T bit size for rear shock removal, pls?

[meintjiesj]

Need to remove the rear shock, snapped a T50 trying to remove bottom bolt. I am aware now I need to warm it up first but before I try again I want to make sure I have the correct size T bit.

 

[Panos]

Both rear shocks (top and bottom) are M12 so a T55 torx is needed

 

[meintjiesj]

Both rear shocks (top and bottom) are M12 so a T55 torx is needed

Thanks Panos.

 

[schneazle weazle]

Need to remove the rear shock, snapped a T50 trying to remove bottom bolt. I am aware now I need to warm it up first but before I try again I want to make sure I have the correct size T bit.

I did find out when I removed mine putting back together, that they are different lengths, obvious I know but always worth checking and checking again.

 

[Bem]

Both rear shocks (top and bottom) are M12 so a T55 torx is needed

In order to get a bit of heat in to the bolts and free up the threadlock, I chose to heat the bit with a blowlamp and then leave it in place to pass the heat on. Twice over, top was easy and bottom a little harder.

 

[meintjiesj]

I did find out when I removed mine putting back together, that they are different lengths, obvious I know but always worth checking and checking again.

Perfect, thanks that is good advice, I normally try and mark things where they come from but have forgotten to do it and then you are in a 50/50 position. Not good odds when it come to suspension I think.

 

[meintjiesj]

In order to get a bit of heat in to the bolts and free up the threadlock, I chose to heat the bit with a blowlamp and then leave it in place to pass the heat on. Twice over, top was easy and bottom a little harder.

Thanks, I was wondering how I will do it because there could be rubber seals or bushes. Will use that trick.

 

[Boxflyer]

Having just changed my rear shock 2 days ago, I don't think your application of heat on the bolt head will do any good.

It's a M12 Fillister head bolt that is 75mm long, that goes thru an incredible heat sink on the Paralever, then the lower bushing of the shock which is 38mm across, then into about 15mm of thread engagement on the other side of the Paralever.
Using a heat gun directly on the RH side, bottom of the Paralever, where the thread locker is on the threads is the only place where application of heat will do any real good.
As with any application of heat on painted parts on these bikes, monitor the area temp so you don't exceed 100 deg C.

 

[meintjiesj]

Thanks Boxflyer, will try that. Waiting for T55 bit to arrive hopefully before the weekend.

Having just changed my rear shock 2 days ago, I don't think your application of heat on the bolt head will do any good.

It's a M12 Fillister head bolt that is 75mm long, that goes thru an incredible heat sink on the Paralever, then the lower bushing of the shock which is 38mm across, then into about 15mm of thread engagement on the other side of the Paralever.
Using a heat gun directly on the RH side, bottom of the Paralever, where the thread locker is on the threads is the only place where application of heat will do any real good.
As with any application of heat on painted parts on these bikes, monitor the area temp so you don't exceed 100 deg C.