Tell me more about taking a 1200 off-road, please.

ExpatinIstanbul

ExpatinIstanbul

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So, I've been convinced that rather than trading my 12 in for something lighter, for some of off-road antics, I should give it a try on the plastic fantastic first. Ok then. But as my experience of off-roading only goes as far as accidentally running off a nice strip of tarmac when cornering with a touch too much gusto, I probably need some advice.

Turn the ABS off, yes, I know. But that's all I know. So what resources are out there on the internetweb that might offer words of wisdom?

This looks useful:
http://www.flamesonmytank.co.za/offRoad.htm

Two things I'm unsure of....1) will I need to drop the pressure in the tyres for light stuff? 2) I've got Ohlin's front and back, and at 16.5st I'm no lightweight, so would there be much benefit in winding them up, and if so are there any similar sized riders that can recommend pre-load and damping settings?

Any general advice would be appreciated. Payment will be in hilarious pics of the results my many foolish attempts at staying upright.

An important question, how many sandwiches should I take?
 
if you've never done off road before then you shouldn't start with a GS - huge, heavy and expensive to fix. Buy something ratty, cheap and light to develop your technique first as you will drop it lots.
 
Don't get too hung up on tyre pressures, suspension etc - if it makes you feel better wind everything down and drop a few psi but at your level (and mine) you won't notice a world of difference.

Practice on fire tracks / gravel roads (ie nice and easy stuff) and learn to be comfortable with the bike moving around under you. Leave mud well alone for now.........actually, on a GS leave mud alone full stop ;)

Practice standing on the pegs as this lowers the centre of gravity and allows the bike to move around without upsetting you so much. It also gives you greater control through shifting weight through the pegs.

Be prepared to drop the bike.

Don't try and save it, you'll hurt yourself :D

Loosen the bar clamps and hand levers a tadge so that they don't break / bend in the inevitable fall.

Be prepared to drop the bike.

Andres

PS But a tatty 125 dirt bike and learn on that :thumb2
 
A 1200 is perfectley capable of gravel roads and firetracks and is great fun when you get confident but keep off the gnarly stuff.

TKC's are a must.

ABS off, keep your nervous fingers away from the front brake on gravel and start slowly until you build confidence.

Also, where you look is where you go seems to be more important off road as I've found out to my cost a couple of times:augie
 
Money money money, I know, everything these days costs but if you can afford it, go and do a days schooling somewhere. You'll have a hired bike, tuition, and if its any good, you'll start from the beginning and learn the good old fashioned basic building blocks. (something small - not BM off road school...)
You'll be dropping their bike not yours, and at the same time you'll be building up your own confidence levels to give that simple fire track a try on your GS at a later date.
It always amazes me that people spend hundreds, thousands of pounds on aftermarket exhaust this, carbon fibre that, but very few invest in further training.
I reckon a couple of hundred quid somewhere will give you a really fun and informative day out, and then you can take it from there. :thumb
 
A few notes I made for Newbies on last years Llangollen ride (might be something useful in there):

Riding a GS Off Road
The GS is big and heavy compared to dedicated off road bikes, but is actually more capable than many give it credit for. The route we’ll ride shouldn’t trouble a GS (but might trouble its rider!).
Stand up – this not only lowers the C of G (weight through pegs not seat) but allows more rider movement (front to back, side to side) to help balance the bike.
General rule is lean back on downhills and forward going up.
When riding tricky sections that require very low speeds it’s easier to sit and have legs ready to “dab” (just watch out for those pots on your shins!).
Don’t follow the rider too closely – leave a good gap between yourself and the rider in front. Gives you time to take avoiding action, pick a better line or find somewhere suitable to stop.
Look ahead – you don’t need to watch your front wheel (it knows what to do), look ahead and pick your line. The further ahead you look the less “hazards” you’ll have to deal with.
Ruts – the GS is in league with gravity, so no matter how hard you try to stay out of ruts, you’ll end up it one. This is no bad thing as you can’t slip sideways out of a rut, so there’s less chance of falling once you’re in one. There’s usually good grip in ruts, especially if there’s flowing water in them. A good steady pace is easier than riding slowly.
It is rare for a rut to be too deep for a GS to ride through. Just watch your toes don’t get snagged though!
It’s when you try to ride a GS sideways out of a rut that tumbles can occur (the front wheel might pop out but the back wont). So, again, look ahead – there will be places to leave the ruts under control. If not then it might be easiest to stop and manually lift your bike out.
Gears – try not to ride in 1st gear all the time, throttle response will be too jerky. Generally ride in high a gear as possible. But again, look ahead and change down early when approaching “hazards”.
Hazards – ie any change of ground or gradient. Most hazards should be tackled with a neutral throttle, eg when approaching a steep hill it’s best to build momentum and then roll up the hill rather than just power up.
Braking – try to ride so you don’t have to (did I mention looking ahead?). 200kg bikes, dual purpose tyres and loose/muddy ground don’t make for quick stops. Whether you prefer the front or back brake they should be used gently.
Assume that you will “lay down” the bike at least once. Please don’t rush to lift it back up, give time for photos, p*ss taking etc and then accept assistance in lifting it (your back will thank you).
Deep water – I wont be leading you through anything too deep (weather dependant), but different routes through puddles or falling off may cause your bike to ingest water. Stop your engine straight away. Then we’ll have some fun emptying it.

