The Power Commander Files.

Nick V

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I installed a Power Commander 5 on the ’09 Hexhead this weekend.
First notes:

1. The Autotune module installation will have to wait until I can get the headers off, and that will have to wait until I can source two exhaust flange gaskets from BMW (probably this evening). The wide-band Lambda sensors which are part of the Autotune kit don’t currently fit the mounting holes on my aftermarket headers, so I’m going to have to grind the holes a little bigger.

2. A niggle. A big niggle. Having heard so much about Dynojet’s products over the years, I have to say that their documentation is really sub-standard.
Certain passages in the Quickshifter installation doc don’t correspond with what’s said in the PC 5 installation doc, the different quickshifter types aren’t adequately explained (for example, it isn’t made clear that any quickshifter replacing a shift rod will not have a sliding rod, because it uses a load cell), it’s not made clear how to use the universal input terminals, et cet.

I’m an ex-mechanic who’s spent the last five years as a technical writer for aerospace, defence and IT, and this kind of thing is really noticeable. Companies need to start realizing that you can’t spend 100% of your R&D budget on product R&D, then produce the required documentation as an afterthought.
Companies are not just judged on the strength of their product, but on the quality of their documentation as well. This is why it makes sense NOT to produce an excellent product, then hand over the documentation to someone who is not familiar with the principle of sequential explanation, and cannot write in simple technical English. It’s a clear illustration of a company's priorities when four slick silk-screened decals are included in the box for placement on the bike, yet the installation docs consist of four black-and-white photocopied pages.
No, no, no, guys. It's not enuf to hope that the product quality will 'speak for itself', and back up a good product with sub-par docs.

3. Because of vague explanations and instructions, it’s very easy to configure the quickshifter incorrectly, and I did. The doc makes vague mention of ‘some [types of quickshifter] switches being a normally-open type, others normally closed’, and misuse of catch-all phrases like ‘usually’. All of which leaves you with, at best, a 50/50 chance of getting the initial config settings right. (What this translated into during the test ride was the QS ignoring ‘upshift’ motions on the gear lever, but cutting the engine momentarily when the lever was released. What this translates into on a BMW boxer twin is a big sideways ‘lurch’ as the engine’s torque reaction tries to ‘twist’ the bike around it’s longitudinal axis.) What’s stopping Dynojet from clearly labelling their quickshifters ‘NO’ or ‘NC’, explaining what this means and what the implications for config are in the QS installation doc, then referring the user back to the PC 5 doc for config instructions? Easy peasy.

Having said all this, I'm a tough customer, and the PC and peripherals themselves are of very good quality.
I obviously need to do some more fiddling, but all indications so far are good. Watch this space.
 
I installed a Power Commander 5 on the ’09 Hexhead this weekend.
First notes:

1. The Autotune module installation will have to wait until I can get the headers off, and that will have to wait until I can source two exhaust flange gaskets from BMW (probably this evening). The wide-band Lambda sensors which are part of the Autotune kit don’t currently fit the mounting holes on my aftermarket headers, so I’m going to have to grind the holes a little bigger.

2. A niggle. A big niggle. Having heard so much about Dynojet’s products over the years, I have to say that their documentation is really sub-standard.
Certain passages in the Quickshifter installation doc don’t correspond with what’s said in the PC 5 installation doc, the different quickshifter types aren’t adequately explained (for example, it isn’t made clear that any quickshifter replacing a shift rod will not have a sliding rod, because it uses a load cell), it’s not made clear how to use the universal input terminals, et cet.

I’m an ex-mechanic who’s spent the last five years as a technical writer for aerospace, defence and IT, and this kind of thing is really noticeable. Companies need to start realizing that you can’t spend 100% of your R&D budget on product R&D, then produce the required documentation as an afterthought.
Companies are not just judged on the strength of their product, but on the quality of their documentation as well. This is why it makes sense NOT to produce an excellent product, then hand over the documentation to someone who is not familiar with the principle of sequential explanation, and cannot write in simple technical English. It’s a clear illustration of a company's priorities when four slick silk-screened decals are included in the box for placement on the bike, yet the installation docs consist of four black-and-white photocopied pages.
No, no, no, guys. It's not enuf to hope that the product quality will 'speak for itself', and back up a good product with sub-par docs.

