The Bit In The Middle (France 2014)

[Dean]

The bit in the Middle.

5 Days into France commencing Friday 2nd May 2014, two bikes, Chad on his 1150 GS and me on the F800GS.

The end of the day accommodation was pre booked with the route loosely planned but made up on the day depending on the need to push on with motorway tolls or avoid them.
For the most the mapped routes attached only have the start and finish as a given, the bit in the middle was a kind of stumbled upon and made up on each day.

Before forgotten here follows some pictures and a few notes

 

[Dean]

Day 1. From deepest Essex via the Chunnel to Dijon. (492 miles)



https://mapsengine.google.com/map/edit?mid=zvY9SPQmGEOg.kLaLeNCn3xbI&authuser=0&hl=en



Boarding the train at Folkestone, and we’re off






After a fuel and coffee stop French side we was off to our first destination being the Reims-Gueux Circuit, the old stands, pavilion and pit lain buildings are still in place.









Reims-Gueux (1926–1951) or Reims (1952–1972) was a triangular motor racing road course near Reimsm France which hosted 14 French Grands Prix





Reims-Gueux was first established in 1926 on the public roads between the small French villages of Thillois and Gueux. The circuit had two very long straights between the towns, and teams strove to maximize straight-line speed of their cars; many slipstream battles ensued. Back in the day race organizers actually felled trees and demolished old houses in order to make the circuit even quicker.




Back in the day.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oMgX3tn_CpY



After leaving Reims the sat nav was set to avoid motor way and tolls, which lead us through countless vineyards of the champagne region through Epernay stopping briefly at Sezanne for Le Mcdonald’s then a slow hall to Dijon passing through many villages and hamlets. The rain seemed to chase us or we would arrive after it had down poured we was fortunate not to ride through it.













In Dijon our room for the night was the Ibis budget.







Our cell for the night was sufficient.





A short walk down the road was a nice restaurant with good food and a few cold beers finished the day off nicely

 

[chad]

nice start dean , im still uploading and trying to sort my pics but will contribute as soon as ive sorted them

 

[Dean]

Day 2. From Dijon to Sisteron (296 Miles)


https://mapsengine.google.com/map/edit?mid=zvY9SPQmGEOg.k6gIaf3RKA2M&authuser=0&hl=en


After our continental breakfast at the Ibis it was time to leave Dijon the weather was not looking good, a grey morning of incoming cold rain.



As the roads got higher and the clouds got lower the morning became a thick pea soup, freezing mist, which was a shame because I knew the scenery was getting better and better as we progressed on to Grenoble and the Route napoleon.



Only one thing for it to slip into some of France’s culinary heritage, La Grand Big Mac meal . The place was packed, it seems like every road user had wanted a rest from staring into the Greyness



On our way again the greyness was not letting up…………………… until Chad detoured through a tunnel, coming out the other end to blue skies with the added bonus of losing the traffic , the roads were empty. The D526 from near La Mure to the north starts by a bridge over a narrow deep gorge where they do bungee-jumping. Well that's where the fun starts - about 10km on a narrow-ish road with cliff on one side and a stone-wall on the other, but with fantastic corners just designed to flip a bike from one to the other.
A stop to catch a breath at pont de ponsonnas over the river, Le Drac and The bungee cord dangles waiting for the thrill seeker.

Stuff that for a game of soldiers.





Grey skies turned to blue as we progressed through the terrific and some rugged scenary what appeared at times to being the middle of nowhere, but in the middle bit somewhere.











Stopping for the odd road side brew of a fresh mug of coffee




Seemed to be quad bike land, a few on tour here. (note the limp wristed wave)







An old Cournil ready to make some dust, Here’s to Bernard cournil the oldJeep farkler






Always time for a another brew.

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

Great pics

 

[Dean]

Arriving in Sisteron



The Sisteron citadel perched on the rocks. We was drawn to go up to take a closer look.





The fortress includes a medieval walkway and chapel plus four bastioned terraces that face the town.




It was well worth the climb of all the steps to the high walls with almost endless wind.




