Twistgrip stickig open

Nunkie

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Twistgrip won't snap shut when I let go of it; I have to wind ti down manually. This mostly occurs when I have the heated grips switched on and it then clears after I switch them off so it looks like an expansion thing. It' s not dangerous in itself but it IS distracting as it makes fine control difficult. I suspect a smear of silicone grease is called for here but I'm afeared of removing the twistgrip because I don't know where the wires for the heater are. Is this a common problem ? Any of you guys had this ?
 
Twistgrip won't snap shut when I let go of it; I have to wind ti down manually. This mostly occurs when I have the heated grips switched on and it then clears after I switch them off so it looks like an expansion thing. It' s not dangerous in itself but it IS distracting as it makes fine control difficult. I suspect a smear of silicone grease is called for here but I'm afeared of removing the twistgrip because I don't know where the wires for the heater are. Is this a common problem ? Any of you guys had this ?

Not sure which bike you have. But I have a 2011 GSA. Recently removed the twist grip. You firstly need to release the control buttons which then allow access to a small nut and bolt which will allow the removal of the grip. The heated grip is connected with a small electrical connector, easy to get off. I didn't have the problem you have and I think it would be difficult to just lube things up. Maybe your problem is at the other end of the cable. Of which I have no experience of.
 
Try loosening handlebar end weight. If this solves problem then then pull weight out and give end of twist grip rubber a good clean.
Had same prob and a good clean plus a minuscule trim with sharp blade sorted it
 
Check the bar end weight where it goes inside the twist grip, mine had rust causing it to bind up. :beerjug:
 
The twistgrip expands, when the heated grip is on, causing it to bind on the bar end weight. Space the bar end weight further out with a thin washer.
 
Exactly what Smug said, a common issue which just needs a thin washer inserting, forget fannying around with moving switches this takes 5 minutes.
 
He says "First solution is the easiest one!" but should add "if you have big muscles". ;)

Nobody asked if the OP has a throttle lock fitted

While the switches are loose you can turn them forwards so the cancel button is easier to reach without jiggling the throttle. You may need to take the brkae assembly off to route the throttle cable above the lever. Downside - the RH indicator button isn't visible but it's just as easy to reach.
 
Thanks for all your help fellas, that's given me something to work on; I' going to do the easy one first, the jeff blade-shave, and I'll let you know the result as soon as I've given it a decent test.
 
Well that worked OK. I did just about all of the things suggested: cockpit shine down the nylon barrel; emery-cloth round the spigot of the bar-end weight; shave the end of the barrel and rubber; install a 0.75mm shim at the inner end of the bar-end weight; fine smear of silicone grease principally to protect everything, too much of that stuff causes drag.
But at the end of the job I think it was the shim/washer that really did it!
And yes, it WAS a simple job: perhaps a tad more than 5 minutes but no longer than it took Mrs Nunkie to knock up bacon & eggs which I got to eat afterwards.
Many thanks for your help guys.

Footnote: why in hell hasn't BMW sorted this?
 
Footnote: why in hell hasn't BMW sorted this?[/QUOTE]

So you would not be cheated from having the warm glow of satisfaction from sorting it out yourself.
Now if only I could fix that bloody fuel strip
 


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