:thumb
 
Buying a beat up 2nd bike to practice on is a no no, no money you see. The same applies to training, as it'll mean flying to the UK as there's not much on offer here.....other than the insanely expensive BWM course, which isn't up to much apparently. No, I'm going to have to jump in, use the GS and learn quickly. If I drop it, then so be it. I'm taking the screen off first, and the mirrors, indicators will have to take care of themselves.

The set up on the bike is: TKCs, Pivot Pegz, Rox Risers....so my basketball player height should be fine when standing and the tyres should be ok. But, I have the standard GS, not the Adv, so don't have the tall first gear...is this going to make much difference when farting about? Am I going to need to stay in 2nd and keep the revs up?
 
Listen to your bike! go with what feels right, there are rules and good practices, but by and large don't be too prescriptive. Just go with the flow and look up. LOOK UP.

look up !!!!!!!
 
Some sound advice already given. To emphasize.

When riding in ruts...Look well ahead all the time and choose your exit carefully.

Try to stand on the pegs as much as possible.

Look where you want to go, not at the obstacle you want to avoid. Target fixation and all that.

Dropping your tyres down to 20 psi will give more grip but remember you've done it when you get back on to terra firmer.
 
Spout said:
A few notes I made for Newbies on last years Llangollen ride (might be something useful in there):

Riding a GS Off Road
The GS is big and heavy compared to dedicated off road bikes, but is actually more capable than many give it credit for. The route we’ll ride shouldn’t trouble a GS (but might trouble its rider!).
Stand up – this not only lowers the C of G (weight through pegs not seat) but allows more rider movement (front to back, side to side) to help balance the bike.
General rule is lean back on downhills and forward going up.
When riding tricky sections that require very low speeds it’s easier to sit and have legs ready to “dab” (just watch out for those pots on your shins!).
Don’t follow the rider too closely – leave a good gap between yourself and the rider in front. Gives you time to take avoiding action, pick a better line or find somewhere suitable to stop.
Look ahead – you don’t need to watch your front wheel (it knows what to do), look ahead and pick your line. The further ahead you look the less “hazards” you’ll have to deal with.
Ruts – the GS is in league with gravity, so no matter how hard you try to stay out of ruts, you’ll end up it one. This is no bad thing as you can’t slip sideways out of a rut, so there’s less chance of falling once you’re in one. There’s usually good grip in ruts, especially if there’s flowing water in them. A good steady pace is easier than riding slowly.
It is rare for a rut to be too deep for a GS to ride through. Just watch your toes don’t get snagged though!
It’s when you try to ride a GS sideways out of a rut that tumbles can occur (the front wheel might pop out but the back wont). So, again, look ahead – there will be places to leave the ruts under control. If not then it might be easiest to stop and manually lift your bike out.
Gears – try not to ride in 1st gear all the time, throttle response will be too jerky. Generally ride in high a gear as possible. But again, look ahead and change down early when approaching “hazards”.
Hazards – ie any change of ground or gradient. Most hazards should be tackled with a neutral throttle, eg when approaching a steep hill it’s best to build momentum and then roll up the hill rather than just power up.
Braking – try to ride so you don’t have to (did I mention looking ahead?). 200kg bikes, dual purpose tyres and loose/muddy ground don’t make for quick stops. Whether you prefer the front or back brake they should be used gently.
Assume that you will “lay down” the bike at least once. Please don’t rush to lift it back up, give time for photos, p*ss taking etc and then accept assistance in lifting it (your back will thank you).
Deep water – I wont be leading you through anything too deep (weather dependant), but different routes through puddles or falling off may cause your bike to ingest water. Stop your engine straight away. Then we’ll have some fun emptying it.

:thumb
Click to expand...
I def agree ithink their more than capable of rd, went on the bm course couldnt belive how good they are, admitedly not my bike but ive got much more confidence in mine now, even in the stickest stuff they plough through it, the 1st day i was like a dog on wet lyno the 2nd day i was much better all in all very good.:thumb:
 
My last 08 GSA went just about anywhere i dared to point it.
My new 2010 GSA will be going the same places....OFFROAD..:thumb2

I havent done any of the BMW offroad courses, i have riden motorbike for many years. The way i see it is you are going to drop the bike. If your on a GS it is know where near as heavy to lift as a GSA especially with a full tank of juice.

Both bikes the GS & GSA are capable offroaders, just go steady. Most important look ahead, not like some people who look directly in front of themselves. You need to look where you are going, your brain will remember what it has seen and the bike will go where you look. If in ruts dont try and steer out, nine times out of ten the bike wont climb the rut and the front wheel will snap round causing you to fall off. Also if it does climb and you not on the power or have the room, stop and roll it back in the rut and start off again. otherwise it might grip and send you for a fall.

Relax your arms and legs, let the bike do the work.

