Tunisia

Blue Sweeper

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Late April 2010 I took a tour to Tunisia together with other BMW riders.

We used the ferry from Dover to Calais and then rode through France to Marseilles. I won't bore you the reader with a description of the route through France, as I expect many of you will know what France is like.

So the report really starts from the dock at Marseille.

We were told that we must be at the port 3hrs before sailing and I was soon to find out why. As my riding buddies lined up, I went into the airless oven that was the ticket office to get the pre-booked tickets and boarding passes. Trouble was that our trip was also at the same time as the "Rallye du Tunisia", so there were nearly a hundred people in the office trying to get their tickets, with only one desk open!. After about 10 mins. I spotted an official looking guy and asked him if I needed to queue up for our pre-booked tickets. Apparently not, as he took the booking notification from me and returned with all the boarding passes. I got some very dark looks from those in the queue!

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We were then able to pass the checkpoint to queue up fortunately out of the sun, while we waited for all the other vehicles to arrive, including all the Rallye vehicles. There were some pretty expensive looking bikes and cars together with the support trucks on the dock side.

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The ferry that was to be our home for the next 24 hrs.

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After what seemed like a very long wait, we eventually boarded the ferry, to be left on our own to tie down the bikes.

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The ferry out was reasonable, but the French do not have the same attitude to smoking in public places as us. So we nearly choked on the smoke filled atmosphere in the bars and restaurants.

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I had a pleasant clean cabin though, with a window.

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and so we said goodby to Europe as we watched Marseille fade away.

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During the crossing the customs and police offices open, so that all the necessary forms can be completed prior to arrival at Tunis. My cabin was very near the offices, so I was able to keep an eye out as to when they opened. Good job too, as the queue rapidly built up to enormous proportions. But those in the queue needn't have bothered as they were open again next morning with only a few, that knew the proceedure, queing up for the checks.

Three forms per rider are needed, two of which seem to ask very similar questions about the bike and one other about the rider.

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The meals on the ferry were very reasonable, in that a ticket for 24 Euro is obtainable that gives you meals midday and evening, plus breakfast. I didn't take up this though, as I found that one of the restaurants was for exclusive use of the Rallye participants. I just rocked up, was asked if I was in the Rallye, "er, yeh of course" so in I went. ;)

Arrival in Tunis was early afternoon next day.

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On exit from the port our passports were inspected six times (there must be a high demand as jobs for passport inspectors), and our bike customs forms were inspected and a copy given back for us to keep until exit from Tunisia. Plus the exit from the port resulted in complete chaos due to the large amount of Rallye vehicles.

We then had a short ride to our first hotel in Sidi bou Said, which went past the ancient ruins of the Phoenician city of Carthage. These minor roads were more tar than chip and were VERY slippery, ABS and traction control going off all the time. Every time I put my foot down at stops I kept thinking that I'd got oil on my boot. :eek:

So we parked up the bikes right in the hotel, as everyone normally does!

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Next day we rode our bikes to Carthage to visit the ruins. The Phoenicians established their empire (which included most of North Africa, Southern Spain and Sardinia) here in the 3rd century BC. There were several wars with the Romans called the Punic wars and eventually, about 200 years BC the Romans finally defeated the Carthaginians and Carthage was burned almost to the ground.

There are several areas preserved together with a museum, one ticket for 10 Dinar (about £5) lets you get into them all. But an extra ticket (1 Dinar) is required to let you take photo's. So we bought one and then passed it around every time someone wanted to take a photo. :)

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Here is a picture of what Carthage looked like in it's prime. Note the harbour which looks large, but in fact is tiny by todays standards.

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At the museum there are some impressive displays of the Roman city which was built on top of the ruins of Carthage. Here we are outside having just consumed an ice cream.

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Roman floor.

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Next we rode down to the port, this is all that remains. Note the island in the middle that used to be the boat store.

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The boat house as it used to look like and was located on the island.

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All that's left of the inlet to the harbour.

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In Sidi bou Said there are loads of nice looking cafe's and restaurants, later that evening we rode to one, where we had a traditional Tunisian meal cooked in Jars. It was delicious.

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The next day we rode to Sfax, via Hammamet and to view the Colosseum at El Jem.

Hammamet is mostly a tourist destination, the beach here is fabulous and there are two motorised boats that look like Galleons that sail round the bay. We thought it would be great to install water cannon on them both and have a war!

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As you ride into El Jem, there is one overall structure that draws the eye, that is the Colosseum. It is the second largest in the world and was used during the filming of "Gladiator" for the fight scenes.