3. Because of vague explanations and instructions, it’s very easy to configure the quickshifter incorrectly, and I did. The doc makes vague mention of ‘some [types of quickshifter] switches being a normally-open type, others normally closed’, and misuse of catch-all phrases like ‘usually’. All of which leaves you with, at best, a 50/50 chance of getting the initial config settings right. (What this translated into during the test ride was the QS ignoring ‘upshift’ motions on the gear lever, but cutting the engine momentarily when the lever was released. What this translates into on a BMW boxer twin is a big sideways ‘lurch’ as the engine’s torque reaction tries to ‘twist’ the bike around it’s longitudinal axis.) What’s stopping Dynojet from clearly labelling their quickshifters ‘NO’ or ‘NC’, explaining what this means and what the implications for config are in the QS installation doc, then referring the user back to the PC 5 doc for config instructions? Easy peasy.

Having said all this, I'm a tough customer, and the PC and peripherals themselves are of very good quality.
I obviously need to do some more fiddling, but all indications so far are good. Watch this space.

Sounds like someone from Dynojet needs to discuss some freelance work with you..:thumby:
 
Part II of this saga.

This one goes out to all peeps who may have done a comprehensive PC 5 installation on a GSA before:

1. What method do you recommend for obtaining a wheel-speed input for the PC to read? (I've heard various opinions on this, and I'm concerned about messing with any ECU resistance values).

2. What method do you recommend for obtaining an engine-temperature input for the PC to read? (As above.)

Any help in this regard would be greatly appreciated.
thumb.gif

Actually, you will be my new personal hero.
 
There is a speed pulse on the 3 pin connector down by the oil cooler. This is the connector generally used to connect a GPS unit to. You need to add something to the circuit which I cant remember exactly what but I will look it out later. Havent used this for a PCV by the way but I have for electronic cruise control.
 
PcV on r1200gs

Hi I just install PC V on my r1200gs with autotune and quick shifter !
At the moment I'm thinking how to connect Gear input sensor for quick shifter to work properly (having trouble shifting 1-2 2-3)
I use 75.00ms cut time at 4000RPM activation works superb shifting from 3rd up
Pleas let me know if you manage to connect speed input and other things :clap:thumby:
I will keep close eye on this thread !
 
There is a speed pulse on the 3 pin connector down by the oil cooler. This is the connector generally used to connect a GPS unit to. You need to add something to the circuit which I cant remember exactly what but I will look it out later. Havent used this for a PCV by the way but I have for electronic cruise control.

Marki, thanks for the advice! :)
The installation centre I bought the hardware from recommended that the speed signal be taken from one of two wires which connects the engine ECU and ABS regulator. It's white with a purple tracer, and very easily accessible at the regulator harness connector, once you have the fuel tank off. (A caution: wiring harnesses differ between year models and per whether your bike has ABS or not. I have the Haynes manual, so I could probably point out the correct wire for differing harnesses. I'm not sure which wire could be tapped into if a given bike doesn't have ABS; maybe the twisted pair coming from the rear-wheel speed sensor would work?)
I made a small opening in the insulation, but didn't cut the wire. I then soldered in a surplus length of Lambda sensor cable that came with the Autotune, and tinned the other end before wiring it into the 'SPEED' terminal of the PC 5.

As for engine-temperature sensors, there are two on this particular bike: the oil-temp sensor (upper right-hand side of the engine, just behind the alternator), and one cylinder-head temperature sensor (inboard of the left-hand throttle body).
Using the same procedure as above, I linked one of the oil-temp sensor wires and the 'ANALOG' terminal of the PC 5 (this is meant to accept a 0-5V linear input).

Another tip for anyone who's interested: Dynojet recommend taking the required ignition-on dependent 12V+ power for the Autotune module from the tail light. I didn't think this was a good idea - the lion's share of that current operates the Lambda sensor heating elements, and they can pull a LOT of power.
In the end, I decided to pull the switched supply from the front parking light, with the earth terminal bolted to the front 'beak' sub-frame. It seems to work just fine (remember, the CANBUS will cut the current if it detects an overload), and I haven't yet had the dreaded 'LAMPF!' warning. :pullface



I finished the installation at 01H30 this morning, and couldn't keep my concentration for long enuf to configure the software. Update to follow.

Hi I just install PC V on my r1200gs with autotune and quick shifter !
At the moment I'm thinking how to connect Gear input sensor for quick shifter to work properly (having trouble shifting 1-2 2-3)
I use 75.00ms cut time at 4000RPM activation works superb shifting from 3rd up
Pleas let me know if you manage to connect speed input and other things :clap:thumby:
I will keep close eye on this thread !

