Switched power - The easy way

[Wapping]

Cheers, Bill

All I want to do now is visit BuMW's Parts Department in Battersea to sort out which part numbers for splitters suit each year of manufacture.

Richard

 

[Fanum]

Cheers, Bill

All I want to do now is visit BuMW's Parts Department in Battersea to sort out which part numbers for splitters suit each year of manufacture.

Richard

I'll add that to the Font thread when you've got it...or if it's after this weekend, mebbe you'd let Aidan or Tooned or St Eptoe know and they can amend it 'cos I'm away for another month

B

 

[Monty]

Hi chaps,

Just found this thread as I am looking to install the Autocom on the new bike. Is there any variation of prices between dealers for parts at all? I was just quoted around £23 for the 61 12 7 712 581 and I am not sure if that is a bit steep or if I am just being a tight arse?

Cheers,

Matt

 

[Wapping]

Hi chaps,

Just found this thread as I am looking to install the Autocom on the new bike. Is there any variation of prices between dealers for parts at all? I was just quoted around £23 for the 61 12 7 712 581 and I am not sure if that is a bit steep or if I am just being a tight arse?

Cheers,

Matt

Ring up a couple of dealers and find out. Then add in the cost of petrol / postage should you track down one cheaper and / or return to first dealer armed with your easy won knowledge.

 

[ChasMill]

The part number is 61132316621 and mine cost me a whopping £13.50 plus postage.

My bike is an 04 model so, as said before, this might not fit later models.

Cannot see any reason why a different part number (for essentially the same part) should be more expensive? Call South London Motorcycles ....

 

[Wapping]

Cannot see any reason why a different part number (for essentially the same part) should be more expensive? Call South London Motorcycles ....

Isn't the other part about a metre long, compared with the mighty six inches of the older part? Expensive stuff, wire.

Either way, Monty will no doubt track down the answer.

 

[(RIP) Nakambale]

Hi chaps,

Just found this thread as I am looking to install the Autocom on the new bike. Is there any variation of prices between dealers for parts at all? I was just quoted around £23 for the 61 12 7 712 581 and I am not sure if that is a bit steep or if I am just being a tight arse?

Cheers,

Matt

Just paid £25 inc P&P so sounds about right to me. Not that I've shopped around up here.

 

[Monty]

Just paid £25 inc P&P so sounds about right to me. Not that I've shopped around up here.

Ah, so I AM a tight-arse then!

 

[Wapping]

PART NUMBERS

There are several types of lead according to the year of manufacture and / or the lead's original purpose.

(a) The short lead: 61132316621 BUT CHECK THAT IT FITS YOUR BIKE - BuMW CHANGED THE SOCKETS SOME TIME BETWEEN 04 AND 08.

It is, apparently, a lead that was originally used on the RT, not GS ranges.

I get the impression that there is no short lead alternative for more recently registered bikes.

(b) The long lead:

Basically, this is a much longer lead (it can be shortened, of course) that normally goes from the standard aux socket under the seat to power the optional aux socket on the beak. Again, there have been socket changes.

There are at least two alternative part numbers:

(i) Pre-57 plate: 61127700005

(ii) 57 plate onwards: 61127712581

So, the rule is check that you have the right lead.

 

[brianmaslen]

Some while back I used the BMW splitter to the rear of the under seat socket on my 1200GS to connect to the Autocom and it works just fine, no problem. But now I would also like to run the cable using the long version to the beak area for powering my Tom Tom or charging phone in a tank bag. Can I just add another one piggy backed on to the first or alternatively would it be OK to just run another cable from the first to the beak? I am worried about overloading the circuit?

 

[Wapping]

Some while back I used the BMW splitter to the rear of the under seat socket on my 1200GS to connect to the Autocom and it works just fine, no problem. But now I would also like to run the cable using the long version to the beak area for powering my Tom Tom or charging phone in a tank bag. Can I just add another one piggy backed on to the first or alternatively would it be OK to just run another cable from the first to the beak? I am worried about overloading the circuit?

I can't see why you shouldn't be able to piggy-back off a piggy-back.

As regards overloading. Both sockets (the original aux socket under the seat and the new one on the beak) will both be drawing power from the same single source. Therefore the total draw over both sockets must not exceed 5 amps.

If you do exceed 5 amps the Canbus system will simply fail to safety and switch off the source, re-establishing it when you reove whatever it was that tipped it over the five amp limit. You will not break or damage anything.

Running an Autocom from the rear and a TomTom / phone charger from the beak will not draw more than 5 amps between them. If you want to draw more than 5 amps, it can be done but you will need a relay (see picture).

Why don't you power the TomTom from the dedicated GPS socket, hidden away behind the headstock?

 

[karlp]

This is a very helpful thread.

Where do people mount the bluesea fuse boxes on the 1200 - 'cos there is not much room under the seat.

 

[Wapping]

This is a very helpful thread.

Where do people mount the bluesea fuse boxes on the 1200 - 'cos there is not much room under the seat.

I guess it would go where the tool kit sits, with or without removing the inner tray.

 

[brianmaslen]

Thanks for the help Richard, i had thought about going the headstock route but just easier to plug in especially as I dont have a spare TT lead to hand.

 

[Wapping]

Thanks for the help Richard, i had thought about going the headstock route but just easier to plug in especially as I dont have a spare TT lead to hand.

OK.

 

[Joe narvey]

Deleted

 

[Joe narvey]

Update:

For information the 'Y' splitter referred to above for later bikes ( mine is a 2012) is part number
61 12 7 712 581 and now costs a whooping £31.

Fitting is easy:

Remove seat
Lift out the tool roll
Lift out the tray the tool tool sits on to reveal the rear of the power socket
Press the clip on the side of the male connector to release it from the female power socket body.

Connect the extension cable to the loose lead, connect the male connector to the power socket and you now have a long cable with a socket on the end.

Position the cable for location and then cut off the plug. The striped red cable is now switched live.

 

[Delboy777]

That's exactly what I did two weeks ago.

 

[Joe narvey]

That's exactly what I did two weeks ago.

Sorry, I know I'm repeating what has already been described, but I thought it useful to confirm the cable that works for a 2012 and to provide a photo of the ease of access to the power socket. Really didn't what to vampire tap the canbus.


Where did you mount your fuzebox ?

 

[jonny5859]

Just to add a note this also works for the RT1200 as well


I've just fitted one to my dads 2013 pre LC model using the socket under the pillon seat, just incase any RT owners read the thread..

Where did you mount your fuzebox ?

What all are you looking to run off of it? if its just the likes of an autocom/kenwood setup i just wired into the autocom from the 3 way using crimp bullet connectors as the socket is never going to be used and the autocom/keenwood aint gonna pull 5amps

i have a 12v socket stright to the battery for the likes of the compressor etc