That's probably what I'll do.
Those Bloody Boers - A bimble round SA
- Thread starter Mongoose
- Start date
SAMA who organized this tour, also do BMW rentals with panniers. Decent choice of bikes from 1250 Triple Blacks to new 1300's or F800/900.
If you're going it alone, it's well worth planning ahead and not trying to wing it. A lot of the decent hotels here have been booked up, even this early in the year. Most have secure parking for bikes, by dint of the fact that they're surrounded by electrified razor wire!
We've arrived at our hotels quite early, which is apparently by design as there are a lot of places you don't want to be out and about after sundown. I have no real idea whether our guides are just being a bit dramatic, but they assure me they're not!
Odd town we've just arrived in, which is the first in four days where I've seen white faces. It's a tad touristy and twee is Carins, but a decent base from which to get back into Lesotho to do some of the mountain pass roads, which is the plan for tomorrow.
If you're going it alone, it's well worth planning ahead and not trying to wing it. A lot of the decent hotels here have been booked up, even this early in the year. Most have secure parking for bikes, by dint of the fact that they're surrounded by electrified razor wire!
We've arrived at our hotels quite early, which is apparently by design as there are a lot of places you don't want to be out and about after sundown. I have no real idea whether our guides are just being a bit dramatic, but they assure me they're not!
Odd town we've just arrived in, which is the first in four days where I've seen white faces. It's a tad touristy and twee is Carins, but a decent base from which to get back into Lesotho to do some of the mountain pass roads, which is the plan for tomorrow.
Thanks for the info.
I've stayed a night in Clarens and I'm sure a local pub was a biker hang-out.
Yesterday was supposed to be a rest day in Clarins, but we were given the opportunity to ride back into Lesotho to do the mountain passes. I woke early and checked the weather forecast, which frankly, was horrendous. I took a decision to leave the bike and ride in the back up van so I could at least take some photos, something which the Aussie contingent gave me a bit of stick for! Feck em, I've done thousands of miles doing courier work on a bike in the UK, I've nowt to prove and this is looking like it's going to be a miserable experience.
We set off in torrential rain, thunder and lightning with some roads completely awash. As I'd predicted, it didn't look like fun, with the bikes down to low speed and as we rode up the mountain pass, rockfalls started to appear, the cloudbase dropped and you couldn't see more than two metres in front. It was getting bloody dangerous and at the first stop a decision was taken to turn around. The Aussies had gone very quiet, probably due to the fact they were soaked, cold and not at all happy. I really did try very hard not to look like a smug, dry Pommie b4stard as I believe I was called
The journey back if anything, was worse and to cap it all, one of the 900's broke down and we had to shove it in the van. Not a great day, but hey, it's spring here, so to be expected. Moral of the story, always check the weather forecast.
We set off in torrential rain, thunder and lightning with some roads completely awash. As I'd predicted, it didn't look like fun, with the bikes down to low speed and as we rode up the mountain pass, rockfalls started to appear, the cloudbase dropped and you couldn't see more than two metres in front. It was getting bloody dangerous and at the first stop a decision was taken to turn around. The Aussies had gone very quiet, probably due to the fact they were soaked, cold and not at all happy. I really did try very hard not to look like a smug, dry Pommie b4stard as I believe I was called
The journey back if anything, was worse and to cap it all, one of the 900's broke down and we had to shove it in the van. Not a great day, but hey, it's spring here, so to be expected. Moral of the story, always check the weather forecast.
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The day I've been planning this for arrived with bright sunshine but single figure temperatures.
A fantastic 300km ride with around 50km on gravel tracks through a game reserve, which had my aris twitching like a bird watcher with tourette's, not least because there's a £1200 security deposit against damage to the bike. Stuck the 800 in Enduro mode and she was fantastic all the way to Isandlwana.
For those not familiar, it's the site of probably the biggest disaster ever to affect the British Army. 1245 men died when their camp was over run by Zulu warriors. There were numerous opportunities to prevent such huge losses, but the men commanding the British columns missed all of them. Just 43 men from the camp escaped. Two of them, Melvill and Coghill were awarded posthumous VC's although there is some speculation amongst historians that their aim of protecting the regimental colours was actually an excuse to abandon their men to save themselves.
Around the battlefield are numerous cairns with white stones, each of them the resting place of dozens of British soldiers. The British papers at the time were full of horrified eye witness statements of the aftermath of the battle, most of the bodies having been disemboweled. This was presented as savagery at it's worst as opposed to what it was - a Zulu cultural action to release the spirit of the deceased. Newspapers even then, were attempting to sway political sentiment, in this case towards supporting the war in SA, which the government had been keen to avoid.
From there to Rorke's Drift, the scene of the story told in the film Zulu. 145 British soldiers and the odd 'Foreigner' held the post just ten miles from Isandlwana days after the slaughter there. The Zulus had around 4000 warriors attack the post and eleven VC's were subsequently awarded to those involved in the action.
