched on, and then IMMEDIATELY ceases to be live the instant the ignition is switched off.
All the many live wires I've tested so far (satnav etc) all become live instantly but then wait about a minute AFTER the ignition is switched off to power down.
Any help would be GREATLY appreciated
 
Lights ? There is a tap you can get from the sidelights?

http://www.sportouring.co.uk/?s=Denali It's a bit lower down on this page, you take the sidelight bulb out, plug this harness in and then put the bulb back in the harness as well. No cutting needed.

Not sure if it works on the LC but the tail light is another good bet.
 
I used the rear light feed to power the coil of a relay. It didn't cause any Lin-Bus errors and switches off very soon after the ignition is. Sat Nav feed goes dead as soon as ignition is turned off which I find very irritating.
 
ds99 said:
I would try to tap into the live that goes to the main headlight
Click to expand...

But not tapping into the main beam obviously, as that would be about as useful as tapping into the brake light feed. Though, they do both switch on and off (instantly) with the ignition, so the OP would have at least made a start.
 
Wapping said:
But not tapping into the main beam obviously, as that would be about as useful as tapping into the brake light feed. Though, they do both switch on and off (instantly) with the ignition, so the OP would have at least made a start.
Click to expand...

Better still, an indicator feed for the ultimate cadence power supply!

Not much help to the OP I know :blast

If the RT doesn't have a conventional side light (angel eyes) the I'd plump for the rear light feed to switch the relay :thumb
 
Thanks all for ideas so far.
I'm new to this....what is OP?
Not sure my headlight live will work as the headlight only comes on when the angel eyes are dimmed.
I'll see if I can dig around & find the rear light feed, any ideas what colour wire I'm looking for?
Any thoughts about using air temperature sensor wire?
pS my factory fitted sat nav live wire takes a whole minute to power sown after the ignition is switched off, yet the sat nav recognises that the ignition is switched off and asks if I want to switch off manually?? I don't understand
 
i wired my sat nav into the live that supplies the small DIN "cigarette lighter" socket. it powers down about one minute after the key is turned off, which is fine

it looks like the one of the left here

plug_socket_290x189.jpg


why do you need the power to be cut as soon as the key is turned off? what is the power supply for?
 
I want to hook up the power to a PDM60 and then control all accessories from there. Heated clothing,autocom, dab radio etc... I don't want any accessories running after I turn the ignition off
 
I have a FuzeBlock for any ancillaries, but as I have a full set of heated clothing (socks, trousers. jacket and gloves) have a direct to battery connection. I figure that if I'm wearing the heated suit and get of the bike, I'm not likely to leave it switched on as I'm no longer connected to the bike. It also means the 12v in to the FuzeBlock doesn't need to be the same size as the battery connection to the starter motor (OK I may exaggerate).
 
Again, really helpful thank you.
I've successfully tapped into the rear light power wire which behaves perfectly and switches off immediately the ignition switches off.
I have an LED rear light (2016 RT LC). When the ignition switches on the rear light shines brightly at the same intensity as when the brake is applied. when you start the engine (or after about 20 secs if you don't start the engine) the light reduces to the normal brightness of the tail light without the brake applied..with me so far...All of this is the stock out of the factory behaviour.
So now after hooking my piggy back ignition trigger wire from the rear light feed into a relay the relay energises perfectly and opens the circuit to my accessories, BUT when the light dims to normal brightness or i start the engine the relay cuts power to the accessories.
I'm guessing the relay doesn't get enough power to keep the relay open from the rear light wire when the light dims to normal brightness.
help..please
 
voltage on switched supply is a healthy 12 plus volts with ignition on & 14v with engine running.
It seems what is happening is that when the tail light dims the mysterious Canbus brain senses that the tail light wire is trying to draw too much power. This results in the relay shutting down (not enough power to keep it energised) and the dash shows a rear blown bulb error light (even tho all the led's are lit perfectly)
 
What is the current consumption of your relay coil? It's enough to upset the Lin-Bus system so could you find another with a coil which uses less? The one I used for my spot lamps worked without upsetting the bike. I no longer have the bike or would check it out for you.
 
I know you said you didn't want any items running after the bike was off, but I wired mine up that way and it was fine. I powered a rear camera, two way radio, and a few other items and all go to sleep a short time after the bike is stopped. In fact its quite handy if you just nip off the bike for a second to get something as all accessories stay live just long enough to get back on again and start the bike up.

I took a feed from the rear 12 supply, you can get a dual power outlet from a K1600 and this just plugs in.

You cant use this method if you plan to use a CANBUS 12 battery charger of course.
 
Wire the relay to the auxilary socket but make sure the relay has a protection diode fitted to prevent back emf going into the 12 volt feed. This auxilary feed may become disconnected only upon starting the bike which is better to conserve battery drain when starting, remember a low battery also screws up the voltage required for the ecu and coils, so make sure battery kept fully charged, get an "optimate" can bus friendly battery charger, better and cheaper than the bmw one in my opinion.

Or fit a separate on/off switch with the relay thro a fused wire direct to the battery, and switch off when not required, additionally fit a warning light on the dashboard, simple and effective, damage to canbus ecu is easily done, best to keep things simple.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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