Hi Denz0! :)
A couple of things that aren't immediately apparent....
Unlike 'conventional' bike engines, the boxer-twins use a single-plate clutch with a much greater diameter, as well as a conventional flywheel. All this means that the engine has more rotational inertia (in simple English, the engine is slower than average to gain and lose revs) than something with no flywheel and a multiplate clutch.
This is why clutchless upshifts in the lower gears can be clunky and jerky on the boxer twins. It also goes a ways to explaining why missed shifts in the lower gears can be a factor - that inertia manifests back through the gearbox, meaning that gear dogs take more time to engage.

At the moment, my QS is set at 'single time' mode (not gear-dependent, though I will be quick to enable this once speed and gear inputs are calibrated).
I started off with factory settings (shifts barred below 3000 RPM, 250 ms shift interval, 80 ms kill time). Over the last three days, I've gradually been working to where I am now (shifts barred below 4500 RPM, 150 ms shift interval, 75 ms kill time).

For quickshifters, gear-dependent settings are a MUST. :eek: You need a longer shift interval in the lower gears to compensate for the inertia. In the higher gears, the inertia has less effect, meaning you can take advantage of progressively shorter shift intervals (). Getting a set shift interval spot on for the 1-to-2 and 2-to-3 shifts means that quickshifts in the higher gears start feeling lethargic.
If you make the mistake of shortening the set shift interval to compensate, you risk lunching the gearbox in the lower gears. (And trust me - many people have made THAT mistake! :()

I wouldn't use the gear-position sensor input... it's a rheostat which, in theory, could be connected to the 'ANALOG' input. But I wouldn't risk interfering with it when the PC can use the speed input to calculate gear ratios. (I'd originally considered that myself, but I decided there would be more benefit from using the 'ANALOG' port to monitor engine temperature.)

Good luck! :thumb Let me know how it goes.
 
EDIT: Correcting bad information.

Ever since the site overhaul, the 'Edit this post' button seems to have gone AWOL.

Anyway, as per subject line: my earlier explanation was a bit poor (blame it on lack of sleep)... :nenau

ORIGINAL TEXT:
At the moment, my QS is set at 'single time' mode (not gear-dependent, though I will be quick to enable this once speed and gear inputs are calibrated).
I started off with factory settings (shifts barred below 3000 RPM, 250 ms shift interval, 80 ms kill time). Over the last three days, I've gradually been working to where I am now (shifts barred below 4500 RPM, 150 ms shift interval, 75 ms kill time).

For quickshifters, gear-dependent settings are a MUST. You need a longer shift interval in the lower gears to compensate for the inertia. In the higher gears, the inertia has less effect, meaning you can take advantage of progressively shorter shift intervals (). Getting a set shift interval spot on for the 1-to-2 and 2-to-3 shifts means that quickshifts in the higher gears start feeling lethargic.
If you make the mistake of shortening the set shift interval to compensate, you risk lunching the gearbox in the lower gears. (And trust me - many people have made THAT mistake! )

CORRECTION:
'Shift interval': this is defined as the minimum permissible time between gearshifts.
(This means that the factory shift interval setting is more than you'll ever need - and I really didn't need to fool with it at all.
I mean, seriously... who will ever ride a GS or GSA fast enough to shift gear four times in one second at full throttle?!...)

Far more important for the R1200GS is the 'Kill time'. This is defined as the time in which the PC will cut the fuel supply (and therefore, the engine) when it receives an 'upshift' command from the quickshifter switch.

So, what I should have said is:
For quickshifters, gear-dependent settings are a MUST. You need a longer kill time in the lower gears to compensate for the inertia. In the higher gears, the inertia has less effect, meaning you can take advantage of progressively shorter kill times. Getting a set kill time spot on for the 1-to-2 and 2-to-3 shifts means that quickshifts in the higher gears start feeling lethargic.
If you make the mistake of shortening the set kill time to compensate, you risk lunching the gearbox in the lower gears.
 
Nick thanks for your explanation ! Just wasn't sure whether speed input be enough for PcV to activate variable Kill Time .

another question
autotune
Air Fuel Ratio target ?
Looking at Hill Top A/F Ratio :
3000rpm- 13.0:1
3500rpm- 13.4:1
4000rpm- 13.6:1
4500rpm - 12.6:1
5000rpm- 12.4:1
5500rpm- 12.5:1
6000rpm- 13.0:1
6500rpm- 12.7:1
7000rpm- 13.2:1
my A/F ratio target is different to this
any recommendation ?



