To Orkney - The long way up

[DollyRocket]

I thought you may want to see some pics of my recent trip to search for my family roots in Orkney. As a regular rider to Scotland I thought i would go that bit further and take the GS all the way to one of the most northerly islands in Orkney, Westray, where my family originates from in the hope that I may be able to find out where my grandparents lived.

First off, Loaded the bike up with my gear (was staying in hotels/travelsplodges and rented houses so no need for a tent!) My wife was going to fly up a couple of days later so I had to take up her helmet and riding gear.

Day 1 :

The first day was mainly motorway just to get it all under my belt ready to make the most of my short time in Scotland before the ferry.

440 Miles. Left home @9.30 - arrived at Dumbarton TravelSplodge at 6.00 with a couple of stops for fuel. I averaged about 75mph on the motorway and got about 52mpg. I even filled up on super unleaded 97RON at one service station to see if it made any difference - Generally not noticable on power or economy but the engine did feel to rev a little free-er and was a bit quieter (but it could be me specifically looking for differences).

Day 2 :

Bright and early the next day.

Just north of Cranlariach on the A82. It is about here that the ABS lights start flashing on the bike, but I still have brakes so I ignore them - I find out what was wrong later (see another thread).

The A82 is a haven for motorcyclists, it has the best scenery IMO and especially on a dull day when the clouds start to roll in around you. This took me a couple of very pleasant hours to complete, I stopped off at the top of the Hill at the layby and got chatting to a load of other bikers - nearly all of them were doing LeJog! Something for another time I think. I needed to push on since I was due in Inverness for lunch and still had about 100 miles to do.

This is just beside Loch Ness, typically raining. This is as far as I have been around Scotland before, so everything from here was new roads to me. ABS still flashing and headlight bulb blown. . Managed to find a Halfords in Inverness and got royally ripped off - £15 for a bulb ! But it was raining and I had only my side lights or main beam. Bought a burger from the catering van in the carpark next to B&Q - I would avoid in future.

 

[DollyRocket]

Day 2 : 13:30

Now heading towards Ullapool. Raining quite heavy with a lot of spray (Still didn't stop coaches overtaking cars infront of me.)

This one is just south of Ullapool just outside Cambellton. Rain stopped (hooray), ABS still broken. I pulled in to refuel at the garage just inside Ullapool and happen to look at their spare parts - They have exactly the same bulb in Bosch packaging for £4.50.

Didn't have much time to stop and look around - shame really it looks a real pretty village. Headed on out the other side, up the west coast.

Lost. At Ledmore Junction and didn't know which way to go. Get the map out and all the cars, caravans, trucks and coaches that I passed earlier on all come by again

This part of the trip was brilliant - Sun was out, roads were dry and virtually empty apart from the odd campervan that was swiftly dealt with. It was so good I missed the turning and ended up going down into Lochinver.

As one that doesn't like to turn around and retrace my footsteps I decided to follow the single track coastal road back to the 'main' road. This must have been the best diversion I have ever taken. This trail was superb (also voted highly by tossers in other threads). Steep ascents and hairpin descents. I only took a couple of pictures.

Beautiful hidden golden and sandy beaches. {there is a beach down there - honest !}

Back onto the main road for the last stretch. ABS started working now - I thought the bike must be liking it too much and decided to stop being a martyr.

This last stretch is mainly all single track road with passing places, all drivers I encountered all pulled over to let me pass (except the sheep roaming the roads - Glad the ABS was working again as it did kick in!)

This photo was taken just prior to coming down the hill into Tongue. The weather up in Scotland is so unpredictable, where the bike was parked = no-rain, 5 metres to the left = falling as stair-rods. In hindsight, I wished I took this leg much slower, this stretch of single track road (approx 100 miles) passed through some of the most picturesque parts of the northern coast of Scotland - Next time.

Before the ferry, I had just enough time to get to JOG and Duncansby Head. {The oil on the floor wasn't mine!} 870 miles in total in the two days so far.

 

[DollyRocket]

I had a little time to quickly stop off at Dounreay Nuclear reactor, Personally being a scientist I thought this was just as elegant and magnificent as the mountains it is built beside, but I doubt people will agree.

The visitors centre was closed - boo.

Just in time to catch the ferry across to Stromness. Northlink appear to be a professional outfit with a really high spec ship - bit pricey though (£78 return) but they certainly strap the bike down well (compared to the Dover/Calais lot). ABS started flashing again {maybe it was scared about the crossing?}

The crossing passes close to the Old man of Hoy which completely dwarfs the ship. The lifeboat seemed to be playing around bouncing in the wake of the ferry.

Arrived in Stromness at about lunchtime. The mainland island is quite long but not very wide which meant that the journey to Kirkwall was taken with me hanging off the side of the bike to prevent it being blown off-course by the gales coming in from the North Sea.

Kirkwall in the distance.

 

[DollyRocket]

While you are there, you need to see the neolithic standing stones of Stenness and the Ring of Brogar.

Although, I am told that it is only good luck if you touch every single one.

