Ride report – California in 8 days
Our plan was to take in some of the highlights of California over a period of 8 days and 1600 miles, starting and finishing in San Francisco. I did the journey on a R1250GS Rallye, hired from Eaglerider in San Francisco. The itinerary took us down the coast to Monterey, Carmel by the Sea, San Luis Obispo, and then across the Sierra Nevada’s to Lake Tahoe. From then, north to Red Bluff, and then back down the coast to Fortuna, Bodega Bay and finally back across the Golden Gate Bridge to San Francisco. We had scheduled 8 days to do the trip, starting late May and ending in June.
Air travel with a helmet
I hand carried my helmet on the Virgin flight with a seperate small rucksack. The cabin crew could not have cared less and no-one challenged me at all. Easy
Pickup at Eagle Rider
The San Francisco outlet for Eagle Rider is not a particularly impressive location. Located in a rather ramshackle garage which was seemingly once a Harley Davidson outlet, most of the expansive facility is empty. When I arrived, the bike was parked outside and was filthy, having only been dropped off a think a few hours earlier by the previous lessor. The bike was fitted with a rather battered set of Vario Panniers, no top box, but the all important sat nav preparation in place. I set to work with a pair of 14mm spanners to fit a Ram mount to the mirror and added the Connected Ride Cradle. The tyres were clearly getting towards the end of life, a concern when I knew we would be putting a lot of mileage on the bikes. I was told by the largely disinterested manager to “just visit the nearest Motorrad shop and get them changed” if I needed to. I chucked my stuff into the panniers, fitted a Oxford Atlas 20L tailpack, and headed off. Kudos to Ben, who did set to work to check over the bike and give it a bit of a clean. And there was no issues bolting bits to the bike itself. So generally a positive experience.
We rode out of San Francisco and headed for Highway 1, riding south towards Carmel past a successful of beautiful towns and beaches. The traffic was heavy, progress was slow, and it took the best part of four hours to ride the 130 miles to our first overnight stop. I think we were all a bit fried, and didn’t take the opportunity to ride 17 mile drive.
Day 2
following a hearty breakfast at Denny’s, we rode through Carmel, and turned back on ourselves to follow the G16 minor road southwest towards the CA101. It was a fantastic biking road, very quiet, heading through wineyards, ranches and eventually into a spectacular valley before joining the CA-101. A good 48 miles of great riding before the sprint down the 101.
When we booked the trip, we knew that Highway 1 was closed near Big Sur, with Caltrans saving it would likely be open summer 2025. We knew it was a risk that it would be closed, and honestly the risk didn’t pay off. Regents Slide was still moving around a foot a day, and the road doesn’t look like it’s going to be open any time soon. We had a couple of choices, either across on the newly reopened Nacimiento-Ferguson road or across on the CA43, and as far up the Pacific Coast Highway as we could. We chose the latter, executing almost a loop back to within 30 miles of where we came from, until we reached the road closure northbound.
It was great to ride the PCH both ways, but parts of the route were dogged by low visibility and the Sea Fret which is typical for May and June. That said, there was very little traffic and some wonderful sights, but I don’t think it quite lives up to the hype. In retrospect, I wish we’d taken the less well known Nacimiento-Ferguson Road, and just done it southbound. The return journey southbound is for me a lot prettier than northbound. We got to the road closure on Highway 1, spoke with the contractor turning people around, and said the whole road has been repaved…
We ended the day in a rented Airbnb in the Irish Hills above San Luis Obispo. Very beautiful I am sure, but shrouded in the inevitable and now ubiquitous mist, we couldn’t really see a thing….
Day 3
Following a great tip, we headed south to a small coastal town called Avila. Beautiful little place, with a picturesque pier and a small, south facing sandy beach. Non of the big surf of the west facing coasts, a great “Breakfast Sando”, lovely friendly people and great start to the day. Our ultimate destination now was across to Fresno, as a staging post to getting to Yosemite National Park. So today was a slog, and we expected it. Riding across the desert, temperatures and fatigue began to rise, and patience began to fall at an equivalent rate. It was 37 deg. C when we got to the hotel, and I’ve rarely been so pleased to get off a bike. Looking back I didn’t appreciate this trip like I should have done – the desert was an astonishing place, long straight roads straight out of the movies, and some astonishing vistas. But mostly heat, and the ever present and frustratingly slow 55 mph speed limits. As was to become a pattern, we found great brewery tap near the hotel and set about refreshing ourselves.
