The ups and downs of the Harz mountains, Germany

DavidJames

Registered user
Joined
Aug 21, 2006
Messages
3,128
Reaction score
0
Location
Reading
Having just come back from my first ever trip abroad on my bike I thought I would share my experiences with you. Although I rode bikes when I was younger, I only passed my test around 18 months ago so my first long trip abroad was a big deal for me, especially as it was mostly solo. The opportunity came via an invitation from a German friend of mine that visits the Harz mountains every year with his friends during their public holiday weekend in early May. I made my final decision to go 1 week before the off as I had a few work things to sort before leaving - then the organisation/panic started. Using this place my source of information I went about collecting the essentials and checking insurance, breakdown cover etc etc. As the trip was only 4 days I decided I would travel as light as possible and use my large tail pack and a tank bag rather than panniers. My trial packing session was fine and everything fitted perfectly, however I did have some concerns about security of the tail pack if I wanted to leave the bike alone for any period. I resolved this by buying a product from Pacsafe which is designed for securing ruck sacks, and is basically a wire mesh which can be locked to a stationary object (or a bike in my case). I also took another smaller bag inside my tank bag so that I could take valuables with me when I was away from the bike for shorter periods, paying for fuel for example (this will be mentioned again!!!!!!). I made sure I had a few basic tools and also took the precaution of getting a spare fuel controller, as although my bike is still under warranty I figured it would be quicker to replace it myself, rather than wait for recovery should the worst happen.


Heiner and his friends would be travelling from Berlin on Friday after work and expected to get to the accomodation around 9 or 10pm. This meant that my journey there could be a fairly relaxed ride, or, I could take a diversion and also get a ride through the Mosel valley on the way there. I decided to leave early and take the diversion. I took a 7:30am train and made great progress through France and into Belgium, stopping at 11:30am for fuel and a quick rest just after Brussels. After filling the bike to the brim and paying for the fuel and a snack (with all my valuables with me - not the bike) I pushed the bike over to a parking spot for a 5 minute rest and my snack. I placed my valuables back in the tank bag as I was right next to the bike - no one would steal them whilst I was this close...............right? - WRONG!!! When I turned to put the wrapper from my snack in the bin, the passenger of the car parked next to the bike reached out and took my wallet. I did not notice the car leaving in a hurry and only noticed the wallet was gone a few minutes later when I thought about buying some water.

Instant panic set in and I started calling my bank and credit card suppliers to get them blocked. They had taken 300 Euros and around 20 pounds as well as my cards and photo driving license, I was actually quite lucky that they did not take my phone, camera, passport and documents. My initial thought was that I would be able to make it back to my mum's home in Kent on the fuel I had just bought, and that was the end of my weekend.:mad::mad: After some calming down and some calls to my wife and my friend Heiner, it was clear that if I could get to Harz he could give me more money and it would be ok - the problem was that I thought I would need at least 1 more tank of fuel to get there if I took it easy and no way to pay for it. I had plenty of time to consider the options as the Belgium police took 2.5 hours to come and take the report:augie:augie We figured out 2 options:

1: Barclays told us that if I could get to a bank with my passport they could authorise money from my account to be given to me.

2: Western Union instant money transfer.

Whilst I was waiting for the police to come before I could go off to find a bank etc. a group of British bikers pulled in and very kindly all chipped in to give me 40 Euros and refused to give me their address so i could send a refund.:angel:angel - This gave me my 3rd option, don't waste time with the banks etc and try to get there on 40 euros. As the whole episode had already cost me around 3 hours I did not feel much like taking it easy and conserving fuel for the rest of the ride to Harz so I deicde to try and get more cash from the bank. The Insurance office were quite confused when I went in and asked for some money (they were owned by a bank and therefore had a similar name to a high street bank :rolleyes:) but sent me up the road to a real bank. I explained the situation to the bank teller....:type.....:type.....computer says 'no'. :tears:tears I spot another bank a few doors up the road and try them, they are muuch more helpful and agree that if my bank can send some money they will open an account for me and I can take the money today - Barclays on the other had are complete b@stards!!!!! After sitting on hold for around 30 minutes in total, being cut if twice and speaking to several retards from all over the world they told me the cut off time for money transfer was at 2pm................20 minutes ago:spitfire:spitfire. The bank manager was invetigating Western Union in the background and had called 2 local Post Offices to check they offered the service and what time they would close that afternoon. After thanking him for all of his efforts I rode up the steet to the post office to try my luck.