Humbled and a bit emotional today if I'm honest. It's taken me fifty years to get here and the bravery on both sides is staggering. Looking down the battlefield, it must have been utterly terrifying for those involved as their fate became obvious.
Holed up in our fantastic hotel now not far from the battlefield. The place was owned by a well known historian who was sadly shot and killed In a robbery here 18 years ago. I'll add sobering to the list of feelings/emotions from today.
A fantastic 300km ride with around 50km on gravel tracks through a game reserve, which had my aris twitching like a bird watcher with tourette's, not least because there's a £1200 security deposit against damage to the bike. Stuck the 800 in Enduro mode and she was fantastic all the way to Isandlwana.
For those not familiar, it's the site of probably the biggest disaster ever to affect the British Army. 1245 men died when their camp was over run by Zulu warriors. There were numerous opportunities to prevent such huge losses, but the men commanding the British columns missed all of them. Just 43 men from the camp escaped. Two of them, Melvill and Coghill were awarded posthumous VC's although there is some speculation amongst historians that their aim of protecting the regimental colours was actually an excuse to abandon their men to save themselves.
Around the battlefield are numerous cairns with white stones, each of them the resting place of dozens of British soldiers. The British papers at the time were full of horrified eye witness statements of the aftermath of the battle, most of the bodies having been disemboweled. This was presented as savagery at it's worst as opposed to what it was - a Zulu cultural action to release the spirit of the deceased. Newspapers even then, were attempting to sway political sentiment, in this case towards supporting the war in SA, which the government had been keen to avoid.
From there to Rorke's Drift, the scene of the story told in the film Zulu. 145 British soldiers and the odd 'Foreigner' held the post just ten miles from Isandlwana days after the slaughter there. The Zulus had around 4000 warriors attack the post and eleven VC's were subsequently awarded to those involved in the action.
Humbled and a bit emotional today if I'm honest. It's taken me fifty years to get here and the bravery on both sides is staggering. Looking down the battlefield, it must have been utterly terrifying for those involved as their fate became obvious.
Holed up in our fantastic hotel now not far from the battlefield. The place was owned by a well known historian who was sadly shot and killed In a robbery here 18 years ago. I'll add sobering to the list of feelings/emotions from today.
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A long riding day today, around 330km with two thirds of that on gravel tracks. I'm knackered tonight, but probably less so than the head bearings in the bike which have been pummelled senseless today.
A long ride to the Eswatini (Swaziland) border after an early start saw the road blocked......by giraffes. Not something you get everyday. First stop was Blood River, the site if sn epic battle between 450 Boers and a reputed 20 thousand Zulus. Spoiler alert, thousands of Zulus died. I was slightly disappointed that we didn't get to see the Zulu museum around the same event, which is huge, state funded and just two fields away.
An interesting aside from the guides this last few days. The nationality of guests dramatically alters the tour, but the company are now running several tours for Indian clients alone as the demand is so high. Sadly, their Indian guests often won't speak to each other, or rather, higher caste members won't sit with or speak to lower cast members and are routinely awful with staff in hotels and restaurants. Quite a savage irony, imposing their own form of apartheid.
A long ride to the Eswatini (Swaziland) border after an early start saw the road blocked......by giraffes. Not something you get everyday. First stop was Blood River, the site if sn epic battle between 450 Boers and a reputed 20 thousand Zulus. Spoiler alert, thousands of Zulus died. I was slightly disappointed that we didn't get to see the Zulu museum around the same event, which is huge, state funded and just two fields away.
An interesting aside from the guides this last few days. The nationality of guests dramatically alters the tour, but the company are now running several tours for Indian clients alone as the demand is so high. Sadly, their Indian guests often won't speak to each other, or rather, higher caste members won't sit with or speak to lower cast members and are routinely awful with staff in hotels and restaurants. Quite a savage irony, imposing their own form of apartheid.
Lost track of the days now and as the temperature climbs, I'm getting a tad knackered. 350km yesterday from Eswatini back into SA via a different border crossing and from the sublime 5* luxury of our hotel there (The suite I had was the biggest hotel room I've ever had anywhere) to the 'Butlins chalet' like room in a hotel next to the Kruger safari park. The riding yesterday was fantastic - long sweeping bends through the mountains and plains in warm sunshine on largely empty roads.
An early 4.30 am start this morning to board a huge safari truck to Kruger. I have to say, I didn't expect much, but blimey........
Last couple of days coming up. I went for a wander to the shopping centre next door earlier, which was something of a mistake. It was packed, I was the only white person in sight and I very quickly became the centre of attention. Cue a very quick exit. The arguments around immigration are no doubt still raging on other pages, but you can see why people try.to each Europe and the UK when the disparity between those who have and those who have nothing is so stark and their opportunity non existent.
An early 4.30 am start this morning to board a huge safari truck to Kruger. I have to say, I didn't expect much, but blimey........
