Testing a Relay

[(RIP) maverick]

Hi chaps,

I am for the life of me trying to figure out the electrical problem on my G/S

Bought a new starter relay recently, plugged it in and all worked fine. I tested it two or three times and no problems. Put the front cover back on the bike and the starter motor cover and left the bike a few days. Chad popped over one evening and wanted to show him the bike and fire it up. Connect the battery again, switch it on and nothing

The front light and rear parking light goes on when I switch the bike on. Besides that nothing else. No neutral/oil/horn/starter button working

So my first guess is maybe this relay popped due to another problem when I tested it the first time around so want to test it first.

There are a couple of numbers on the relay and according to what I make out from Haynes:

30 - power from the battery
87 - negative from the starter motor and solenoid
85 - runs to the starter button
86 - runs to the clutch switch
86b - runs to the neutral switch (haynes gives it as 86a, motorworks supplied relay with 86b?)

How do I test this relay without damaging it?

I have just check the following:

With the ignition on:

12.7v on the starter and solenoid
12.7v reading on the +- of the starter relay
12.7v reading on the +- of the lighting relay

Continuity on all the wires from the starter relay to the starter button/clutch/neutral switch

Thanks

 

[Greg Masters]

How do I test this relay without damaging it?

Thanks

• Measure resistance between 30 & 87. Should be infinite.
• Apply 12v across 85 and 86. Resistance above should drop to zero
• Apply 12v across 85 and 86B. Resistance above should drop to zero

The purpose of wiring to 86 and 86B is so that the relay will throw if either the bike is in neutral or the clutch is disengaged.

Greg

 

[(RIP) maverick]

• Measure resistance between 30 & 87. Should be infinite.
• Apply 12v across 85 and 86. Resistance above should drop to zero
• Apply 12v across 85 and 86B. Resistance above should drop to zero

The purpose of wiring to 86 and 86B is so that the relay will throw if either the bike is in neutral or the clutch is disengaged.

Greg

Thanks for the info Greg

Measure resistance between 30 & 87. Should be infinite. --> This is the reading I am getting

Apply 12v across 85 and 86. Resistance above should drop to zero --> Relay clicks and resistance drop to zero
Apply 12v across 85 and 86B. Resistance above should drop to zero --> Relay clicks and resistance drop to zero

Damn so am I right to say the relay is working fine it is something else.......

 

[Greg Masters]

Should I put a +- jumper on those two different pins from a battery and does it matter which way around?

Yes. Polarity shouldn't matter for a bench test.

Greg

 

[(RIP) maverick]

Backwards and forwards between the garage and house.

Relay checked and it seems to work fine.

I have hit a bit of a wall now as I am not sure what else to check. New diode board fitted, new relay. Continiuty checked between most wires. Checked all connectors and connecting blocks.

Could the alternator or rotor cause any problems like this? I have not taken those off or apart to check yet? I had to pack everything away now as my R100T is due for MOT at 15:00

Really frustrating sitting with this lovely bike and the bugger won't play along

 

[bumpmuncher]

urm it may be worth having a look through this thread http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=200239 good luck

 

[cristhemuso]

Ideas on no start

Seems too obvious but I have had several batteries die by internal plates warping and shorting over night. Symptom is no ability to deliver any current at all. When you hit the started does the battery voltage drop below 10 volts?
Also check battery is earthed to frame really good and tight.
As a general rule, in my opinion, electrical problems are more often to do with poor earthing than anything else. Check all earths first.

Then check 12v is reaching the low power side of the starter solenoid.
Also recall my valeo starter had corrosion on commutator so when the starter stopped in certain positions it would not start up again. A sharp tap to cover with socked wrench usually got it going with starter button pressed. I then took it off and cleaned it. Yes they do come apart with a bit of persuasion.
Good Luck

 

[cristhemuso]

Check the fuses under the LH side panel.

Have you checked the fuses?

Sorry to ask.

Cris

 

[(RIP) pastyman]

another "stupid" suggestion but so often causes a problem. Have you inadverdently moved the Kill button. I onve had guys pushing me around the car park for ages before I noticed

 

[(RIP) maverick]

Guys I have checked the following:

Earth and battery good and 100%
Kill switch checked
Fuses - it only has two fuses both which are fine and checked
New Diode board
New Starter Relay
The Starter Motor turns over fine and did do when I fitted the new starter relay. The moment I put everything back together it stopped working again.

I am getting 12volt on the +- on the starter relay. It does not seem to "distribute" or do whatever it is supposed to do to get that current to the starter button, neutral light and basically all the idiot ligths are not working.

I am not sure how much power the ignition relay needs to switch but there are 12.7 volt on the terminals of the relay measured. Does the coil or something else need to charge up or provide further power to the instrument lights?

 

[PW Cymru]

Can you hear the starter relay click when you press the starter button.

 

[newguy]

maybe it dies when you put it back together because there is a break in the starter wire. Maybe when you put the tank on it presses against the culprit wire

 

[(RIP) maverick]

Can you hear the starter relay click when you press the starter button.

No nothing and that would be because the problem is no power reaching the starter button or any of the other stuff around the handlebars i.e. lights from what I can gather.

This was the picture I took right after I replaced the relay. None of those lights come on now

 

[fayeslane]

maybe it dies when you put it back together because there is a break in the starter wire. Maybe when you put the tank on it presses against the culprit wire

I'm thinking something along these lines too -have you checked that no wires have been dislogded, crimped, severed etc ?

BTW I hate auto electrics

 

[(RIP) maverick]

OK idiot award of the year goes to.......................

After posting this picture above something odd striked me immediately - the position of the key

I took both silver keys out to the garage a couple of moments ago and guess what - yes the one actually turns one click further than the other one and switching the bike on

What a maroooooooonnnnnnnnnnnnnnn

All sorted now

 

[bumpmuncher]

ah the oldest and most common problem; the nut that connects the handlebars to the seat

 

[(RIP) maverick]

 

[fayeslane]

Don't worry mate, we've all been there



















The difference is you admitted it publicly

 

[(RIP) maverick]

Don't worry mate, we've all been there
The difference is you admitted it publicly

Another mate of mine said better make up a really good story about how you had to splice the loom and replace several pieces of wiring etc etc. It is things like this that others can learn from.....I hope

Think about it everybody had tips and suggestions nobody ever suggested the ignition

I am so looking forward to get this bike back on the road now it is not even funny

 

[fayeslane]

You're right, posting here reminds us all to step away from the problem, assume nothing, then check everything no matter how basic. Lots of us have been caught out by the kill switch syndrome, no fuel etc etc

Going thru the same impatience with my PD -a mix up with parts has added 3 weeks to the down time. It is spring here and a bloke should be out riding.