Day 4
Day 4 was one of the big ones. Heading out of Fresno to the northeast, we avoided the highway and took in some fantastic smaller roads around Whisper Lake and Bass Lake as we headed into the Yosemite National Park. Road surfaces were good, temperatures manageable as we climbed higher and higher into the Sierra Nevada’s. The roads were pretty well empty until we got to the national park itself. One of the factors of this trip is a prevalence of double yellow lines on a lot of the roads, making overtaking in clearly safe locations illegal. Ironic for the land of the free for the riding to be so constrained. The views are astonishing, with frequent stops needed for photos. The big reveal of the tunnel into the overlook near Yosemite Village is honestly breathtaking. You look out across the valley framed by El Capitan and Half Dome. Simply astonishing and emotional to see. Riding down to the valley floor, the sheer faces of the cliffs are no less impressive against a foreground framed by rivers and meadows. It was like something from a fantasy novel, quite otherworldly.
The valley floor is busy though, and quite commercial. You may not enjoy this aspect, but I guess the national park has to generate funds somehow! We left the park, heading west towards our overnight stop in Sonora on the CA-140, and the fairly frightening prospect of a night in the heritage inn…. Heading north from Mariposa on the CA-46 the Golden Chain Highway - we found some the best riding of the trip, some largely empty twisty mountain roads with a near perfect, billiard table smooth road surface. Playtime, even on heavily loaded bikes. The altitude and exposure of a winding road somehow clinging onto the very edge of a cliff face just adding to the fun.
Day 5
Sonora is a small gold rush town, with pretty high street and some historic buildings. It is not blessed with great hotels, but it it blessed with a good bar in The Armory, and we enjoyed some refreshing kolsch and the greasy loveliness which was Taco Tuesday. Heading east up from Sonora on CA-108, we came into the highlight of the trip, the Sonora Pass. Some 9600 feet above sea level, we climbed relentlessly higher and higher, with each bend revealing even more impressive landscapes. Stunning, technical riding above the snow line on largely empty roads. Something I will never forget – riding on dry, grippy roads with snow banked at the side of the road. We descended into pasturelands, and headed north on the US395 towards Lake Tahoe, with the temperature climbing every minute as we left California for Nevada…. The roads around Lake Tahoe were busy, and frankly bloody awful condition. Long cracks in the pavement made for some unsettling riding, with the GS squirming across the road surface. We overnighted in Tahoe City, at the almost derelict Pepper Tree Inn. More refreshment at the Tahoe National Brewing Company.
Day 6
Day 6 was ride northbound through the Plumas Forest towards Red Bluff. Not the most spectacular scenery, lots of trees, and a diesel covered CA-89 meant slow going with few real high spots. Towards Red Bluff, the heat again increased to almost unbearable levels, we were pleased to get comfort inn. With no taxis to be had, and the prospect of a 35 minute walk into town in blistering heat, we headed to the rather more local Rockin’ R for some dinner. Food was average, but the waitress was also a biker and gave us some great tips about the route. CA 36 was closed due to landslides, so following her advice we agreed to an early start and to head west via the CA-299.
Day 7
The CA-299 is a fabulous road. Well maintained, fast sweeping constant radius bends on a great road surface amid beautiful scenery and high elevates as we crossed the Palisades made for exhilarating and confident riding, even as it was becoming evident that the tyres were rapidly reaching the end of their lives. The 135 miles from Red Bluff to Eureka were some of the best riding of the trip, and this route is highly recommended. Lunch at the Marina Café in Eureka was a treat, and onwards to Fortuna and the now inevitable Brewery Tap. Snacks, kolsch and chilli served by the excitable Melissa.
