Warthog
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A summary of my findings inc case its useful to any others out there.
A while ago, I bought Snoopy's Y piece and got it Dyno'ed with a remus and got a slightly lean verdict, but nothing to worry about according to the techie. I checked the plugs and found them to be quite white, so I replaced the end can with the original, to increase back pressure and hopefully allow the lamda probe the time to measure the O2 levels.
After that the bike would back fire quite spectacularly on the over-run. So, I silicon-sealed all the joins at both ends of the Y piece, and changed the air filter. I then went out with a "Steptoe link" cable and proceeded to cover 180miles in 30 mile increments to try different cat-code combinations. Revs were kept at 5000 for the duration. Then the kill switch was flipped and I stopped on the hard shoulder: seat off, plug out and check colour. From engine dead to plug out about 90 seconds tops.
HTH
For all my combinations I refer to the connections as either hours on a clock face or by the numbers they correspond to on the bottom of the Golden yellow CCP. My R1150GS has contacts for cat codes in the middle of the white panel that you slip the CCP into as well as at 12, 3, and 6 (Where 12 o'clock is top middle toward the front of the bike and where 6 is middle toward the rear).
These correspond to the folllowing relay contacts on the bottom of the CCP itself. 12 O'clock is 87 on the CCP, 3 is 30, 86 is 6 and the middle contact is 87a
Cat code in place: 12 connected to 3 or 87-30. This ran OK, seemed a bit feeble, but only an impression. Did back fire a lot on the over-run especially at higher revs. Plug looked light in colour, but not white. Area around electrode light shade: not quite tan or grey, though: slightly lean?
No CCP: Similar running only fewer backfires. Plug colour: no discernable difference.
First Steptoe link: 87a-30 or middle to 3. Same as the one shown in the cat code link threads. Ran better: fewer back fires: semed to pull well. Slightly stronger torque than other two combinations IMO.
87-87a or middle to 12: Not too good. Found that it bogged down at low revs (too rich?). Did n't like that one, so did wait for a plug inspection.
87a-86 or middle to 6: Good running. No back firing and the plug looked cleaner and erring toward a grey-tan shade. Enamel core at the base of the central electrode was tan brown.
87-86 or 12 to 6: so-so performance. Not bad nor good. Did pop at low revs though, but did not bog down.
30-86 or 3 to 6: Nothing of note here either. Popped like all the others, but not excessively. Crap traffic meant a plug inspection was no use as I could only keep constant revs, without doing 5000 in first all the way home, for a few minutes at a time.
For now, I'm sticking with 87a-86 or middle to 6 and I'll try and squeeze in a Dyno for that one later.
So there you go. Not very scientific, and probably not executed as well as it could have been, but its my first plug chop and it did show me some differences that were useful. Hope its useful to some of you too.
A while ago, I bought Snoopy's Y piece and got it Dyno'ed with a remus and got a slightly lean verdict, but nothing to worry about according to the techie. I checked the plugs and found them to be quite white, so I replaced the end can with the original, to increase back pressure and hopefully allow the lamda probe the time to measure the O2 levels.
After that the bike would back fire quite spectacularly on the over-run. So, I silicon-sealed all the joins at both ends of the Y piece, and changed the air filter. I then went out with a "Steptoe link" cable and proceeded to cover 180miles in 30 mile increments to try different cat-code combinations. Revs were kept at 5000 for the duration. Then the kill switch was flipped and I stopped on the hard shoulder: seat off, plug out and check colour. From engine dead to plug out about 90 seconds tops.
HTH
For all my combinations I refer to the connections as either hours on a clock face or by the numbers they correspond to on the bottom of the Golden yellow CCP. My R1150GS has contacts for cat codes in the middle of the white panel that you slip the CCP into as well as at 12, 3, and 6 (Where 12 o'clock is top middle toward the front of the bike and where 6 is middle toward the rear).
These correspond to the folllowing relay contacts on the bottom of the CCP itself. 12 O'clock is 87 on the CCP, 3 is 30, 86 is 6 and the middle contact is 87a
Cat code in place: 12 connected to 3 or 87-30. This ran OK, seemed a bit feeble, but only an impression. Did back fire a lot on the over-run especially at higher revs. Plug looked light in colour, but not white. Area around electrode light shade: not quite tan or grey, though: slightly lean?
No CCP: Similar running only fewer backfires. Plug colour: no discernable difference.
First Steptoe link: 87a-30 or middle to 3. Same as the one shown in the cat code link threads. Ran better: fewer back fires: semed to pull well. Slightly stronger torque than other two combinations IMO.
87-87a or middle to 12: Not too good. Found that it bogged down at low revs (too rich?). Did n't like that one, so did wait for a plug inspection.
87a-86 or middle to 6: Good running. No back firing and the plug looked cleaner and erring toward a grey-tan shade. Enamel core at the base of the central electrode was tan brown.
87-86 or 12 to 6: so-so performance. Not bad nor good. Did pop at low revs though, but did not bog down.
30-86 or 3 to 6: Nothing of note here either. Popped like all the others, but not excessively. Crap traffic meant a plug inspection was no use as I could only keep constant revs, without doing 5000 in first all the way home, for a few minutes at a time.
For now, I'm sticking with 87a-86 or middle to 6 and I'll try and squeeze in a Dyno for that one later.
So there you go. Not very scientific, and probably not executed as well as it could have been, but its my first plug chop and it did show me some differences that were useful. Hope its useful to some of you too.
