Tapping into auxiliary power under seat

[adventuredon]

Hi all, hope this is not a stupid question, ..trying to fit some aftermarket LED lights. I have seen the posts re using the power and the splitter to tap into the auxiliary power outlet under the seat (not the diagnostic plug). I tapped into this power but without using a splitter (I checked with BMW and they said this was ok), however somewhere along the lines gremlins have surfaced. E.g. the indicator light comes on when I power up. When I power down, the headlight will come on after about a minute.
Do you have to use the splitter? Does it do anything else other than make for a neater install? if its just a a case of the neater install, I will carry on testing other bits

 

[(RIP) Tunneruk]

Do you have a multimeter?

It'll be worth testing what's happening when the ignition feed goes off. Canbus systems can act very strangely if not connected into absolutely 100% correctly.

 

[adventuredon]

hi, Thanks Tunner. No multimeter. I did plug an accessory into the actual aux plug after tapping in and that still shows lights - IOW power is going to the aux power socket under the seat. But could tapping into the wires itself and not using a splitter affect things? Might try to race to BMW to get a splitter but worth asking first. Surely connecting into 2 wires cant make indicators flash when started or brake lights stay on when switched off....

 

[(RIP) Tunneruk]

hi, Thanks Tunner. No multimeter. I did plug an accessory into the actual aux plug after tapping in and that still shows lights - IOW power is going to the aux power socket under the seat. But could tapping into the wires itself and not using a splitter affect things? Might try to race to BMW to get a splitter but worth asking first. Surely connecting into 2 wires cant make indicators flash when started or brake lights stay on when switched off....

Ideally you only need to tap into one of the wires. There will only be one with 12v DC the others will be canbus monitoring hocus pocus. Without a metering device you're kind of going blind. Without a meter, the BMW splitter will be your best friend!

 

[adventuredon]

This might be daft, but looking through this great post again

http://ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180464&page=3

it seems that after the spare plug is cut off there are 4 wires. My current aux has only 2 wires, so surely a splitter would also only have 2 per channel (if thats the right word?), IOW 2 wires to original and 2 to connect to whatever you want now, but 2 pairs are shown. Am I missing something?

 

[Hman]

if you follow the wires back in the splitter, there joined to there respective wires. it just doubles back a little while before the wires exit the loom. i hope that makes sense.


Hman

 

[adventuredon]

Ideally you only need to tap into one of the wires. There will only be one with 12v DC the others will be canbus monitoring hocus pocus. Without a metering device you're kind of going blind. Without a meter, the BMW splitter will be your best friend!

Hi just called park lane and the only guy working today reckons that the splitter Will not work on a 2010 gs. Even though the guy last week said it was just a neatness thing when i showed him the wires! Reckon what you say makes sense and could try just to isolate the 12 v input and make negatives elsewhere and not tapped into. Will have to wait for rain to in away as no garage. Driving me nuts now. Thanks all

 

[adventuredon]

Sorry hman can't visualize where the 4 come from. Me just a visual learner. If i had a litter it would prob make sense. How many wires for each spare leg me a litter ?

 

[Wapping]

On the splitter that fits the 1200GS/A 06 bike (the model I did the job on) there are only two wires for each of the two 'legs'.

A brown sleeved wire

A yellow and red stripe sleeved wire

One 'leg' (made up of a brown wire and a yellow/red wire) gets off to the auxiliary socket. The other 'leg' (made up of a brown wire and a yellow/red wire) goes off to whatever you want to run the power to.

If your splitter has two wires, you are good to go.

 

[Billywhizz]

Hi just called park lane and the only guy working today reckons that the splitter Will not work on a 2010 gs. Even though the guy last week said it was just a neatness thing when i showed him the wires! Reckon what you say makes sense and could try just to isolate the 12 v input and make negatives elsewhere and not tapped into. Will have to wait for rain to in away as no garage. Driving me nuts now. Thanks all

I've read this a few times now and don't think you should be doing anything electrical. Take it to someone who knows what they're doing.......

 

[adventuredon]

Thanks, but the original question still stands. does a splitter just make it neater, or is it abs necessary? If I know this, I can look at other areas where I may have messed up..

 

[skywalker]

Hi all, hope this is not a stupid question, ..trying to fit some aftermarket LED lights. I have seen the posts re using the power and the splitter to tap into the auxiliary power outlet under the seat (not the diagnostic plug). I tapped into this power but without using a splitter (I checked with BMW and they said this was ok), however somewhere along the lines gremlins have surfaced. E.g. the indicator light comes on when I power up. When I power down, the headlight will come on after about a minute.
Do you have to use the splitter? Does it do anything else other than make for a neater install? if its just a a case of the neater install, I will carry on testing other bits

You've obviously done something hideously wrong !! Have you made some sort of subharness for these extra lights ? I'm assuming your switching them through some sort of relay etc ? More info reqd if you need help ie make of lights etc

 

[adventuredon]

Hi Skywalker, cheers. They are lights from Fanum - Cree 5w LED's (so no ballast as such). I have a relay with a one way diode, and this should take power from the aux switch until ignition is on. (I have worked according to Fanums diagram attached) This has a fuseblock that allows me to connect power to accessories (the 1 connected works). I also have a on/off switch that I am hoping will allow my lights be switched on and off so this should sit between device and switched power (i think), but when connecting this it works, but other gremlins surface. one suggestion so far has been to remove the earth from the second switched earth. I am off to try this now. I should also mention that the switch in the diagram has an extra wire (...is the 12v IN, red the 12v switched OUT and black the earth.). Hope this is clearer?

