Touratec halogen lights, trigger line issue

[jp-speed-triple]

Hi.

I've just reinstalled the wiring on my touratec halogen 'spot' lights.

they came fitted to the bike I just bought but didn't work. In taking the panels off and seeing the state of the wiring I'm not surprised.

Shocking thing is they had been BMW dealer fitted for the original owner. I still can't believe the insulation tape, twisted wires used, not to mention the cheapy 'halfords' rocker switch which would struggle to stay dry in the desert.

Anyway. switch disconnected, and despite its shonky nature, the power routing seemed correct. So it was just replaced with decent wire, shrouding, joints, proper waterproof switch, etc. they now work....although there is an issue.

The trigger wire upto the switch seems to have a mind of its own. Ignition off, its off. Ignition on, its on. Ignition off again, its on for about 3 minutes and then its off.

I've read somewhere that there is an AUX circuit on the bike that allows GPS, phone chargers etc, to remain on for a while before cutting out. to stop them shutting down if the bike stalls etc. I assume this is the feed from that? Or is it something else?

If this IS the circuit, then I question WHY the dealer would use it to trigger the AUX lighting??

Secondly, somewhat randomly, when the bike is running. the trigger line goes off again. A re-start of the bike sorts it out and it tends to stay on....This is regardless of if the lights are running or not, so its not current draw related.

Anyone got a suggestion before I tear all this out and start again?

 

[The Bede]

... The trigger wire upto the switch seems to have a mind of its own. Ignition off, its off. Ignition on, its on. Ignition off again, its on for about 3 minutes and then its off.

... The circuit is triggered to go 'live' from a connection to the can-bus. The can-bus remains active for a minute (that feels like three) after the ignition is shut off.

... Secondly, somewhat randomly, when the bike is running. the trigger line goes off again. A re-start of the bike sorts it out and it tends to stay on....This is regardless of if the lights are running or not, so its not current draw related.

... The can-bus can be a bit temperamental, and can easily 'overload' in this weather when heated grips are in regular use. It may well be that the dealer has powered the whole shebang from the can-bus which will put you close to overload territory. If so I would recommend a Centech AP-1 fuse panel drawing directly from the battery (sourced from Nippy Norma's)

... I don't know if there's anyway to adjust the Can-bus 'trip' level, but I seem to remember being told it can only handle 5amps.

... Anyone got a suggestion before I tear all this out and start again?

... If you only want the lights switchable when the OEM running lights are active, change the trigger from it's existing connection (I suspect you'll be connected either to the underseat DIN socket, tail-lamp, or the 'side-light' in the headlamp pod).

... I use spot-light triggers from the behind the dip and main beam bulb holders*. You can feed wires through the rubber ventilation 'tittettes' on the back of the headlamp housing, carefully cut back a few mm of insulation from the main bean cable and solder on the trigger wire. A wrap of self-amalgamating tape and Robert's your father's brother!


... *As shown to me by the revered BTBR

 

[John Armstrong]

The trigger wire upto the switch seems to have a mind of its own. Ignition off, its off. Ignition on, its on. Ignition off again, its on for about 3 minutes and then its off.

I've read somewhere that there is an AUX circuit on the bike that allows GPS, phone chargers etc, to remain on for a while before cutting out. to stop them shutting down if the bike stalls etc. I assume this is the feed from that? Or is it something else? Sounds like the accessory socket / canbus socket timing

If this IS the circuit, then I question WHY the dealer would use it to trigger the AUX lighting?? Laziness?

Secondly, somewhat randomly, when the bike is running. the trigger line goes off again. A re-start of the bike sorts it out and it tends to stay on....This is regardless of if the lights are running or not, so its not current draw related. I'd guess by switching the ignition off will reset an overloaded accessory socket. IIRC it's not unknown for the accessory socket to get a mind of its own

Anyone got a suggestion before I tear all this out and start again?

