Cheers Mike - looks like we have the same “blue roll” habit. I’m getting through about a km a week of the stuff.
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The ‘79 California Rebuild Thread
- Thread starter Nin
- Start date
Here’s a few pics of the next stages.
Get the oil breathers in, new crush washers of course.
There she goes. It’s tricky getting a bent shaft into a straight hole. Ooer.
Line up the marks you scribed on the flywheel and crank before you took it apart. You did remember to do that didn’t you?
Then out with Sealey’s finest torque wrench. I mark them as I torque them so I don’t forget.
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Get the oil breathers in, new crush washers of course.
There she goes. It’s tricky getting a bent shaft into a straight hole. Ooer.
Line up the marks you scribed on the flywheel and crank before you took it apart. You did remember to do that didn’t you?
Then out with Sealey’s finest torque wrench. I mark them as I torque them so I don’t forget.
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Con rods in next. I’m always a bit nervous about this stage.
.
Keep an eye on that milled face ...
Lube them up with the assembly grease - in this case high moly content lithium grease. It’ll protect against that first 30 seconds of start up.
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. Keep an eye on that milled face ...
Lube them up with the assembly grease - in this case high moly content lithium grease. It’ll protect against that first 30 seconds of start up.
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Wait, what?
Bugger.
That’s better
34 lb ft for these
The organ is back in the cathedral.
Don’t forget to wind the torque wrench back to zero to ease the spring.
And a gratuitous cam chain shot to end.
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Bugger.
That’s better
34 lb ft for these
The organ is back in the cathedral.
Don’t forget to wind the torque wrench back to zero to ease the spring.
And a gratuitous cam chain shot to end.
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That’s as far as I can go now until I get some more parts. On to these jobs tomorrow.
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Lubb Futs of torque? How quaint 
Split pins or lock wire for those castle nuts?
Split pins or lock wire for those castle nuts?
I know, it’s proper 70s. The nuts are like Aerotight - self locking without a nylon insert.
Just back from the polishers with the downpipes, gear change and rear brake. Come up very nicely and a steal at £40 - considering he also did the balance pipe.
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Just back from the polishers with the downpipes, gear change and rear brake. Come up very nicely and a steal at £40 - considering he also did the balance pipe.
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And some parts. We replace the one on the left with the one on the right.
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Oops, hang on, there’s the doorbell ....
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That’s a big one.
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Here’s a few pics of the next stages.
Then out with Sealey’s finest torque wrench. I mark them as I torque them so I don’t forget.
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Thats an old school aircraft engine assemblers trait
I remember doing that on 500 studs on which i had to pull test, for a project some years ago.
The lead engineer, a young lad, keen but green, dropped the paperwork pack on my desk for sign off, was quite surprised when i rejected his torque testing of the studs
I asked how he had conducted the test, as i expected, it was "i put a torque wrench on the studs and torqued them to the specified torque"
What he'd failed to spot by not reading the fixing method of the studs, was that they were fixed using a process called stud welding .
Basically you put the stud into a chuck and apply a current through the main part and the stud, and similar to spot welding it fuses the stud to the base material
But to check the strength of the weld, the requirement was that you apply a linear force, ie pull the stud, not a rotational force,
I got some additional parts made so we could recheck all 500 studs correctly,
The lad asked "why are you marking the studs, they passed"
I explained , with 500 studs to check, marking them confirms i've checked each one, otherwise you have to go back to the beginning if you miss one, and if you have one that fails, it's easier to spot
luckily they all passed
Nice story Santa. I do hang out with retired Eng types, and work on the club aircraft for the past 10 years has clearly rubbed off.
Although to be fair I learned that trick working in the Kawasaki Exeter workshop as a teenager.
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Although to be fair I learned that trick working in the Kawasaki Exeter workshop as a teenager.
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Back to the parcel - what treasures lie within?
New luggage - need to get that to the paint shop.
A new rear rack, about 1/3rd the price of getting the original rechromed. Bonkers.
Same for the engine crash bars
New discs all round
And loads of other little bits. Looks like a busy weekend ahead.
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New luggage - need to get that to the paint shop.
A new rear rack, about 1/3rd the price of getting the original rechromed. Bonkers.
Same for the engine crash bars
New discs all round
And loads of other little bits. Looks like a busy weekend ahead.
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Right we’re forging ahead tonight. First it’s the forks:
Luckily it came with new tubes, I found some affordable new springs and the cassette dampers are very good value, so it’s practically new suspension up front.
Oil is just to lube it all so weight isn’t really an issue. I had some of this so that’s what I used, 60 ml in each side.
Let’s put those away for a bit.
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Luckily it came with new tubes, I found some affordable new springs and the cassette dampers are very good value, so it’s practically new suspension up front.
Oil is just to lube it all so weight isn’t really an issue. I had some of this so that’s what I used, 60 ml in each side.
Let’s put those away for a bit.
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What next? Waiting for a couple of bits before I can close up the timing chain chest, so let’s get cracking on the other end - get the clutch in.
First line up the base plate
Then new springs
Clamp it down with the home made tool
Pop the plate, intermediate, second plate and ring gear on. Then torque it all up.
Now she’s sleeping. Time to tidy up, have a beer and contemplate the gearbox.
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First line up the base plate
Then new springs
Clamp it down with the home made tool
Pop the plate, intermediate, second plate and ring gear on. Then torque it all up.
Now she’s sleeping. Time to tidy up, have a beer and contemplate the gearbox.
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BTW yes I did measure the clutch plates - 0.01mm under new spec (8mm) so I think they’re good for a bit.
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Feckin hell Nin,great work,about time you chilled out with a beer mate....don't want this thread to finish too soon
Kimbo
Kimbo
It’s Saturday, so it must be gearbox day.
I’ll start by unwrapping everything from its oil soaked blue roll, and making sure it’s all clean.
Then heat the case and tap the bearings in.
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I’ll start by unwrapping everything from its oil soaked blue roll, and making sure it’s all clean.
Then heat the case and tap the bearings in.
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These bearings have a groove cut in one race (at 2:00 in this pic) to fit the balls in when they’re made. That should face into the case.
Tap them in then I load them up with assembly grease.
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Tap them in then I load them up with assembly grease.
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