 

[adventuredon]

Ok, my wiring is now included here.
@ Rooster, yes aux lights are shown to be connected in series (illustrators mistake which i will avoid) At the moment I have only 1 mounted to test before neatening up. Light is earthed to battery terminal.
As for other questions, I am blindly following these instructions and the diagram..so if you think a change should be made, I am all ears.
The idea was that the relay draws power from switched auxiliary power, then when ign is on that powers the fuseblock for extra goodies ( as aux power outlet has a max of 5 Amps) so fuseblock has to then get power from other source. Lights are to be wired in via a switch so i can turn them off should i want while bike is running else I could have powered them from dip beam - but that makes them illegal as they need a switch. I think this switch is the troublemaker!

When I connect the lights to the fuseblock, Aux lights come on and go off after a short delay as should. (I think the delay comes from the canbus automatically powering off the aux power as my aux power accessory also switches off at the same time after staying on for a while). So relay and fuseblock appear to work.

When I connect the switch alone( without the lights wired in) switch gets power and can swap between on and off by showing different colour lights. When I power off, it goes to sleep after a delay. All good.

When I then try to add aux light to the switch the gremlins start (indicator flashes, aux lights do come on but then stay on after i turn ign off, BUT then the tail light stays on as well when ignition off). Switch can swap between lights but does nought for powering lights off either! Should say I have swapped the red and white wire from switch between power in and fuseblock power. Same result. Also connected red and white cable to 12v power cable, same result..whenever the light is added to the circuit..

Any ideas?

 

[Deleted account 181015003]

I think this is more like how it should be wired

The canbus should be feeding the terminal marked main beam feed 85 you might have to feed 86 back to the canbus negative for the earth but it should be ok as in the picture.

Take note of where the fuse and switch are in the diagram
Hope this helps

 

[Bendy toy]

@Billywhizz has a point. Working blind on a Canbus bike could easily end in (lots of) tears.

If you don't have a spare fuse, take another feed from the battery to a new fuse box. Link the same ends of all fuses so you can use the outlets for other accessories.

Always use relays to switch the power to any accessories as they are less likely to upset the canbus.

For things like LED marker lights, power to switch the relay can be taken from the tail lamp supply as it comes on with ignition or the dip beam headlight. Main beam is only suitable for long range spots. To be effective LED spots need at least 1200 Lumen.

DO NOT USE SCOTCHLOCKS.
They will either cut the source wire or cause it to break some time later. They are also not weather proof. The only reliable method is a proper wire stripper tool, solder and heat shrink sleeve. For low power it is "possible" to wrap the new wire around the bared source wire and use a tight heat shrink sleeve to trap it down. But it's little better than a temporary fix.

These look reasonable:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ratchet-A...t=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item2575879d37

An electrical multi tester is essential.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-L..._Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item53f1c8bba5

 

[adventuredon]

thanks Steve, its stopped raining now so will head out and give this a go.
Am I correct in thinking then
1) that my fusebox (not shown in your diagram) will be a separate run from the positive battery terminal without going through the relay?
2) My 3 wire switch will be connected to the main beam feed, the negative (either battery or canbus)and the relay?

 

[Deleted account 181015003]

Hi

The fuse needs to be as near to the battery as practically possible your fuse box will be fine the switch is used to operate the relay The relay is to protect the switch from the load of accessories.

The feed to power the coil of the relay terminals 85 needs to come from an ignition switched supply this can be the canbus controlled socket (canbus has a delayed off) or a feed from the existing lighting circuit the recommended feed.

 

[adventuredon]

Brilliant and thanks.
Got it working me thinks..swapped 87 ( the aux lights for the fuseblock) and put the switch as described by above. Lights come on with power, and switch can tunr them off or on. Great. Now will wire the fuseblock direct to positive battery for accessories. Will neaten up tomorrow and post pics...

I think this is more like how it should be wired

The canbus should be feeding the terminal marked main beam feed 85 you might have to feed 86 back to the canbus negative for the earth but it should be ok as in the picture.

Take note of where the fuse and switch are in the diagram
Hope this helps

 

[Bendy toy]

Minor comment. The black wire shown going right back to the battery only needs to go to a suitable earth point on the bike's frame.