Last couple of days coming up. I went for a wander to the shopping centre next door earlier, which was something of a mistake. It was packed, I was the only white person in sight and I very quickly became the centre of attention. Cue a very quick exit. The arguments around immigration are no doubt still raging on other pages, but you can see why people try.to each Europe and the UK when the disparity between those who have and those who have nothing is so stark and their opportunity non existent.
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We've had a couple if days working our way back to Pretoria for departures today and tomorrow. Overall, I've done around 2700km and the group doing the 21 day tour have done over 4000km.
The ride into the city saw a stop at the site of a concentration camp run by the British, where hundreds of Boers died of malnutrition and disease. Sobering, yet beautiful as it was lined with flowering jacarandas.
I think it's going to take me a while to process my thoughts about what is a beautiful, but deeply flawed country that faces some significant issues. I really do fear for the future of the country and can see the potential for a brutal re-set along the lines of what has happened in Zimbabwe and Kenya.
The easier stuff is just how good the F800gs has been (And how poor the 900 gsa's on tour have been) easily doing 60+mpg with a tank range over 200 miles, handling everything that has been thrown at it, from highways to bridleways. It's quick enough, a tad rough, not to say crude at times and the seat isn't the most comfortable, but it's done me proud.
The trip was organized through South African Motorcycle Adventures (SAMA) and I'd happily recommend them. The tour cost around £4500 plus a single room supplement, but that included bike hire, fuel, hotels, all of my meals, park entrance fees etc. I don't drink these days, so my spending was limited to snacks and odds and ends. I've still got over half the £250 in rand that I brought! The guides were fantastic, hotels mostly great, with two exceptions, but even those weren't too bad. The feedback loop has being going throughout, so those will now be changed.
Just a 17 hour trip home now, but another epic adventure ticked off. Now, where next........
The ride into the city saw a stop at the site of a concentration camp run by the British, where hundreds of Boers died of malnutrition and disease. Sobering, yet beautiful as it was lined with flowering jacarandas.
I think it's going to take me a while to process my thoughts about what is a beautiful, but deeply flawed country that faces some significant issues. I really do fear for the future of the country and can see the potential for a brutal re-set along the lines of what has happened in Zimbabwe and Kenya.
The easier stuff is just how good the F800gs has been (And how poor the 900 gsa's on tour have been) easily doing 60+mpg with a tank range over 200 miles, handling everything that has been thrown at it, from highways to bridleways. It's quick enough, a tad rough, not to say crude at times and the seat isn't the most comfortable, but it's done me proud.
The trip was organized through South African Motorcycle Adventures (SAMA) and I'd happily recommend them. The tour cost around £4500 plus a single room supplement, but that included bike hire, fuel, hotels, all of my meals, park entrance fees etc. I don't drink these days, so my spending was limited to snacks and odds and ends. I've still got over half the £250 in rand that I brought! The guides were fantastic, hotels mostly great, with two exceptions, but even those weren't too bad. The feedback loop has being going throughout, so those will now be changed.
Just a 17 hour trip home now, but another epic adventure ticked off. Now, where next........
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What was wrong with the 900 GSAs?
Nice trip, glad you enjoyed.
South Africa is a land of contrast.
South Africa is a land of contrast.
Both riders found them very top heavy. They were the only bikes dropped off road, both when moving slowly thankfully. User error, but once they start to go, there's no stopping them.
As someone born and raised in ZA, sorry to say its one of the best worst countries in the world! Be very careful there.After a very long flight on a huuuge A380 and another 2 hour internal flight I've just landed in Port Elizabeth. Lovely beach side hotel booked by the tour company
On the ride here, the pick up driver was pointing out the electrified razor wire surrounding all of the domestic housing estates. He was also very keen to tell me not to leave the hotel after sundown as crime here is rife and the cops largely absent. The Policing Minister here is currently mired in corruption allegations and as I was arriving, the head of the local taxi union was being executed in the middle of the road just outside town
I've been heavily recommended to go to the grill restaurant Barney's just across the road, which is apparently excellent. Walking the 100 metres there though is a no no, I'm told Uber is the best idea.
I've been all over Brazil, Thailand, Romania and never had an issue, possibly because of my "Don't feck with me" shaved head, but this seems a bit 'Next level'. Shame, as the view here is gorgeous.View attachment 444571
View attachment 444572
Pity really.
Wow looks great.
I’ve turned my thoughts to an organised S.A. trip after costs of shipping my bike ( or rental) to USA became too expensive!
Dare I ask a ball park price for such a trip.
Gravel riding isn’t my strong point though!
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I’ve turned my thoughts to an organised S.A. trip after costs of shipping my bike ( or rental) to USA became too expensive!
Dare I ask a ball park price for such a trip.
Gravel riding isn’t my strong point though!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The trip was around £4500 with a single room and the flight was around £900. I don't drink, so I took around £300 in SA currency and still had quite a bit left over at the airport. The hard drinking Aussies couldn't say the same! All the food, water, fuel etc were included, apart from a couple of lunches, but eating out isn't expensive.