Check out these couple of video`s on you tube.

One is Ben aka Motorhead, One awesome guy, sadly pasted away last year. He loved to offroad his gsa. Im the last bike in the video. Also one from my helmet cam when i rode with a group of guys off this forum, doing the water lane step.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rsvUa6u0QBA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vR4yhRSXz4I

The bike is capable of alot, just ride it steady, get a feel for how it behaves on different terrain...and most important..ENJOY IT.:thumb2
 
I took my GSA off road for the first time a few weeks and am going again this weekend. I too read pointers on the flamesonmytank website which I found quite usefull but don't try to remember it all, just the basics are enough for the first time out.

I thought it wise to spend a bit of time on some flat ground before I headed out to practice picking the bike. I also walked around the bike (without the stand down) holding on to it and mounting from both sides just to get comfortable handling it. I figured its better to try it all this on flat ground rather than trying to do it for the first time on some unfriendly terrain.

Knobblies are a must and make sure you take a friend :comfort

Oh, one other thing only fill your tank with what you need as its only extra weight you're gunna be busting your ass to pick back up when ya drop it.
 
I have done some gnarly stuff on my 1200, dropped it a couple times, with no real damage. I found that it just was a matter of riding the rough stuff and not being afraid of wrecking the Bike. I was really amazed at were I could take my GS.

Rather than beat the crap out of the Bike, I also bought a 530 KTM a couple of years ago that is street legal. It's a lot more fun off road and it takes a pounding. Not to mention it's half the weight of the GS.

<a href="http://s19.photobucket.com/albums/b168/Rick3690251/?action=view&current=2008_ktmblack.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b168/Rick3690251/2008_ktmblack.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


<a href="http://s19.photobucket.com/albums/b168/Rick3690251/?action=view&current=2008_1203test0003.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b168/Rick3690251/2008_1203test0003.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
Get used to using the rear brake a lot more.

If it's dry (likely in turkey?) take plenty of water - it's hot work!
 
Some interesting stuff here. I have a trials bike for serious off-road stuff but I intend to do a bit on the new 12GS,as soon as it's had it's 1st service and some engine bars fitted. Nothing too drastic,just gravel roads,fire trails etc.
What are the first things to get trashed in a low speed slide off?
Unless I'm camping I'll leave the Vario's at home and strap a roll-bag to the rack. I've ordered a driveshaft crash bung and a folding gear lever.The bars have hand protectors so they should stop the levers getting snapped off. What else is vulnerable?
ABS.....why switch that off?
ASC......set to Enduro and ESA also set to offroad. Do they make that much difference?
What about the positioning of the handlebars? Has anyone turned the risers around to place the 'bars a bit further away and is that better when stood on the pegs?
I'm on EXP's btw and I'd like to stick with them,unless there's anything better for dual purpose use.:)
 
Tw@features, be sure to turn your ABS off: Imagine riding down a steep hill covered in gravel. When you hit the brakes at the bottom, the wheels lock instantly on the gravel then release due to ABS, apply, release, apply etc etc. Basically you would have no brakes due to the ABS. The same scenario without ABS requires you to be more progressive on the brakes to prevent lock ups (unless deliberate) but at least you can stop.

Tourances are fine in the dry, but not much good in the wet when offroading as the tread clogs up making them slick.
 
always well okay if you can go in a small group for the simple reason when you stuff in...:blast it's easier to ask for help. Than getting the help of some old coffin dodger, who then laughed his bolox off at my misfortune...:augie

Also it's not an essential but if it's really muddy you may want to consider changing the front mudguard to give more clearance.
 
Take it easy!!!

I must say that the idea of starting to ride OFF ROAD on a GS sounds pretty daft, whether you are rich or ,poor. I learn t on Army bikes and they frequently ended up 'BLR' - beyond local repair, which meant they went back to central workshops for a complete rebuild. If you are determined, first of all lay the bike on its side and make sure that you can pick it up again from either side. Just look in the Touratech catalogue and see the vast range of extras available (at a price) to protect your bike off road. You won't need them all, just one or two BUT which ones you may well find out the hard way.
I reckon that the damage from one poor off road session may well cost you more than a S/H trials bike - that's the sensible way to start.
 
HI,
I have read this thread with interest as I am wanting to take my GSA offroad, only light stuff though as I can't afford to keep swapping tyres to nobblies.

As I have had very very little off-road experience ( a kiddies trail bike for about 2 hours when I was 9 or 10, and 30 mins on an enduro bike after which I came off and injured myself about 6-7 years ago before I knew how to ride a bike) I am booked on a days 1-2-1 off road training day with overlander trail tours in 3 weeks.
http://www.overlandertrailtours.co.uk/

Assuming that I am of average standard for a beginner do you think I would be capable of going off-road on my GSA after this day, or would I still need more training/experience?
Cheers.
 
That :mmmm looks interesting,let us know how you get on.


I think that, out of a sense of common decency, the original poster should go thrash the tits off his 1200 around some Turkish quarry,desert or Byzantine enduro site and post up some before/after photo's of his bike.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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