Here, it is just visible in the distance.

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It is very impressive. The entrance fee is 10 Dinar and will take some time to see it all. We decided to ask at one of the many little restaurants if we could leave our bike gear in it, having ordered lunch which we were told would take about an hour to produce. This was a good call and they dutifully looked after everything, but we still took our passports and money with us!

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After Sfax, we rode round the bay to the Ile de Jerba. On route throughout Tunisia, petrol stations are few and far between, but there are loads of adhoc places where fuel is sold in plastic drums. We never had to use them, but so long as you fill up every time a petrol station is passed, there will not be a problem.

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The essential mint "tea break" at a lunch stop.

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One of the small towns we passed though.

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I have to admit though, there isn't much to see (from a scenic point of view) on the Eastern Mediterranean coast of Tunisia, apart from the beach. It's very flat and there is simply mile, after mile, after mile, after mile of Olive trees basking in the sunshine. Very boring!

Another lunch stop, note the sheep grazing on their food, blissfully unaware of the fate that awaits them. Even the ex mates that are hanging up do not seem to bother them.

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Eventually we reached the Ile de Jerba for a couple of days rest and relaxation at a beach front hotel.

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This flew over on a regular basis, presumably to keep an eye out for tourist safety. :confused:

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I did go in the sea, honest I did.....

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We didn't eat in the hotel 'cos the food was very expensive, preferring to jump on our bikes each night to run into town where there were some very nice restaurants to be found.

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Even the toilet was tastefully decorated.

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We got onto the Ile de Jerba by making the long detour to the Eastern side, where there is a mile long causeway to get across the sea. But getting off, we decided to use the little ferry on the Western side. The cost was about 9 pence, but there were long queues, so we rode straight to the front of it (just like all good motorcyclists would :augie), and got straight onto the next one leaving.

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We were heading for Matmata where some of the film "Star Wars" was made and soon we were climbing into the surrounding hills.

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Regular visitors to North Africa will recognise the usual, inevitable, carpet shops!

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and "tea shops"........

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Ah the Hotel Sidi Driss, which should have been called the Hotel Selling Dross. This is where it all happened in 1976 when Luke Skywalker went into a bar. Trouble is the locals are still dining out on this over 35 years later and is somewhat spoilt due to the harrasement from postcard sellers and charging for EVERYTHING to look at.

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Entrance to the "bar".......

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Outside the "bar"........

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One of the houses that the locals use. Everywhere, there are loads of holes in the ground where people live 'cos it gets VERY hot in summer and so is cooler underground.

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Here's another one.........

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I'm not sure what the locals do for a living, not much I suspect and here is one trying to eke out his frugal lifestyle.

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An unofficial "guide" tagged onto us trying to obtain his fee for showing us round. Eventually we said we had had enough and were going to look for a cafe, he then promptly told us to follow him on his moped. He was really pissed off when we zoomed of leaving him in the dust. We didn't stop for the next 80 miles until we got to Douz.
 
Douz is a pleasant little town where the "Rallye du Tunisia" starts and finishes. Here we found a rooftop restaurant where we had a nice lunch. Even the toilets had anti-bacterial gel for us to use, which is very unusual in Noth Africa.

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The petrol station office. Seems like this garage is well used by Rallye vehicles.

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We're on route for Tamerza, but first we have to cross the Chott el Jerrid, an enormous salt lake which dries out in the summer. It is the largest salt pan in the Sahara and due to temperatures of 50 deg C plus at the height of summer, dries completely out. Although when we crossed, the temperature was about 30 deg C. Much to the south of the lake, is where the Grand Erg Oriental desert begins and is one of the largest dune areas in Tunisia.

Crossing the salt lake is by way of a causeway built up over the lake, the salt lake was also an area where "Star Wars" was filmed.

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On one side of the causeway the lake hadn't completely dried out and although the water was crystal clear, it has a deep pink tint where the salt on the ground surface is leaching out of the water.

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On the other side of the causeway the water takes on a blueish/green tint and note we were getting closer to Algeria. In fact, the closest we got to the border was about 500 metres. Such a pity that we couldn't go into Algeria, it looks very scenic fom where we got too.

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As we reached the Western end of the causeway, the hills in the distance promised that it was going to cool down a little. The notice in this photo promises that camels will be crossing the road!

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We got closer and started to climb.

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Here is the view from our hotel at Tamerza, overlooking the old "ruined" village.

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The pool at our hotel......

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Inside the hotel........

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Planning for the next days ride, which would take us VERY close to the Algerian border........

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