Ne
 
Nick thanks for your explanation ! Just wasn't sure whether speed input be enough for PcV to activate variable Kill Time .

No, you're right - speed calibration on it's own isn't enough. You'll need to do gear calibration as well. Instructions below (I need to make clear that the content below is from the Dynojet website, and I do NOT own copyright on it).
They say 'Use a dyno', but you can also do this with the bike on the centre stand. I'd strongly recommend using a tow strap or similar to connect the stand and front wheel, to ensure that the bike CANNOT jump off the stand! Also, keep your weight forward in the saddle to make sure the rear wheel CANNOT touch the ground. It doesn't matter what vehicle speed is being registered during calibration - the important thing is that when the 'Calibrate' button is clicked for each gear, the vehicle speed being registered is constant.

To Calibrate the Gear Position

Gear calibration should be performed on a dyno.


Note: Speed calibration must be completed and you must click OK before proceeding with gear calibration.
Gear Calibration Method 1
1

<tbody>
[TD="width: 100%"] Select Power Commander Tools Calibrate Gear Position.

[/TD]

</tbody>

2

<tbody>
[TD="width: 100%"] Verify the engine is running.
[/TD]

</tbody>

3

<tbody>
[TD="width: 100%"] With the bike in first gear and while holding the throttle steady, click Calibrate for Gear 1.
[/TD]

</tbody>

4

<tbody>
[TD="width: 100%"] With the bike in second gear and while holding the throttle steady, click Calibrate for Gear 2.
[/TD]

</tbody>

5

<tbody>
[TD="width: 100%"] Continue this process through all of the gears.
[/TD]

</tbody>

6

<tbody>
[TD="width: 100%"] Click OK.
PCToolsCalGP.jpg

[/TD]

</tbody>

7

<tbody>
[TD="width: 100%"] Click Advanced to manually enter Gear Widths for each Gear Position.
[/TD]

</tbody>

Note: Do not do this unless instructed by Dynojet to do so.
PCToolsCalGPadv.jpg




another question
autotune
Air Fuel Ratio target ?
Looking at Hill Top A/F Ratio :
3000rpm- 13.0:1
3500rpm- 13.4:1
4000rpm- 13.6:1
4500rpm - 12.6:1
5000rpm- 12.4:1
5500rpm- 12.5:1
6000rpm- 13.0:1
6500rpm- 12.7:1
7000rpm- 13.2:1
my A/F ratio target is different to this
any recommendation ?

Eep! :eek:

There's no way I can even begin to make that kind of recommendation... every single bike in the world encounters different altitudes, ambient air pressure, running conditions, mechanical conditions... sometimes, even the same bike can encounter different conditions from hour to hour!
The best you can do is set some time for the Autotune to 'learn', then accept the trims and load them to the PC. If there are areas on the map where the bike is giving problems, you'll need to focus on that particular area.

Remember also that different tuners have different opinions on the way things should be done... the MATHEMATICALLY correct stoichometric ratio for petrol engines is 14.7:1 (but on paper, even this can vary according to the energy density and/or chemical composition of the particular fuel being used).
 
Another (potential) reason why setting gear-dependent kill times is important: if the PC knows that the bike is in 6th gear, it won't momentarily cut the engine if you happen to touch the gear lever while in sixth. :)

Going back to the issue of shift intervals, I see value in being able to set them so that you can pre-load the gear lever quite fiercely right after an upshift in a full-bore acceleration situation, without shifting up to the next gear too early.
But to get anything approaching full benefit from this feature, you'd have to tweak the shift interval times very carefully... if you pre-load the gear lever for too long, the PC doesn't respond by facilitating a quickshift.
As yet, I have no idea what the relevant 'cut-off' time might be...
 
HELP! Persistent stalling issue...

...I currently have a persistent problem with the bike dying if the throttle is opened too quickly from idle.
If this is done, the engine seems to 'stutter', then either recover and continue to rev, or stall.

Since the PC doesn't keep logs which show Lambda values vs. revs over time, it's not possible to tell whether the engine is over- or under-fuelling at this point (I suspect it may be choking on too rich a mixture at that point, but without hard data, it's just that - a suspicion...)