Day 8
From Fortuna, we headed south on the CA101, stopping to travel down the Avenue of the Giants, a road through the forest. Each side of the road was flanked with towering, huge giant redwoods. God knows how they survived being cut down, but there were hugely impressive trees. Onwards further to Highway 1, and following some never ending twisties, we were back on the PCH. With proximity to the ocean, the blasted sea fret returned, and the remaining journey to Bodega Bay became a slog. A combination of hazy views, cold, knackered tyres and general fatigue led to a somewhat fractious and dispirited haul. It was a disappointing ride, even more so as I expected it to be a huge highlight! A rather grumpy party arrived and quickly decamped in Bodega Bay. By now the temperature had slumped to 12 deg.C, with people digging fleeces out of the panniers…. Interesting little place though, Alfred Hitchcock filmed “The Birds” there. Good seafood and friendly people.
Day 9
Back to San Francisco, we opted to get the bikes back on time, and headed off down CA-101. Weather was great and spirits high until we neared the coast and it became obvious that the bloody fog would obscure any scenic views of the Golden Gate Bridge. Denied again, we peered somewhat forlornly through the mist to catch a fleeting glimpse of the bridge towers and deck. Riding through San Francisco was interesting, some incredibly steep streets and a plethora of stop signs made for great lessons in clutch control and the benefits of hill start…
Gear
Not knowing what what to expect, other than wide swings in temperature, layering was the order of the day. I took a Klim Marrakesh jacket and trousers, a Klim wind shirt, and a Rukka down jacket if it got cold. In case it rained, a set of Scott Ergo waterproofs. Needless to say, the waterproofs were not needed, and even at the top of the Sierra Nevada passes it was 12 deg.C. As expected the Klim gear was brilliant. Can’t say I was comfortable though at 35 deg.C though!
The learning
Our plan was to take in some of the highlights of California over a period of 8 days and 1600 miles, starting and finishing in San Francisco. I did the journey on a R1250GS Rallye, hired from Eaglerider in San Francisco. The itinerary took us down the coast to Monterey, Carmel by the Sea, San Luis Obispo, and then across the Sierra Nevada’s to Lake Tahoe. From then, north to Red Bluff, and then back down the coast to Fortuna, Bodega Bay and finally back across the Golden Gate Bridge to San Francisco. We had scheduled 8 days to do the trip, starting late May and ending in June.
Air travel with a helmet
I hand carried my helmet on the Virgin flight with a seperate small rucksack. The cabin crew could not have cared less and no-one challenged me at all. Easy
Pickup at Eagle Rider
The San Francisco outlet for Eagle Rider is not a particularly impressive location. Located in a rather ramshackle garage which was seemingly once a Harley Davidson outlet, most of the expansive facility is empty. When I arrived, the bike was parked outside and was filthy, having only been dropped off a think a few hours earlier by the previous lessor. The bike was fitted with a rather battered set of Vario Panniers, no top box, but the all important sat nav preparation in place. I set to work with a pair of 14mm spanners to fit a Ram mount to the mirror and added the Connected Ride Cradle. The tyres were clearly getting towards the end of life, a concern when I knew we would be putting a lot of mileage on the bikes. I was told by the largely disinterested manager to “just visit the nearest Motorrad shop and get them changed” if I needed to. I chucked my stuff into the panniers, fitted a Oxford Atlas 20L tailpack, and headed off. Kudos to Ben, who did set to work to check over the bike and give it a bit of a clean. And there was no issues bolting bits to the bike itself. So generally a positive experience.
We rode out of San Francisco and headed for Highway 1, riding south towards Carmel past a successful of beautiful towns and beaches. The traffic was heavy, progress was slow, and it took the best part of four hours to ride the 130 miles to our first overnight stop. I think we were all a bit fried, and didn’t take the opportunity to ride 17 mile drive.
Day 2
following a hearty breakfast at Denny’s, we rode through Carmel, and turned back on ourselves to follow the G16 minor road southwest towards the CA101. It was a fantastic biking road, very quiet, heading through wineyards, ranches and eventually into a spectacular valley before joining the CA-101. A good 48 miles of great riding before the sprint down the 101.
When we booked the trip, we knew that Highway 1 was closed near Big Sur, with Caltrans saving it would likely be open summer 2025. We knew it was a risk that it would be closed, and honestly the risk didn’t pay off. Regents Slide was still moving around a foot a day, and the road doesn’t look like it’s going to be open any time soon. We had a couple of choices, either across on the newly reopened Nacimiento-Ferguson road or across on the CA43, and as far up the Pacific Coast Highway as we could. We chose the latter, executing almost a loop back to within 30 miles of where we came from, until we reached the road closure northbound.
