This sounds a little like a diesel, My local mechanic had a listen and seems to thing it is the timing chain tensioner not tensioning adequately. This U-tube video (similar sound), explains it was a metal water pump wheel on early examples.Anyone else hear this in their engines?
Ticking engine sound at low RPM on F650 twin
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Wow! They can achieve such high mileage!! Mine has only done 9,000 miles so very surprised to hear it sounding like that.That sounds like timing chain tensioner needs replacing. There was an upgraded longer tensioner spring introduced around 2012, I fitted one to my F800 GS at 94,500 miles and it was much quieter.
Its a really easy fix
The 800cc twin (built by Rotax) is bullet proof, been riding mine for 17 years, coming up to 110,000 miles and it still rides really well and returns 60mpg +, though it is looking a bit tatty now. The early model timing chain rattle was resolved with the new longer tension spring kit. The only other issue's I recall was replacement clutch @ 68,000, the alternator was under rated on early models and overheated mine was replaced @ 74,000 and the steering head bearings like lots of TLC...Wow! They can achieve such high mileage!! Mine has only done 9,000 miles so very surprised to hear it sounding like that.
So lots of life left in mine at 9200miles. What kind of TLC can we give head bearings other than replace them? I had to do that on my previous single when they started indexing at the straight ahead position. Common problem on those. Replaced them with SKF bearings and they lasted much longer than the originals.
Check they are well greased, if no problems just ride, if notched replace with good bearings - just my thoughts!
Agreed with Hoff above, I part exed my 08 F650 twin at 35,000 miles no issues with head bearings. My new to me bike was an F700gs (800 twin) which needed them doing at 10,000 miles. So probably depends on the amount of grease from the factory and potentially if it has been used off road.
As others have said above these Rotax engines mostly built under licence in China just go on and on. Once you sort your tensioner Im sure you will be in for miles of smiles.
As above. My first set of bearings wre replaced at 36k. I sold the bike at 75k still on that second set. Make sure they are greased properly, use decent bearings and adjust as per manual.
Motorworks stock SKF bearings for head bearings.
RadioFlyer
Registered user
SKF 320/28 X/Q
The OEM bearings go relatively quickly. The SKF bearings are much better.
The primary cause of damage is not lack of grease but rather the bearing gets brinelled by the load shocks always in the same place.
It is rare to have to replace the upper bearing if the bearings have been kept under proper tension. It's only the lower one that bears weight and takes a pounding.
Use a 4mm pin punch with a long shaft to pound the lower bearing off the steering stem.
The previous post is dead wrong when it mentions manufacturing in China. The 800cc twins have always been manufactured by ROTAX in Austria. It was the 650cc single that came to be manufactured in China.
The OEM bearings go relatively quickly. The SKF bearings are much better.
The primary cause of damage is not lack of grease but rather the bearing gets brinelled by the load shocks always in the same place.
It is rare to have to replace the upper bearing if the bearings have been kept under proper tension. It's only the lower one that bears weight and takes a pounding.
Use a 4mm pin punch with a long shaft to pound the lower bearing off the steering stem.
The previous post is dead wrong when it mentions manufacturing in China. The 800cc twins have always been manufactured by ROTAX in Austria. It was the 650cc single that came to be manufactured in China.
The primary cause is usually compounded by incorrect adjustment and lack of grease from factory. And as for the bottom bearing, correct also but why would you not replace both while you have everything apart?
RadioFlyer
Registered user
Because it is totally unnecessary if the bearing is undamaged. It doesn't undergo any discernable wear (again assuming that correct tension was maintained).
