Transmission boots.

Yes.

Drop the final drive, pull the drive shaft, remove old boot.

Replace boot onto swinging arm end, re-fit shaft... swearing a lot, pinching fingers, swearing some more etc. fit boot onto gearbox..

a small allen key to pull the boot over the lip helps...

Did Mention swearing a lot and pinching fingers?

But yes. You can.

Roger.
 
I got mine on with a long blunt screwdriver to push and persuade the clips into place from the near side the go to the offside (drive side) to work it a bit further. Then back & forth until it dropped in. Much easier with two people.


Sent somehow.
 
Being honest! Yes, you can do it this way "but" it's fiddly! DAMN FIDDLY!

I recommend getting the swingarm out because at that time you can grease up the right hand pin and Hopefully your left side pin is not seized in!

Also dismount the FD and grease up the needle roller bearings at the pivot underneath!

Believe me! You WILL thank me, should you still have the bike in a couple of years and need to do this! OR have some one do a clutch for you!

Grease propshaft splines etc whilst dismantled

Check the brake disc carrier for cracking around brake disc bolt holes
 
Very true the splines quickly run dry and rolling element bearings don't like rocking motions - the grease gets rubbed away from the rollers.


Sent somehow.
 
If you do them annually Ordinary Grease on pivots and the splines it should be stuff called Optimoly TA frm memory

But lets face it some grease is better than no grease so If you have sachets of CV joint grease get it in there! :aidan

If you are doing the FD at this time? I now recommend (and use in my own bike 75W140 GL5 spec oil for the FD

Pssst if you are going to change the FD oil order a couple of Speed sensor o rings :rob

Don't want to start another discussion, but, any particular grease?
 
Also consider drilling a drain hole at the rear bottom of the swing arm. Smear the newly bare metal with your fave anti corrosion grease to help avoid corrosion getting under the paint.
 


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