The Devils Watch tower, dates from the 14th and 17th centuries and overlooks the Durance river. Legend has it that the mason who built it sold his sole to the devil, hence the name








La Baume limestone rock towering above city of Sisteron





The Citadel of Sisteron towers 1500 feet above the city being flood lit at night.




Then on to our hotel for the night the Sisteron ibis








The restaurant being attached to the Hotel was a welcome and a short walk to the chilled beer, the cabaret was provided by the French cyclists who took centre stage, standing up and protesting that their bikes should not have been moved to make way for the three Swiss owned Harley’s.
The Swiss defence was it was the hotel manager that was the culprit insisting and moved there pedal power to make way for the American Hogs.

Impasse


The silence after the cyclist rant in the restaurant gave me time to savour my starter the local specialty: Lamb and pig’s Pate (when in France.. )




Chad had played safe with the warm goats cheese salad . But leaving room for some more cold ones in the company of the Swiss bikers.

In the morning it was the usual continental breakfast and a few pictures before the off.

The cart lodge along with some heavy and some old metal.



The switchback




A Road king



Electra glide (French pedal power placed in the corner )



A nice French owned Moto guzzi California




I like the hogs, one day…….

 

[Tricky]

Bloody Hogs get everywhere.

Nice RR.

 

[chad]

a few pics form me , from first and second day

reims




even had a hitch hiker


scuse big feckin fingers in shot



second day heading over the route Napoleon to sisteron







cracking ride





Sisteron kinell thats a hike to the top



ugly mug shot at the top



that is one hell of a view from the citadel ole bonapart would have struggled to sneak up on it



and for the record my Goats cheese salad was very nice

a great evening was had with the Swiss Harley riders drinking whisky and taking the piss out of the cyclists

over to you Dean

 

[Dean]

Day 3. From Sisteron to Millau (244 Miles)

https://mapsengine.google.com/map/edit?mid=zvY9SPQmGEOg.kL8nGEGNZHkQ&authuser=0&hl=en


After a light continental breakfast we was on the road early with like minded people




This turned out to be the route of the fruit with the miles upon miles of fruit farms netted fruit tree’s changing to, vineyards, olive tree’s back again to fruit sprinkled with the odd lavender farm as our route took us towards orange (you know just above chateauneuf-du pape) , then Ales to Florac following the D907 through national parks to the ever stunning Gorge Du Tarn.







Stumbling across the occasional outdoor type





And the local on his quad with his best friend.

[/URL
]

[URL=http://s989.photobucket.com/user/F650GSPuma/media/F14/IMG_8316_zps9585c3bf.jpg.html]








Castelbouc, D907, Gorge du tarn
According to legend the name dates from the Crusades: a nobleman who remained at home wore himself out satisfying women whose husbands were away fighting. He died of exhaustion and his soul in the form of a goat (bouc) was seen to rise above the castle. Its ruins are atop a 60m-high rocky outcrop rising above a little village, the houses incorporating the geological features into their foundations. A powerful spring bursts from underground at three points (two in a grotto, one in the village).





La Malene on the D907, Gorge du tarn









View of the above La Malene Bridge, as we climbed up the canyon on route.








The Millau viaduct on our approach down in to the town.





Our room for the night was at the Millau Ibis, with balcony views over the old town.




The bikes tucked in for the night, indoors and gated.




The restaurant of our choice was next door, cold beers and steaks all around and a little salad, with the odd drop of French red wine of course (when in France)




For desert Crème Brulee




Back to the hotel for a couple of shorts and that was about the day

 

[Dean]

Thanks to all for the nice comments

 

[Nutty]

Nice report and cracking pictures.

 

[Davy F]

Very good. Hopefully I'll be on some of those roads in July.

 

[Dean]

Nice report and cracking pictures.

Thanks

Very good. Hopefully I'll be on some of those roads in July.

thanks , and what cracking roads they are


Stay tuned Davy, when we get to Day five we pay our respects to the 36th

Just awaiting for chad to upload some cracking pictures following my days, he will be along soon his camera is a BMW btb

 

[(RIP) andrewgsadv]

Good report, some good pictures many of places me and the Mrs have visited. Made me want to get me moped back on the road and gonna ride ride ride. Austria trip in August but feel an impromptu trip coming on.