Since it's also done this with every map I've tried, and my PC does NOT have an ignition module connected (a suitable ignition module isn't available for R-series), I'm also wondering whether the ECU's ignition map isn't in conflict with the PC's fuelling map.
The bike is effectively a 'bitsa' - it was built using a 2009 R1200S engine in conjunction with a 2004-2006 R1200GS engine ECU (rev limit at 7 700 RPM).
This makes me wonder if the bike is fuelling too aggressively for the prevailing ignition-advance curve.

It wouldn't be a problem if I could have the bike off the road for a few days to dig deeper. But since it's currently my only transport, I can't. And the routine stalling when I try to pull away from traffic lights and junctions is getting to be a right royal PITA.

Someone, anyone... please help!
 
Issue sorted - the standard map was too rich at low end.

Well, it's running a load better than it did before!
icon10.gif


First, I sat and had a hard think about what the bike was actually doing.
Then, I thought about the factors I was so blithely throwing around, as well as the specific throttle-position/RPM ranges in which the bike was misbehaving.

I decided to start from scratch. I made a few notes, then went back and had a look at the AFR table for map M12-001-001 (supplied by Dynojet - it's for an '08/'09 R1200GS with standard exhaust and air filter).

The supplied AFR table values seemed very rich (at a few points, they drop into the 12.5:1 range, and 'average' stoichiometric throughout seemed to be in the range of 12.8/13.0:1. I would guess the map is meant for a bike running in a very cold climate, at sea level, in a country where petrol is cheap).

I started by leaning out the upper left-hand corner of the AFR table (from 1000 RPM, 0% throttle to 2000 RPM, 40% throttle) to a range of between 14.6:1 and 13.8:1.
Since those changes were going to take some time for the Autotune to get near to, I also manually leaned out the fuel tables in that range for both cylinders.

Since the throttle-position range above 40% generally covers fast acceleration (and my 'TT Hero' mode), that portion of the AFR table was left as-is.

Doing the adjustments gradually took about four hours, but - what a freakin' difference!!!
The bike no longer dies when coming off idle, it's smooth, it's powerful - and thanks to enleanment in the cruise range, it should be more economical.

I'm not finished fiddling yet. But at least I now have a reasonable baseline from which to start.
clap.gif
I want to try leaning out the cruise range a bit more, and slowly enriching the 'eyeballs-out' range.

If this map can be of use to anyone (unlikely, since most of you lucky buggers run at sea level), I'll gladly forward a copy. Let me know.
 
Quickshifter settings that work.

Also, here are the quickshifter settings I've found to be best for my riding style (which can be roughly described as 70% high-speed cruise, 20% 'Fast trot' and 10% 'Are you nuts?!')

Shift interval: as standard (250 ms).
Minimum RPM threshold: 4 500 RPM (any lower than this, and the bike tends to lurch during shifts at anything under 40% throttle).

Since I'm using gear-dependent mode, I can take advantage of decreasing kill times:
1 to 2 shift: 75 ms (If you find that you're not throttle-crazed half the time, you could even go up to 80 or 85).
2 to 3 shift: 70 ms.
3 to 4 shift: 55 ms.
4 to 5 shift: 50 ms.
5 to 6 shift: 45 ms.

The kill times I started with were, on average, all 20 to 25 ms greater. It's taken about two weeks of day-to-day fine-tuning to get to this point.

Re. the 4 to 5 and 5 to 6 kill times: I've found that these are the times above are the shortest my gearbox will tolerate. Previously, I tried the following:

4 to 5 shift: 45 ms.
5 to 6 shift: 40 ms

But during both shifts (especially 5 to 6), I was starting to get occasional incomplete engagement, with the gearbox going into 'false neutrals'. :eek:
 
Hi Nick you've spent some time playing with the settings now. How does it compare to standard ? Can you give a 'seat of the pants' assessement. Is it a lot smoother and / or powerful compared to standard ?

I may fit one in the spring but will get it set up on a dyno if I do.

Mike
 
Hi Nick you've spent some time playing with the settings now. How does it compare to standard ? Can you give a 'seat of the pants' assessement. Is it a lot smoother and / or powerful compared to standard ?

I may fit one in the spring but will get it set up on a dyno if I do.

Mike

Hi Mike! :)

Well, to me, a 'Standard' is a flag flown from the top of a pole... spec-wise, this bike is a bit of a mongrel, and has been since I bought it. So I really have no objective means of comparison.
In terms of power delivery, it feels about the same on top-end as my '10 Camhead (stock, except for removal of exhaust valve and installation of a race slip-on). Mid-range also feels roughly equivalent, although the twin-cam engine seems to rev more freely.

