The SouthWest 660

[Toshack10]

(It's a thing, or trying to be)

A confluence of circumstances… my wife is away for work and son has started 2nd year at Uni so I had a weekend ahead of me in which I could sit and do normal stuff or do something that I wouldn’t normally do with family around.

The world was my oyster.. and I thought about doing a number of things, so much so that time got short and decisions didn’t get made until the middle of last week.

It turns out that some bright sparks in the bottom left hand corner of England have seen the success of the North Coast 500 and thought “we’ll have some of that” and come up with the Southwest 660. There’s a website, and everything, 660 miles (all in) from Watchet (near Minehead on the Somerset coast) to Bournemouth – so right around the coast of Somerset, Devon, Cornwall and Dorset. Or, as their GPX files (which I have but didn’t use) and website seem to prefer, the other way round. They also suggest allowing 2 weeks for this trip to experience ALL the delights of (and around) the 660 miles. I didn’t ave the time and also figured I’d been to Bournemouth, so fancied a different route home. The forecast was dry, if not warm and sunny

As an aside, if you really really HATE someone, buy them a Lamborghini and force them to drive this loop. In August. It’ll take 2 weeks, if they and the car survive. All in all, a perfect trip for a motorbike…

I booked some rooms. I had a vague plan – a town with choices of lodgings and eatings, with Minehead being the first night so I could do a Parkrun on Saturday.

On the Friday I left home (sth London) about 11 and headed out toward Guildford, Alton and the A303. Never a road to choose but easier on 2. I can highly recommend the Teals tea rooms/farm shop (the Tebay of the A303) just east of Yeovil, and being a bit of petrolhead, spent a while in the Haynes museum (and felt it very poor value for £24). Turn off at Yeovil toward Bridgewater (through the wonderfully named Huish Episcopi). After Bridgewater I wanted to shoot myself: 40mph speed limits, busy and dual solid lines most of the way. Fabulous view of the Hinckley C site (and the buses ferrying folk in and out). I arrived in Minehead having flashbacks: I grew up in Gt Yarmouth, also a faded seaside holiday town. Minehead does have Butlins, which I am sure locals view as both a blessing and a curse. Found my digs, and had time for an hour walk and dinner/pint at the last unbooked table at “The Old Ship Aground” .

At this point, I’d already failed in my quest as I did NOT go to Watchet for the start of the 660. But did walk past (and run 3 times past) the start of the South West Coastal Path. And to those that have done that, chapeau. There’s NO flat is my guess.

I tried planning the route in the Beeline app but gave up as generally it's version of fun and fast involved trips inland, which was not my intention. Yes I could have waypointed it, but figured I can follow roadsigns pretty easily and don't mind the odd stop to double check where I am and where I am heading. So Beeline recorded the trip

 

[Toshack10]

As I was not using the official GPX files, and time would likely preclude visits to the sea at all points, I took a screen grab of the static map on the SW660 website and eyeballed my route. So after Parkrun and a cold shower (unplanned…), I figured a route that allowed me to remember the basics of where I was going: A39, turn right to Ilfracombe, follow the signs to Barnstaple, Back on the A39 (past Clovelly (been before)), and turn right after Bude toward Boscastle and Tintagel. I got to wondering, we say “Fo’csle” for the bit of a ship called “Forecastle”, what do they call Boscastle? Anyway, being a shitty tourist, I stopped briefly at Tintagel to stretch my legs and no more. Then Port Isaac, Polzeath and Wadebridge for Padstow. I rode through the middle of a busy Saturday in Padstow and didn’t stop for pricey seafood. Partly as I’d detoured to Westward Ho! for a light lunch and cup of tea. I think Westward Ho! is a pub quiz question…

From Padstow it was the minor (coastal) road to Hayle and St Ives. Started riding about 10.30am and arrived about 5. Parked the bike – fortunately the hotel had a spot for it, seemingly gold dust in St Ives. Time for a walk for an hour or so, and dinner.

St Ives is lovely, but I bet it’s bloody awful in the summer holidays. The car parks were full in mid October, and seemingly most of the AirBnB places (other rental agencies abound) were empty, making most of the housing unused…

It is here that I wish I’d done a bit more planning, as I knew Sunday would be a long ride, and I got the St Ives too late for the Tate and the Hepworth museums, both of which I’d like to have visited.

 

[Toshack10]

The problem with long days on the bike is moving. So I got up early and wandered along the coastal path to Carbis bay and back before breakfast, just to get some exercise. I cycled Lands End to JoG in 2006 so I’d done that before, but headed to Penzance after the start of that so missed the more northerly route through St Just and past the old tin mines. I knew they were in “Cornwall” but had no clue they were so concentrated around St Just. I got the Geevor museum before it opened… which did mean no one was around. I also popped to Cape Cornwall, and before I knew it, I’d missed my turn and was heading into the Lands End “site”. I already have a photo at the sign so looped around the carpark and headed to Penzance via Trethewy - the route I'd cycled 19 years ago.

“I’m doing a coastal ride:” so at penzance I followed the signs for the Esplanade. At the end of which is a sign for Helston, but that’s the other side of a road closure, so I retraced the esplanade and went around the A30 and turn off to Helston.