Thanks for posting both of you. Awaiting next bit

 

[chad]

a few more pics from me this was a stunning days riding



complete with the I see no ships pose



the ride up to that point was extremely pretty



once at the top we we had some fun with some french sports bikers on some more open road , im thinking they will still be talking about the crazy Rosbiff on knobbly tyres chasing them though the hills

then we found this lovely stretch on route to the gourge du tarn



bloody hell it was nice to ride



im sure it was this bit dean could confirm all these squiggly lines merge into one for me






a great days riding followed by a big feed and stroll around Millau

 

[Dean]

once at the top we we had some fun with some french sports bikers on some more open road , im thinking they will still be talking about the crazy Rosbiff on knobbly tyres chasing them though the hills

I think that must have been the first Sunday in the month bike meet, getting amongst 70 + bikes was an experience , watching 6 of the lead bikes attacking a right hand hairpin was interesting to say the least , then again seeing your eleven fiddey has sports mode and sparking panniers was an eye opener

 

[Dean]

Day 4. From Millau to Le Mans, via Oradour Sur Glane (427 miles)

https://mapsengine.google.com/map/edit?mid=zvY9SPQmGEOg.kF3-LniliTaQ&authuser=0&hl=en



After a light continental breakfast. it was off to the viaduct. (note to self never park close to or over large deposits of pigeon droppings)


Millau viaduct is the tallest bridge in the world with one mast's summit at 343.0 metres (1,125 ft) above the base of the structure. It is the 12th highest bridge deck in the world, being 270 metres (890 ft) between the road deck and the ground below

After fascinating with the mighty stunning bridge and some pictures underneath


















It was time to leave Millau and at at 10.30 am we looped around and rode over the viaduct heading up to our next destination Oradour sur glane, toll roads was our opted route to make time and cover distance not much to report on the way up, just observing the road craft the French lane discipline indicators flashing for overtake and then back in, the native buzzards soaring and circling in the blue sky or sitting on the fence posts by the road. Now and then a Frenchman driving Gordini style 90 MPH + up your chuff , one hand on the wheel seat reclined to the max (yes he owns the road)
Petrol stations generally every 20 K with some OK coffee or the sprinkling rest areas of the aires du whatever for a rest bite.


We arrived in Oradour a little late for lunch, a nice lady in the local pattiserie saved the day, a small quiche and some pastries (when in France ) washed down with a diet coke.

Oradour Sur Glane





The thought provoking statue of the burning pregnant lady.







The original population was destroyed on 10 June 1944, when 642 of its inhabitants, including women and children, were massacred by the German Waffen-SS company. A new village was built after the war on a nearby site but on the order of the then French president Charles de Gaulle the original has been maintained as a permanent memorial and museum.




The entry to the village is free, payment only required for entrance to the museum but the whole thing never fails to move me, they say the silence is deafening leaving you somber and cold. The less people in the village the colder it feels.

























The melted church bell. Stirs emotion






After leaving Oradour it was a long slog up toll roads to our final night in Le Mans.

More circling Buzzards.




Our hotel is the Ibis Lemans on the banks of the river Sarthe.






The hotel had the best secure parking that we experienced with coded entry.






The separate rooms gave rest bite from the un-synchronized chain saw snoring melodies.




Our very short stop over gave us a small glimpse of the old and new of the city.














The Last Supper:

Having a lot to reflect on and indeed our final day to plan loosely the middle bit , we needed a fair amount of food and drink. Our last evening meal in France our choice of restaurant was La Tavern Des Arts





A few cold beers hit the spot, Followed by: Home-made duck foie gras and its fig chutney





Then: chateaubriand and fries, with a salad on the side





All washed down with a nice red. (when in france)







Desert was : profiteroles vanille for chad




For me the Éclair au Caramel




A couple of shorts and then a wobble back to the great Ibis for a few more shorts, now that sealed the day

 

[Davy F]

Terrific Ibis hotels look the way to go for the 'wing it' days of my trip.

 

[Popell]

Excellent report, bringing back many happy memories - must visit Oradour next time

 

[Nutty]

A great report, I enjoyed that. Glad to see some food pictures at the end!