In terms of the improvement the PC has made - it definitely has done. :thumb2
Much tweaking still has to be done, but the bike definitely has more low-end and mid-range power than it did pre-PC. I didn't install the system to make the engine more powerful - I bought it primarily to smooth out what was (to me) the rough power curve brought on by a gross engine/ECU mismatch.

The quickshifter has also made a big difference. I have yet to test the bike side-by-side against a similarly-equipped non-QS GSA, but I suspect that by the time I reached sixth, I'd be at least two bike lengths ahead. (Not to mention the looks on the faces of fast car drivers who realise that the sit-up-and-beg BMW that just passed them has a gearchange sound like a Group A touring car.)

Using a dyno to set up something like this is DEFINITELY the way to go, if you can spare the bike for the needed development time.
A tip: if you're going to do dyno tuning, make sure the bike goes in with a rear tyre which is just about ready for the knackers'. Dyno tuning destroys rear tyres.

Alternatively, do what I did: invest in the Autotune module at the same time, and swot up on ideal stoichiometric ratios with which to populate the AFR table. The module will then adjust the PC to match those values automatically.
If your engine and ECU are as standard, this will work far better for you than it did for me. :thumb I had to do a lot of experimentation because my base setup was so unusual.
 
Well, it's running a load better than it did before!
icon10.gif


First, I sat and had a hard think about what the bike was actually doing.
Then, I thought about the factors I was so blithely throwing around, as well as the specific throttle-position/RPM ranges in which the bike was misbehaving.

I decided to start from scratch. I made a few notes, then went back and had a look at the AFR table for map M12-001-001 (supplied by Dynojet - it's for an '08/'09 R1200GS with standard exhaust and air filter).
throttle to 2000 RPM, 40% throttle) to a range of between 14.6:1 and 13.8:1.
Since those changes were going to take some time for the Autotune to get near to, I also manually leaned out the fuel tables in that range for both cylinders.

Since the throttle-position range above 40% generally covers fast acceleration (and my 'TT Hero' mode), that portion of the AFR table was left as-is.

Doing the adjustments gradually took about four hours, but - what a freakin' difference!!!
The bike no longer dies when coming off idle, it's smooth, it's powerful - and thanks to enleanment in the cruise range, it should be more economical.

I'm not finished fiddling yet. But at least I now have a reasonable baseline from which to start.
clap.gif
I want to try leaning out the cruise range a bit more, and slowly enriching the 'eyeballs-out' range.

If this map can be of use to anyone (unlikely, since most of you lucky buggers run at sea level), I'll gladly forward a copy. Let me know.

Nick
This is interesting what you doing with Afr at the part throttle opening
I think the rule is 12.5:1 -13.2:1 perfect AFR (most power)
14.7:1 best fumes and fuel economy.
but if it works why not !
I'm interested in the copy of your map ! :)


Ne
 
Nick
This is interesting what you doing with Afr at the part throttle opening
I think the rule is 12.5:1 -13.2:1 perfect AFR (most power)
14.7:1 best fumes and fuel economy.
but if it works why not !
I'm interested in the copy of your map ! :)
Ne

Hi again Ne!

Yes, one of the most important principles of making optimum power by getting the most out of your fuel is getting as close as possible to ideal stoichiometric (14.7:1).
This ratio never changes - it's just that other factors such as barometric pressure, ambient temperature etc. constantly do - and they all have an effect on air density. If air density increases or decreases, the corresponding fuel ratio must increase or decrease in proportion.

Traditionally, the whole point behind a slightly richer mixture for higher performance is that it provides a 'safety net' against two destructive factors: knocking and engine overheating - both of which go more-or-less hand in hand. But the optimum range is very, very narrow - if the mixture becomes too rich, unburned hydrocarbons, smoke (which is actually the soot or 'charcoal' of unburned fuel) and carbon-fouled plugs and sensors start to become factors. (Not to mention that you will start to pay a fortune in petrol.)

Remember, up here at Gauteng Province, we're running between 1 100 and 1 400m above sea level. The air is pretty thin up here - which means that an AFR map with values which are too rich will 'choke' the engine. This is what happened to me.

I can send you the map with pleasure - but if you're running at or near sea level, I don't recommend that you use it - your engine could end up knocking like crazy.
What's your E-mail address?
 


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