The end of a long day. We rented an apartment for a week in a place called sebay mill - Very high standard and really comfortable.

http://www.sebaymill.co.uk/

The roads in Orkney were all well surfaced and in many cases with *long* straight sections which made overtaking a doddle. Petrol was a bit pricey, I filled up in Thurso at 112p/litre and in Kirkwall it was 125p/litre for unleaded.

Took yet another ferry to Westray for a day trip. Well worth it (even though the puffins and seals left the week before). The best bit was Noup Head Lighthouse which is at the end of a 2 mile deeply rutted gravel track (I wish I had the agility of the green laner for that bit - Successfully negotiated and was well worth it to see the spectacular scenery.

It would appear Westray is completely devoid of health and safety legislation, you can walk right up to the edge of the cliffs with no fences or restrictions - Brilliant.

 

[DollyRocket]

Some dusk runs around the island (ABS working again now)

The Churchill barrier can just be seen protecting Scapa Flow

You can just make out the remains of one of the sunken block ships which is a divers haven.

The hidden beach behind the cemetary at Stromness, you can get your bikes down onto the sand here, I was too chicken to try it though - mainly because I had to catch the ferry back 1 hour after the picture was taken.

Back on the mainland, I zipped down the A9 {only saw 2 scameras} . But had to stop off at the Forth Bridges for a pic.

All in all 1900 Miles in a week, with the trip from Inverness to Basingstoke (600 miles) being the most I have done in a day. About £190 in fuel which works out as about 10p per mile (or 45mpg at current prices)

Best trip so far........

 

[Deleted account 210609001]

Nice report. Great photos.

 

[millard]

(I wish I had the agility of the green laner for that bit

BULLSHIT,,, I've seen you off road an can't keep up.
Nice pics Mike

 

[Aidan1150]

Nice report DR. Thanks for posting.

 

[Ash]

Nice report DR. Thanks for posting.

+1
PS
has one been shopping in Camp Hopsons

 

[DollyRocket]

blimey - you can spot a 'sale' shopping bag at a thousand paces. You're right, Mrs R's favourite shop (unfortunately she works just around the corner!)

Mike

 

[Ash]

blimey - you can spot a 'sale' shopping bag at a thousand paces. You're right, Mrs R's favourite shop (unfortunately she works just around the corner!)

Mike

 

[sijohnston]

thanks for the photos. my family hales from there originally too and i've enjoyed many of the places you mention. i used to surf thurso frequently too and was disappointed you didn't get any shots of the reefs just to see if any of my old mates were out. as for dounreay being as attractive as some of the countryside, i too am/was a scientist and i think you're in need of help!!!

 

[GS TRV]

nice shots

 

[zerocool]

Really nice detailed writeup.

While westray is a nice island I would have recommended Rousay.

Not is it the Island I was born and spent my childhood on (ovbiously the most important reason for you to visit there), but it also contains the densest amount of historic places of interest in the small area of the island than anywhere else in Scotland. There is a few days worth of stuff to do, and the island tours are brilliant.

The folk are brill and a visit to the resturant or island pub will end in a jolly night or 5, additional it contains several RSPB conservation areas including Trumland and the waters in the centre of the island.

Nearby islands of Egilsay, Wyre and Eynhallow have yet more historic sites and fantastic wildlife and views. Eynhallow has a population of 0 and about 500 sheep but if you chat with the guys at the pier for a small amount they would take you out there for an evening. Seeing the seals on Eynhallow coming to welcome you to the island is possibly one of the best experiences I had in Orkney, there is literally THOUSANDS!!!

There are several ferries a day commuting to Egilsay and Wyre.

Im going up soon, in the first few weeks of October

 

[Pumpy]

Beautiful pictures - thanks for sharing!

 

[RadioActive]

Thanks for the writeup and great photos

 

[Dave56]

WOW....How spectacular are those cliffs.
Thanks for that Dollyrocket, really enjoyed it, great set of pics. Going up to Scotland myself a week on Monday, this has really wetted my appetite.

 

[DollyRocket]

Glad you liked the pics - I have a load more but that would spoil it for you when you go and visit it for yourself

The cliff shot is on the northerly part of Westray - If you get the chance to go across..... I hope to go back next year and take it a bit slower so I can see and experience more - hopefully visit the other islands too.

Scotland has so much to offer without the hassle of having to exchange your money to euros *!

Mike

*Assuming the weather is not abysmal.

 

[Jon]

Does the ferry into Stromness still go past the wreck of the Inverlane? (One of the block ships sunk to protect that particular entrance, that didn't do that good a job as Günter Prien slipped past it to sink the Royal Oak). Always makes a good view & a cracking photo.

Fond memories of mooring up to the Inverlane, walking on board with the dive gear and then dropping down into the water through the pump house, diving the wreck and playing with the seals

Fuzzy memories of always staying up there during "Shopping Week" and staggering back to the boat of an evening

Top place.

 

[DollyRocket]

A guy I work with is a seasoned diver and he said it disintegrated completely a few years ago. http://atschool.eduweb.co.uk/jralston/rk/scapa/wrecks/inver.html