Trip down the West coast - Day 1

[Scott_Dog]

Couple of weeks ago I took the chance of a few days to see parts of the west coast of Scotland I’d not seen before. The idea was to go north of Inverness and hit the west coast then travel south staying as close to the coast as I could, onto Skye and then home via Mallaig.

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Set off on the 30th April heading through Blairgowrie, Bridge of Cally and on to Pitlochry. Passed a war memorial I’ve always wanted to look at on the hills above Pitlochry. My great uncle left his farm in Canada and got himself killed at Vimy Ridge in WW1, so I’ve become fascinated by why people living in remote areas who would never have travelled far should then feel strongly enough to go off to war. Set in a beautiful glen at Tarvie, the memorial is well tended.

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Followed the old road beside the A9 from Pitlochry through Killiecrankie, and onto the A9 near Blair Atholl, exiting to A889 and then the A86 at Dalwhinnie. The A86 is a great road, long sweeping bends, great scenery, and when I went, light traffic. Down the side of Loch Laggan stopping for a picture at the dam.

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Late breakfast at the Little Chef in Spean Bridge and on to the Commando Memorial.

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Again, seen it many times from the road, never stopped. Impressive memorial set in impressive country where these guys trained in WW2, and then you realise that the memorial garden has flowers and plaques to commandos being killed today, seems to bring it home with a bump – this almost romantic memorial to WW2 heroes still serving as a memorial for today’s heroes.

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Followed the A82 alongside the Caledonian canal, through Fort Augustus and turned onto the A831 just past Urqhart castle on Loch Ness.

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The road loops up to Beauly and on to Dingwall to refuel. The scenery is stunning and the roads good despite the winter with great views out to the Dornoch Firth.

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Stop just past Dingwall after rejoining the A9 for lunch at a farm restaurant, very busy, very good. Continue on B9176 which meanders northward to Bonar Bridge and the A836 then up the north side of Loch Shin to Laxford bridge, chosen at random as a start point for turning south, the map shows a place, when you get there it’s just that, a bridge!

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The road though is a revelation, nice surface but single track and deserted – and this is the main road west in these parts!

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Turn south and follow the coast road towards Lochinver where I’m hoping to find somewhere to stay.
Go over the Kylesku bridge and find a memorial to mini-sub drivers who trained here and went on to do daring deeds in WW2.

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Lochinver

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Once settled into Ed’s Dutch flavoured B&B, head into town for a meal at the nearest pub (excellent seafood), couple of pints and back to bed.

 

[Mr K]

Lovely!

 

[Scott_Dog]

Day 2

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Next morning set off south heading for Applecross where I’ve made the only booking of the trip for Saturday night. From Lochinver it’s all single tracks and great views, either to the sea or to the mountains depending which way your head turns.

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Head for Auchiltiebuie for coffee and do the loop around the peninsular dodging the sheep, then head on towards Ullapool where I meet loads of BMW’s which I’m told are part of a group of 200 from Ireland on a week’s touring.

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The road south from Ullapool seems very broad after the single tracks to it, and I meet a couple of bikes really giving it welly, always seems a bit scary when they’re weaving slightly over the bumps! Continue south and then NW on the A832 heading for a stop at the Gairloch. I’ve been here before and think it’s a really pretty town, never seen it in mid-winter though! On down the side of Lochs Maree and then Torridon hugging the coast road round to Applecross.

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I’ve read and been told loads about the Applecross Inn – it’s true – great place, nice folks good food, brilliant views to Skye, what else could you want? Also met Gas Boy who’s on UKGSER, between us conspired to develop a nice hangover in the morning!

 

[Schtum]

Very nice.... If you haven't done so already, I'd nip over to Adv Rider and post it on Ride Reports. I'm sure the Merkins will appreciate it.

 

[Scott_Dog]

Good idea - will do.

 

[Scott_Dog]

Day 3

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Set off into the freezing cold heading for the Pass of the Cattle, when I got there it had snowed! Stunning views though, and the pass itself is magic.