I’ve just remembered that when I did the NC500 I didn’t go to John O’Groats, but did make a detour to Dunnet Head. And this trip didn’t (really) go to Lands End but did detour to The Lizard (apparently, it’s the definite article). Quick photo stop and to buy a pasty for my tank bag and back at it…

I think the “Official” route likes using the river ferries that run across the Fal, Teign, Exe and so forth on the south coast. I think the Falmouth/St Mawes ferry would be one of these but I figured it quicker to avoid town and take the King Harry ferry slightly upstream. That meant I missed St Mawes but did take the road through Trewithian and Tregony to St Austell. Guessing Fowey would be rammed I skipped the ferry there too, and went toward Liskeard and turned right through Barcelona to Looe. No mans Land and Hessenford and onto the A38. Again, the official route is, I think, the Torpoint ferry and into the middle of Plymouth. I took the Tamar bridge to avoid the City . And learned the hard way that taking a glove off and getting the wallet out to pay the toll is not necessary on a motorbike…

From there, the coastal route (if not visits to the coast, as preferred by the Devon tourist office) is the A379, which I took as far as Salcombe. At 4ish on a Sunday afternoon, it was quiet, which after Padstow and the like, was quite nice. From there was about an hour via Torcross to Dartmouth. Finally off the bike, another walk around town and dinner in the pub.

 

[Toshack10]

I knew I wasn’t going to get to Bournemouth. But did have a wobble as my wife texted me saying her mum was going to be staying at our Monday night so an extra night away looked a little more attractive… But I did have an end point/detour in mind. After a pre-breakfast morning walk to Little Dartmouth I rolled onto the Upper Ferry in the Monday morning mizzle and headed toward Paignton and the A380 up toward Exeter. Dull but on wet roads in the mist I was content enough pass some miles. Turn right at Sandy Park to the A3052 to Sidford and Lyne Regis before another right turn at Bridport to follow the road above the west end of Chesil Beach. Stunning road before getting stuck behind a coach that was far too big for the roadspace. Nipped past it (and the traffic behind it) in Abbotsbury. So, Weymouth and the onward route to Bournemouth

Or not…

I’d never been to Portland (Bill) so I decided I’d finish my coastal route there. As good a place as any, particularly as the route into Bournemouth would (officially) be the ferry from Swanage. So down to Portland Bill, for a pot of tea and a Scone. I am definitely a cream on first person, but not sure how to keep the Dorset folk happy on the jam/cream debate.

So my Southwest 660 was not 660 miles but 680km, missing various bits in the interests of brevity and being a shitty visitor to places with brown signs, National Trust signs and tea rooms…

 

[Toshack10]

So on home. My glance at routes on my phone/google maps told Bournemouth home would generally be on the M27/M3, manageable (slowly) on back roads but after an already decent weekend I didn’t want to sit on the motorway. The straightest route from Weymouth to London at least starts out via Dorchester, Blandford, Salisbury, so that’s the signs I followed. Well, it was until I saw a sign for Tolpuddle and a bit of school history popped into my head so took a detour. Very pretty but didn’t stop at the Martyrs Museum… (I am REALLY bad at this).

Salisbury was a decision point. Back on the A303 or take the A30 and head to Alton and Guildford. So that was my route back into town.

All in about 1330km, in 4 days.

Heading back, I did get to thinking what I’d do differently. Had I planned more I’d have allowed more time in St Ives, so that would involve an extra night and different night stops. Something like Minehead, ~Padstow, Helston, ~Dartmouth and finish in Bournemouth would allow for the whole route (or as near as) with time (in my case) to see the Tate.

Unlike the NC500, who were trying to create visitors, these counties have them in abundance in the summer months so I am not sure what they are trying to achieve here beyond “lengthening” the season. But if you’re on 4 wheels, it’ll be super slow. 2 wheels is fine, as long as you’re not in the summer holidays…

 

[Jockser]

Nice write up, thanks

 

[Toshack10]

Just to add, it was a short trip so made do with a top bag (to which I strapped my uke - I am learning and need to practice). The bike is much nicer without the weight of the Vario boxes. Though i think I have a rear shock starting to bounce

 

[Mr Derek]

It's a decent ride but not during school holidays. Traffic round here during the holidays is horrendous. One breakdown can cause miles of hold ups as most of the roads are single carriageway and it's nose to tail wobbly boxes..

The official route has too many stop off places and interrupts the flow of the ride. It is better to look at the route, see where you want to visit and cut corners off the official route. But like the NC500 it misses a lot of the good bits. For example, Dartmoor and Exmoor are worth visiting, but the SW660 hogs the coast, so the moors get bypassed.

Boscastle, pronounced Boscastle, is worth a visit for a reminder of the terrible flash flood in 2004 and also for the Museum of Witchcraft and Magic. There are a lot of myths and legends down that way. Watch out for the Piskies! Mevagissey is also worth a visit but will add 20 miles to the trip as there is only one way in and out, through the oddly named village of London Apprentice.

The road from West bay to Portesham, through Abbotsbury is a highlight of the trip. Wonderful views of The Fleet, Chesil Beach and Portland. Watch out for speed cameras. It's heavily policed. It's the road that most of my rides either start or finish along as it goes right past my house.

As for the scones question, they had to cancel the south west rock festival as they couldn't decide whether The Jam or Cream should top the bill.

Nice report, thanks, but lacking pics of food.

 

[Rusty]

Thanks for posting that up. Minehead and Watchet are lovely arn't they ? . Stayed at The Raleghs X Inn a few times. Delightful base for that area.