Torque Wrench? big, small, posh or poor?

justinguitar

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So I just ordered crash bars and fitting instructions seem to require a torque wrench.

I don't have said item and after a quick google (and a forum search to see if this dumb questions was asked before, but to no avail) it seems they run from Draper ones for about £30 to Snap-on for £600!!! :eek:

And have a range of Nm settings... seems instructions speak of ranges from 6-30Nm, but maybe I need higher for other things???

Can someone please recommend me on that will be good for basic pull apart and putting together of the bike and adding bits here and there...

Many thanks in advance.
 
hi m8 .

just goto halfords and buy two . one 3/8 drive for the majority of bike bolts and a 1/2 inch for the big bolts.

make sure the 3/8 drive will go down to a min of 10lbft anything less than that you can guess by hand.
 
if its only for crash bars dont bother.... unless you are a 1200 owner and cant tell difference between nip up and tight, oh and common sense :comfort
 
I agree with Swissrob - unless it's for something a bit more critical like cylinder head nuts, just go with your feel and I'm sure they'll be fine.

PG
 
If you do buy one consider getting a 1/4 inch one as well with very low settings. Very handy on a bike.
 
please don't laugh...

but I thought one torque wrench would take many different attachments on the end for different sized bolts.

So why might I need a 3/8 a 1/2 and a 1/4??

Different Torque settings, or each will take different attachments?

Apologies if this seems really stupid... I'm handy with DIY but shite with mechanics, but planning on rectifying that.
 
:comfort

The reason for differing sizes comes down to what torque you wish to apply.
For small fastners (M6 and below) a small 1/4 or 3/8" drive wrench will suffice, but for higher torques you want something a little more beefy.

Most modern torque wrnches rely on compressing a spring, so if you are using a wrench at the extremes of its range then the accuracy is somewhat doubtfull. So by having more than 1 wrench you are keeping things in the sweet spot.

Point to note
Do not leave the wrench set to a given torque, allways back the sping off so as to keep accuracy.

HTH
Neil
 
When I was a wee lad, feckin long time ago mind, I sheared a head bolt on my Triumph T100 just before we were all off for the regular Sunday Brighton run. Gutted.

My dad, who was a dockyard fitter at the time, cut one of my ring spanners in half and left the end all jagged and sharp. Now he said "you tighten the bolt with that and when it starts to hurt your bleedin hand, then it's tight enough"!!!

He was spot on, I got to know the "feel of tight enough", so I only use a torque wrench now on absolutely critical items.:beerjug:
 
Go to Machine Mart and give ChavFords a miss. You'll save a small fortune for something that works just as well. I have the 1/4 low range for clutch bolts and the high range swingarm & final drive parts. Everything in between is done with standard tools or the bike's tool kit.

Tip: If you use the bikes' tools kit you'll always be able to use it successfully away from home and will not need the special tools to achieve accuracy, and you will soon realise that you don't have to be concerned about the whole issue. :thumb
 
First, what NOT to buy. there is no point in buying top of the range tools such as snap on. You just wont use it enough to make it worth buying.
As an ex-mechanic i now usually buy tools from the halfords professional range, this is a good range of tools with a full on guarantee, and the torque wrenches come with test certificate (not that his is an issue).
Before you buy anything, make sure it covers the range you need. Off the top of my head, i would think the 3/8 inch drive will be best for a bike. BUT. make sure you have sockets of the correct drive size to fit, or you will need an adapter. Forinstance, you may need a 3/8 to 1/2 inch , or a 3/8 to 1/4 one.
Finally, the most important thing is to get a Halfords trade card. This saves loads of money on tool purchases.
 


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