Western union is a simple principle - someone agrees to give someone else money from their credit/debit card and it can be handed out in cash anywhere in the world. There are obviously a few forms and hurdles you need to overcome (forms not writtend in English) but on the whole it went fairly smoothly and I was 400 euros better off by 5pm.

So now the scenic route was not an option and some serious 'progress' needed to be made..............5pm on a Friday evening at the beginning of a Bank Holiday weekend..........bugger!!! I hit several traffice jams getting to the motorway and then more on various sections in Germany, wherever I could I would filter and give it some beans (got flashed twice in Germany, but I think they only take a picture from the front:mmmm). I eventually left the Autobahn and headed into the Harz mountains with the Zumo telling me there was still an hour to go, it was 11pm. Suddenly there were no street lights and I was very aware fo the crap headlight on the GS, even on main beam. My first taste of the roads I would be riding for the next 2 days were scary, but also very promising :D Lots of sweeping curves with a hairpins and a fantastic smooth road surface. They seemed to be fairly well marked out, even with my shitty headlight i could read the road quite well and maintained some good speeds. I eventually got the turn off for the place we were staying which was a gravel track about a mile long - again fairly exciting at night :thumb The guys heard me coming down the track and came to greet me, it was such a relief to finally get there. I am sure you can guess the next few hours :beer::beer::beerjug::beer:

My bike ready for the crossing:
 

Attachments

  • DSCF1851.jpg
    DSCF1851.jpg
    153.5 KB · Views: 514
Keep it coming David - I can't believe you kept your wallet in your tent??? I always keep it in my pocket as it is everything as you have found out.

Anyway - I await your next installment:thumb2

AndyT:cool:
 
What an awful feeling to realise your wallet had been taken. I always spread my money and cards out a little - half in my wallet and half somewhere else. I think some people also have an emergency note, say 20 or 50 euros, taped under the seat or somehwere just in case.

Good to see you managed to get sorthed and look forward to the next piece. :thumb2
 
I have to agree that I was pretty stupid not to stash a spare card and cash elsewhere on me or the bike:blast We live and learn!!

Saturday morning was bright and sunny and I woke early feeling a little hungover, sore and aching from the previous days ride. We all met for breakfast and I explored the place where we were staying. We were in a clearing in the middle of the forest with a series of different sized cabins as well as a main building consisting of the breakfast room, a function room and several bedrooms. My cabin slept 4 people and had 2 shower rooms a living area and a kithen, other cabins were smaller for just 2 people. Whilst there was not a bar or a restaurant, food and drink were provided as required for bbq's in the evening. The group consited of 11 bikes with a total 17 people (3 had come by car) and were all German except myself and a guy from Switzerland - he was obviuosly fluent in German though. The bikes were a bit of a mixture, we had:

1 x 1200GS (mine)
1 x KTM990 Adv
1 x KTM640 Adv
1 x 100GS
3 x 1150GS (1 stadard, 1 with twin underseat exhaust and 1 with a huge tank)
1 x 1100GS Beakless and with an 1150 engine and twin underseat exhaust
1 x Triumph Rocket
1 x Suzuki Valerie ;)
1 x Vmax streetfighter

When everyone had got their heads straight, around lunchtime, we all headed out for a group ride. Getting back onto the roads I had ridden the night before in the pitch black was quite a surprise, the scenery was beautiful. It was very typical German pine forests with glistening lakes and small villages made up of timber framed buildings. The roads were also a huge delight, twisty mountian roads that were well marked with warnings for particularly dangerous bends and incredibly well maintained. I was riding in about 3rd position from the leader and he was really moving on his 1100/1150 hybrid!!! As I am fairly inexperienced it was amazing to follow someone with much more skill and learn from his experience. We would stop every 45 minutes or so for a quick chat and planning session (mainly in German so I just waited for the off!!!) The ride was brilliant, the concentration of such great roads was a real surprise to me, we just seemed to keep going on new roads and each one was as good as the last. Whilst the riding was superb fun, I did feel that I was missing out on the scenery, obviously these guys had seen it all before, but I was flying past all of these great places and not seeing a thing. After around 5 hours we all headed back to the site to get ready for dinner. The bbq was lit and the food was delivered ready for cooking, 2 trays of marinated pork steaks, some sausages, potato and cucumber salads, bread, beer, schnapps and more beer. There was plenty of food and drink for everyone to enjoy, when it was finished we congregated around the fire pit for more beers and great conversation - it is amazing how easy it is to understand a second language after several beers :beerjug::beerjug: Drunk, tired and exhausted we headed to bed after a great day.
 