It was great to ride the PCH both ways, but parts of the route were dogged by low visibility and the Sea Fret which is typical for May and June. That said, there was very little traffic and some wonderful sights, but I don’t think it quite lives up to the hype. In retrospect, I wish we’d taken the less well known Nacimiento-Ferguson Road, and just done it southbound. The return journey southbound is for me a lot prettier than northbound. We got to the road closure on Highway 1, spoke with the contractor turning people around, and said the whole road has been repaved…
We ended the day in a rented Airbnb in the Irish Hills above San Luis Obispo. Very beautiful I am sure, but shrouded in the inevitable and now ubiquitous mist, we couldn’t really see a thing….
Day 3
Following a great tip, we headed south to a small coastal town called Avila. Beautiful little place, with a picturesque pier and a small, south facing sandy beach. Non of the big surf of the west facing coasts, a great “Breakfast Sando”, lovely friendly people and great start to the day. Our ultimate destination now was across to Fresno, as a staging post to getting to Yosemite National Park. So today was a slog, and we expected it. Riding across the desert, temperatures and fatigue began to rise, and patience began to fall at an equivalent rate. It was 37 deg. C when we got to the hotel, and I’ve rarely been so pleased to get off a bike. Looking back I didn’t appreciate this trip like I should have done – the desert was an astonishing place, long straight roads straight out of the movies, and some astonishing vistas. But mostly heat, and the ever present and frustratingly slow 55 mph speed limits. As was to become a pattern, we found great brewery tap near the hotel and set about refreshing ourselves.
Day 4
Day 4 was one of the big ones. Heading out of Fresno to the northeast, we avoided the highway and took in some fantastic smaller roads around Whisper Lake and Bass Lake as we headed into the Yosemite National Park. Road surfaces were good, temperatures manageable as we climbed higher and higher into the Sierra Nevada’s. The roads were pretty well empty until we got to the national park itself. One of the factors of this trip is a prevalence of double yellow lines on a lot of the roads, making overtaking in clearly safe locations illegal. Ironic for the land of the free for the riding to be so constrained. The views are astonishing, with frequent stops needed for photos. The big reveal of the tunnel into the overlook near Yosemite Village is honestly breathtaking. You look out across the valley framed by El Capitan and Half Dome. Simply astonishing and emotional to see. Riding down to the valley floor, the sheer faces of the cliffs are no less impressive against a foreground framed by rivers and meadows. It was like something from a fantasy novel, quite otherworldly.
The valley floor is busy though, and quite commercial. You may not enjoy this aspect, but I guess the national park has to generate funds somehow! We left the park, heading west towards our overnight stop in Sonora on the CA-140, and the fairly frightening prospect of a night in the heritage inn…. Heading north from Mariposa on the CA-46 the Golden Chain Highway - we found some the best riding of the trip, some largely empty twisty mountain roads with a near perfect, billiard table smooth road surface. Playtime, even on heavily loaded bikes. The altitude and exposure of a winding road somehow clinging onto the very edge of a cliff face just adding to the fun.
Day 5
Sonora is a small gold rush town, with pretty high street and some historic buildings. It is not blessed with great hotels, but it it blessed with a good bar in The Armory, and we enjoyed some refreshing kolsch and the greasy loveliness which was Taco Tuesday. Heading east up from Sonora on CA-108, we came into the highlight of the trip, the Sonora Pass. Some 9600 feet above sea level, we climbed relentlessly higher and higher, with each bend revealing even more impressive landscapes. Stunning, technical riding above the snow line on largely empty roads. Something I will never forget – riding on dry, grippy roads with snow banked at the side of the road. We descended into pasturelands, and headed north on the US395 towards Lake Tahoe, with the temperature climbing every minute as we left California for Nevada…. The roads around Lake Tahoe were busy, and frankly bloody awful condition. Long cracks in the pavement made for some unsettling riding, with the GS squirming across the road surface. We overnighted in Tahoe City, at the almost derelict Pepper Tree Inn. More refreshment at the Tahoe National Brewing Company.
