Timing cover flaking paint... what to be done?

[Guigsy]

After my Euro trip last week, I gave the bike a good wash this afternoon. A very soft brush did this:

The annoying thing is this is a 2012 R1200GS Triple Black with only 9k miles on it. I'm the second owner and I've done most of those miles and there were already quite bad bubbles in the paint when I got it. I've added a fender extender and I'm using liberal amounts of Scottoiler365 which was always enough to keep the metal rot off of my previous bikes.

I know this has been done a million times before, but what are my options? Is there any chance BMW will touch it? It's 34 months old.

I live in a flat and the bike sits in a parking space that it has to share with my car, I can't take it to bits myself. If my best bet is to get it powder coated or re-painted, who could do it in the west midlands area, including taking it off and re-fitting?

Thanks,


Guigsy

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

If you lot harder, i bet there is a lot more engine corrosion on other parts

Strip and repaint the whole engine, the best way yo arrest it and save your bike

 

[Guigsy]

If you look lot harder, i bet there is a lot more engine corrosion on other parts

Yeah, some of the fins aren't in great shape and there are plenty of stone chips on the head covers, but the timing cover is by far the worst bit. There's a huge bubble along the bottom of the cover that'll burst at some point.

Strip and repaint the whole engine, the best way yo arrest it and save your bike

I definitely don't have the tools or space to do this! How about I start with the cover first... who would be able to sort it for me and roughly how much am I looking at?

 

[Micky]

I definitely don't have the tools or space to do this! How about I start with the cover first... who would be able to sort it for me and roughly how much am I looking at?

That corrosion didn't appear suddenly overnight, you could see it coming long before it got to that stage .... so some TLC, ACF50 or FS365 might have slowed it down, or prevented it totally

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

Tunneruk here can do it, pm him

 

[Greenman14]

Paint quality seems to be very variable. My 2012 Rally has the black engine covers and they're in perfect condition. I don't ride it much in the winter but I'm not completely anal about cleaning it either. As recommended Tunneruk will do a great job, just look at a few of his projects.

 

[Guigsy]

That corrosion didn't appear suddenly overnight, you could see it coming long before it got to that stage .... so some TLC, ACF50 or FS365 might have slowed it down, or prevented it totally

Yes, it was bubbling up when I got the bike. I've been liberally applying FS365 which has always preserved my previous bikes. I guess that once the rot had set in, it was too late.

Cheers guys, I'll try Tunneruk.

 

[Sgt Bilco]

I definitely don't have the tools or space to do this! How about I start with the cover first... who would be able to sort it for me and roughly how much am I looking at?

Contact Mikeyboy and he could do that for you no problem. He's in Melton Mowbray and get a proper bike service whilst you are there.

 

[Bendy toy]

For quite a while the problem is really not that obvious and stuff like ACF-50 has no effect. By the time you see the paint bubbling there will be some serious stuff going on. If you think it's caused by cleaning neglect, just wait until you see what's been going on under the alternator belt cover. Mine was much worse up top where it can't be cleaned than down below where it's alleged to get stone chipped.

The OEM paint is very tough but very brittle so it cracks under the screw heads and then corrosion creeps under the paint. Either have the cover powder coated or etch primed and painted. But either way, ALL of the old paint has to come off or you risk hidden corrosion continuing under the paint.

I had mine chemical dipped (BioStrip not caustic soda !!!), then etch blasted and powder coated. I've also used copper washers under the screw heads along with copper grease all the way up the screw threads. Last of all I trimmed off the thin flange on the alternator belt cover because it was fretting against the engine front cover and rubbing into the paint.

Use Loctite 518 anaerobic gasket on the joint face, not forgetting all around the oil galleries near the top. If you don't have the BMW seal fitting tool, fit the main shaft oil seal AFTER you have fitted the cover. I used electrical tape on the shaft but still managed to fold the seal lip and damaged my oil seal. Also get a new O ring for the crank position sensor and use 518 when you reassemble.

 

[Pukmeister]

Its galvanic corrosion due to dissimilar metals. Not much you can do except clean back to bare metal and recoat, then use a dielectric paint on the bolt threads before reassembly.

 

[Bendy toy]

I used the copper grease and copper washers to defeat the Aluminium-Steel battery effect. Duralac marine grade anti corrosion grease might be better.
But on mine, the top edge under the alternator had gone mad with corrosion. I believe from the bare metal joint face. Duralac spread over that would do no harm - if it doesn't melt & run.

 

[De Tonge]

What you have there is the perfect recipe for galvanic corrosion: dissimilar metals in contact with each other that is then sprayed with water and possibly road salts.

The best solution would be to have the casing anodized and then apply an epoxy powder coat over the top to seal. The anodizing oxide layer will provide a hard surface that will stop sideways corrosion under the paint if the coating gets damaged.

I would advise to use a steel fastener that has been painted or coated, then use a plastic washer not a steel one. Use an assembly chaulk in the threads like loctite.

 

[Deleted account 200502001]

If anyone wants to see examples of galvanic corrosion, have a look at a LR Defender.

 

[Cook1e]

If you don't have the BMW seal fitting tool, fit the main shaft oil seal AFTER you have fitted the cover. I used electrical tape on the shaft but still managed to fold the seal lip and damaged my oil seal.

I've only done my 1150 (chemical strip, vapour blast, etch primer, Plastikote if you're bothered...), but if the 1200 is about the same, cut a thin beer tin (I used Guinness) into a wrap-around seal guide. Sand and polish the edges until they are smooth and blunt. Pre-form the seal according to instructions and slide it on over the oiled/greased Guinness can piece which is covering the threads and lips.

Good luck

 

[TLSgazza]

Contact Mikeyboy and he could do that for you no problem. He's in Melton Mowbray and get a proper bike service whilst you are there.

Agreed, Mikeyboy did mine, lovely job and reasonably priced,

 

[agent2494]

Had my 63 plate GSA ACF50 twice a year and still looking new with the odd little corrosion on the wheels


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[Nice 'n' Fat]

My 06 GSA with 57k on the clock only ever sprayed with FS365 after being washed off with Muc-Off using a pressure washer

 

[thebuyer]

If anyone wants to see examples of galvanic corrosion, have a look at a LR Defender.

Would like to see that ... Do you know anyone who owns one !!!!!

 

[Deleted account 200502001]

Would like to see that ... Do you know anyone who owns one !!!!!

I'd drive it over to show you, but I've heard your road is barricaded with hawthorne clippings?

 

[Bendy toy]

Had my 63 plate GSA ACF50 twice a year and still looking new with the odd little corrosion on the wheels

My spare cast wheels had just a little visible paint bubbling, but having already seen how the front cover was failing I had them stripped, blasted and powder coated. The few visible spots of corrosion had spread into areas the size of a 50p coin and some were a lot worse. Catching them early avoided any unsightly pitting.

Chemical stripping is the only option because the OEM paint is so hard.