Attachments

  • DSCF1854 small.jpg
    DSCF1854 small.jpg
    79.4 KB · Views: 440
  • DSCF1859 small.jpg
    DSCF1859 small.jpg
    90.3 KB · Views: 430
  • DSCF1863 small.jpg
    DSCF1863 small.jpg
    101.4 KB · Views: 435
The second day in the mountains began with a similar sized hangover but less aches and pains from the day before. Everybody was very slow in getting together this morning and people were splitting into groups for the days riding, I decided to go out on my own so that I could stop when I wanted and not hold anyone up. I had remembered the rough location of a couple of scenic areas and after consulting a basic map I set the Zumo on 'shortest route' to each location to see where it took me. It did not dissapoint:thumb2 Taking a more casual ride was great as you could still enjoy the twisty roads, but also take in the views and stop for the odd photo. I also ended up on some very quiet tracks which were loose gravel, and a nice change from the near perfect roads I had been on. I will let the photos do the talking for the todays ride.
The evening followed the same format as the previous nights, with some added visitors in the form of annoying small flys and mosquitos - remember to bring insect repellant next time! I took it much easier on the beer as my mind kept drifting to my journey home the next day - approx 600 miles.
 

Attachments

  • DSCF1866 small.jpg
    DSCF1866 small.jpg
    115.5 KB · Views: 447
  • DSCF1873 small.jpg
    DSCF1873 small.jpg
    178.8 KB · Views: 435
  • DSCF1879 small.jpg
    DSCF1879 small.jpg
    138 KB · Views: 434
  • DSCF1882 small.jpg
    DSCF1882 small.jpg
    135.9 KB · Views: 431
  • DSCF1884 small.jpg
    DSCF1884 small.jpg
    144.1 KB · Views: 432
The 4th and final day - the journey home :tears To be honest I was far from looking forward to the trip home. The weekend had been great and I was sad to be leaving a great place and the new friends I had made, but I had also been pretty uncomfortable on the bike towards the end of the ride here and I was not looking forward to that. Although I wanted to get the trip home over and done with, I was also not in a great hurry to leave so I ended up getting some breakfast, saying my goodbyes and hitting the road at around 9:30am. The first part of the journey took me down one of the best roads we had ridden during the weekend, as if to remind me what I was riding away from:thedummy I was worried that the traffice might build during the day as the locals returned from their holidays weekend, but I think I was lucky. I made great progress on the autobahn, at times I was quite easiliy cruising at 110mph, but I could see this having a serious effect on my tank range so decided to ease up a bit. The autobahns in Germany were very good, there was plenty of scenery to keep the boredem at bay and other drivers were very alert of my presence so I felt pretty safe. The short section through The Netherlands was easy enough, but Belgium was a different matter................the motorway was empty, flat, straight and the most boring part of the journey by far. I did not want to tempt fate and stop in Belgium, so aside from a small cock up on the Antwerp ring road, I got out of there ASAP. The final stretch through France was easy and felt good as I saw signs for Calais and the Tunnel, I did have a little scare when the fuel went onto reserve and my Zumo took me to 3 closed petrol stations before finding one open :eek: I got to the Tunnel check-in almost exactly 2 hours before my booked crossing and was offered the next train:thumb2:thumb2 The timing could not of been any better as I was almost immediately boarded at the front of the train and on my way home to England. I finally arrived home at 7pm which was much earlier than I expected and I also felt much better than expected. I was in no-where near as much discomfort as the trip out there, but a sore arse was still very evident!!!

The whole trip was a great experience, despite the first day's problems, and I will definitly do it again. The Harz mountians were wonderful and I was quite surprised that they had only been mentioned on here a couple of times when I searched before my trip. Perhaps they may not be as dramatic as the Alps etc but as they are not too far away I would highly recommend a visit to the area.

I guess I learnt a few things about travelling, myself and my bike:

Shit happens - you will deal with it, either on your own or someone will help you.
1200GS has a crap seat and a crappier head light - apart from that it performed perfectly. It is really suited to the roads in Harz - plenty of torque and plenty of engine braking for getting you smoothly round the twisties, whilst still having the ability to cruise at good speeds on the autobahns.

I am looking forward to doing another trip soon as Heiner and I talking about doing Scotland later this year...........and also going back to Harz next year.

Cheers

David
 
A couple more things, the total cost for the weekend's accomodation, food and beer was 100Euros per person - not bad eh?

And, unless anyone knows a group of middle aged bikers from the West Midlands that helped a stranded tosser at a service station near Leuven in Belgium, I am going to convert their 40Euros into £40 and donate it to a suitable charity - any suggestions?

Cheers

David
 


Back
Top Bottom