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Then a nice windy run down and on to Strathcarron and the coastal road to the Skye Bridge. The route proved a winner again with fantastic views out to Skye and a wee side trip into picturesque Plockton.

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A stop for fuel and over the bridge to Skye, my first time here, and today I plan to circumnavigate it clockwise, so on to Sconser for coffee and then the A863 westwards.

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I take the little road out to Colbost to see the Three Chimneys Restaurant, but chicken out of paying for lunch – wish I had now.

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Back to Dunvegan to an average sandwich and a beer. Continue east then take the little road out to the point at Trumpan, turn around and back onto the main road to Portree, tonight’s stop. I found the top of Skye flat and featureless and without the views towards the sea and the little islands, there wasn’t much to commend it, to me anyway.

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Either way, keeping to the coast I take the northern loop of the A855 through Uig and Balmaqueen and into Portree where the Royal Hotel has rooms available. Showered, refreshed and out to wander the town, reminds me of Tobermory a lot.

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After even more great seafood it’s a beer in the hotel bar and bed.

 

[Scott_Dog]

Day 4

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From Portree I’m running down to the SW corner of Skye to catch the ferry at Armadale over to Mallaig.

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The run down is uneventful, but overcast, the ferry’s on time, and the natives are friendly with a bit of banter with the crew.

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Take the new-ish road to Fort William, but turn onto the A861 to go down the west side of Loch Linnhe. Some A-road, it’s narrower and windier than the single track roads further north, as well has having some suicide junkies in bit 4x4’s.
Fort William, from the other side of Loch Linnhe

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Unscathed I get to the Corran ferry just as it’s returning to my side, small queue of cars and four bikes and we’re off, takes about 10 minutes and ride off again!

<a href="http://s384.photobucket.com/albums/oo283/scott_dog/West%20Coast%20May%202010/?action=view&current=DSC03111.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i384.photobucket.com/albums/oo283/scott_dog/West%20Coast%20May%202010/DSC03111.jpg" border="0" alt="Corran Ferry"></a>

Now I’m on well known roads and it’s a blast home with the mandatory stop at the Green Welly in Tyndrum. I was there four weeks before and there wasn’t a bike to be seen, today there must be over 100, the bike park’s full and we’re in the main park fighting with the buses!

<a href="http://s384.photobucket.com/albums/oo283/scott_dog/West%20Coast%20May%202010/?action=view&current=DSC03112.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i384.photobucket.com/albums/oo283/scott_dog/West%20Coast%20May%202010/DSC03112.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Get home having done a total of 863 miles of some beautiful country, and I’d been lucky with the weather only seeing a couple of showers the whole time. We really do have some of the best in our own country, we should go and see more of it.

 

[Racey]

Couldn't agree more... Inspiring... I'll get a map and plan to see an area I've never seen before...

Thank you for being the catalyst. One doesn't have to always look to far flung shores (but that too is fun !) we have some sensational stuff right here as you say...

I'll rectify the gap in my explorations this autumn I think...

 

[Aidan1150]

I'll rectify the gap in my explorations this autumn I think...

See that you do Simon, it's a cracking country to ride in, especially on a GS.


Thanks for the report SD.

 

[gbpot]

Great report SD. And fab pics.
Have'nt been up that far for a long time. You've just made me want to do it.
Ta.
Gav

 

[Ash]

great report

 

[(RIP) petcul]

Some good shots

 

[BegesRus]

Brilliant - but a cana be daine wi the cowld weather

 

[boatman]

good write up for your trip there! I am going up there in a couple o weeks!!!!!! n i am now even more looking forward to it
cheers!!

 

[garfield]

ridden those roads a few times and spotted a couple of things I hadn't noticed before, nice one.....

 

[wully]

Nice one Scott, were you not tempted to take a wee trip down to Groovy Craobh-y for old times sake?

 

[Scott_Dog]

A trip too far, Bill! Might be over that way later in the summer though.

??Tea Boy??