Use an autoswitch, but please don't ask me how

 

[swissrob]

take the trigger feed from the sidelight, sounds like they have used the accessory socket 4 some reason

 

[Geordie Steve]

Hmmm, I would recommend taking the power from the dipped headlight rather than the sidelight (IE parking light), because the parking light comes on with the ignition whereas the headlight only comes on when the engine starts up. Also of course, the parking light can remain on after the ignition is switched off.

I would also humbly suggest that you use a 'piggyback' type spade connector to connect the power trip wire to the back of the headlight. Saves cutting & soldering into the original wiring and you can put everything back to standard easily.

 

[jp-speed-triple]

Any idea how long the ECU takes to go to sleep once the ignition is off?

I think I've opened a can of worms here. Came to the bike last night to discover a flat battery. Been running a metre on it this morning and it appears to be pulling current for AGES with no systems on.

Any input?

JP

 

[John Armstrong]

Any idea how long the ECU takes to go to sleep once the ignition is off?

I think I've opened a can of worms here. Came to the bike last night to discover a flat battery. Been running a metre on it this morning and it appears to be pulling current for AGES with no systems on.

Any input?

Got an alarm fitted? Use a Quest on the bike?

IIRC there has been at least one case of either faulty software, or ECU that meant you woke up to a flat battery. Best charge the battery up and get it to someone who has the necessary diagnostic equipment if there's no external reason for the battery going flat. And the battery is resonably new.

 

[MattW]

In addition to the above, if you've flattened your battery you've effectively killed it - the capacity will be irrecoverably reduced and no charger (no matter how clever) will bring it back to it's rated capacity.

 

[The Bede]

Hmmm, I would recommend taking the power from the dipped headlight rather than the sidelight (IE parking light), because the parking light comes on with the ignition whereas the headlight only comes on when the engine starts up.

... Wot 'ee said

Also of course, the parking light can remain on after the ignition is switched off.

... Parking light only remains on if you press and hold the left indicator for a few secs (3 ) immediately after switching the ignition off

I would also humbly suggest that you use a 'piggyback' type spade connector to connect the power trip wire to the back of the headlight. Saves cutting & soldering into the original wiring and you can put everything back to standard easily.

... Yer a bit pushed for space behind the bulb connector in the headlamp housing.
... Avoid snap-lock piggyback connectors they're shite and can leave you with either intermittent connection, or they slice through the headlamp power cable completely.

... If you're careful, pare back the insulation on the power wire with a scalpel, create an 'eye' of conductor and uncut insulation. Thread and wrap the trigger wire around the conductor through the eye. Dab of solder, but make sure you use enough to get through the trigger wire strands and solder to the power cable. Wrap tight with self-amalgamating tape* and if you're really posh cover with fabric electrical tape*, PVC tape goes all gooey in the heat.

... * Found on-line through Auto Electric supplies, Maplins sometimes have some too.

 

[Geordie Steve]

... Yer a bit pushed for space behind the bulb connector in the headlamp housing.
... Avoid snap-lock piggyback connectors they're shite and can leave you with either intermittent connection, or they slice through the headlamp power cable completely.

Totally agree. But there is room inside the headlamp housing - I managed it by making up a couple of short link wires to go between the back of the bulb and the piggyback connector. The whole lot then coils up inside the housing just fine. It's a bit of hassle making up all those extra crimps (not snap-lock! ) but it seemed to me like less hassle than cutting into the bike wiring and getting in there with the soldering iron.

 

[jp-speed-triple]

I assume the ECU doesn' then crap itself and tell there is a bulb fault?

Was my only concern ove this route.

Seems there is a fault on this AUX circuit. was leaving a risidual current draw, preventing the ECU from shutting down. Once that was disconnected, the ECu was snoring nicely.

Rewired the whole thing again and its now failed completely, so at least I now know that there is a permanent fault, not an impossible to find niggle!!



JP