Day 6
Day 6 was ride northbound through the Plumas Forest towards Red Bluff. Not the most spectacular scenery, lots of trees, and a diesel covered CA-89 meant slow going with few real high spots. Towards Red Bluff, the heat again increased to almost unbearable levels, we were pleased to get comfort inn. With no taxis to be had, and the prospect of a 35 minute walk into town in blistering heat, we headed to the rather more local Rockin’ R for some dinner. Food was average, but the waitress was also a biker and gave us some great tips about the route. CA 36 was closed due to landslides, so following her advice we agreed to an early start and to head west via the CA-299.
Day 7
The CA-299 is a fabulous road. Well maintained, fast sweeping constant radius bends on a great road surface amid beautiful scenery and high elevates as we crossed the Palisades made for exhilarating and confident riding, even as it was becoming evident that the tyres were rapidly reaching the end of their lives. The 135 miles from Red Bluff to Eureka were some of the best riding of the trip, and this route is highly recommended. Lunch at the Marina Café in Eureka was a treat, and onwards to Fortuna and the now inevitable Brewery Tap. Snacks, kolsch and chilli served by the excitable Melissa.
Day 8
From Fortuna, we headed south on the CA101, stopping to travel down the Avenue of the Giants, a road through the forest. Each side of the road was flanked with towering, huge giant redwoods. God knows how they survived being cut down, but there were hugely impressive trees. Onwards further to Highway 1, and following some never ending twisties, we were back on the PCH. With proximity to the ocean, the blasted sea fret returned, and the remaining journey to Bodega Bay became a slog. A combination of hazy views, cold, knackered tyres and general fatigue led to a somewhat fractious and dispirited haul. It was a disappointing ride, even more so as I expected it to be a huge highlight! A rather grumpy party arrived and quickly decamped in Bodega Bay. By now the temperature had slumped to 12 deg.C, with people digging fleeces out of the panniers…. Interesting little place though, Alfred Hitchcock filmed “The Birds” there. Good seafood and friendly people.
Day 9
Back to San Francisco, we opted to get the bikes back on time, and headed off down CA-101. Weather was great and spirits high until we neared the coast and it became obvious that the bloody fog would obscure any scenic views of the Golden Gate Bridge. Denied again, we peered somewhat forlornly through the mist to catch a fleeting glimpse of the bridge towers and deck. Riding through San Francisco was interesting, some incredibly steep streets and a plethora of stop signs made for great lessons in clutch control and the benefits of hill start…
Gear
Not knowing what what to expect, other than wide swings in temperature, layering was the order of the day. I took a Klim Marrakesh jacket and trousers, a Klim wind shirt, and a Rukka down jacket if it got cold. In case it rained, a set of Scott Ergo waterproofs. Needless to say, the waterproofs were not needed, and even at the top of the Sierra Nevada passes it was 12 deg.C. As expected the Klim gear was brilliant. Can’t say I was comfortable though at 35 deg.C though!
The learning
- Pace. I think we bit off a little more than we could chew, and I’d recommend a slower pace with more time to explore.
- I’d personally favour the Sierra Nevada passes over the PCH.
- It’s a big place. Expect to spend a lot of time riding on dead straight roads in the middle of nowhere.
- Be aware of significant swings in temperature between the coast and the valley. Be aware of the fatigue which riding in high temperatures can bring.
- San Francisco is not a great city. Some interesting places to see, but a combination of a mild climate, high cost of living and the fentanyl crisis means a huge amount of homeless, troubled people on the streets, far more than I’ve seen in any other American city. Downtown is dirty, the streets strewn with litter. Even the cable cars and the historic monuments can’t hide a city in crisis.
- The bike was faultless over the 1600 miles. It’s a shame the tyres were cooked towards the end but I guess that’s the nature of renting a bike – someone is going to get fresh rubber, and someone isn’t. It’s the luck of the draw. Heavily loaded, the bike was wallowy in Road mode, so I did most of the trip with the suspension in Dynamic mode.
- Nav was a challenge. The iPhone really suffered in the heat - with the high ambient temp and brightness on max, the phone just couldn’t maintain a usable screen brightness. The screen dimmed constantly as the phone tried vainly to dissipate heat, and the BMW navigation app crashed frequently. I would probably go with a Quadlock next time to try and get more cooling over the phone. I don’t think the connected ride cradle helped in this regard.
