Unexpected starting problem, order of check help please.

[Big-G]

Motobatt is showing 12.5 at stop and 12.3 when running but all I'm getting on start is the dreaded clickerty click.
Bike then started eventually on the lithium jump pack after an initial few clicks then started turning over and fired up.
Back to trying on battery and back to stater clicks suggesting battery but as said showing good charge and runs straight to green on charger.
Can anyone please give me the best order to check everything out and best way how.
Many thanks
G

 

[ChasF]

Voltage across the battery with the engine running should be around 14 volts if charging correctly

 

[NeilDD]

Garry,
A fully charged battery should be about 2.3 V per cell, which means about 14V fully charged
Check regulator wiring, brushes on alternator etc, as well as the wiring on the battery |(both ends)

 

[Kenny]

Garry,
A fully charged battery should be about 2.3 V per cell, which means about 14V fully charged
Check regulator wiring, brushes on alternator etc, as well as the wiring on the battery |(both ends)

Apologies if wrong but isn't a static fully charged battery should show 12.5 v and when being charged should read 14V or so ?
So, clearly not charging but 12.5 v should fire her up anyways! Weird.

 

[DrFarkoff]

might show 12 plus volts but it needs load tested !

VOlts are not always a good indicator of available amps

!2 plus when sat for a while and 13 and a half to 14 and a half volts charging

 

[solidstate100]

12.3 volts when running is not a good charge - should be above 14volts. Sounds like you have a dying battery, with a combined charging issue which has killed the battery.

 

[Big-G]

Yep, bench charged battery overnight to 12.5v and this morning initially got nothing on the button and then the clicking. I’ll start with a new battery and get to checking the charging issue. Is there anything that could stick to reduce starter or charging. Cheers for the info.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[warmshed]

Check the voltage when trying to start, if it falls into single figures then its your battery,
If it stays up around 12 volts or a bit less, the check the voltage from the -ve side of the battery to the thick battery lead where it goes onto the starter motor. If its still around 12 volts then it can only be the starter motor/solenoid or the earth lead.
Check the voltage from starter main lead connection and the body of the starter, If still 12volts then it is the starter motor/solenoid. If now less than the previous test then its the earth path back to the battery.

 

[Big-G]

Checked it all and nipped up the earths and it's now charging a treat from around 13v at tickover to 14.1v when revving. The battery is goosed as it does fall into single on start so I'm ordering a Motobatt next today.

I've found that in the owners manual there are a number of checks for the alternator, regulator, starter motor etc in the electrics section that are simple to follow. The manual can be downloaded from www.manualslib.com for those not aware of this site for virtually all types of manuals.
Again many thanks for your help.

PS Motobatt seem to recommend a 22ah capacity for the paralever 80gs but I was looking at the 32ah capacity MBTX30U recommended on the R80 and 100gs. Can anyone see any issues with the larger capacity?
Cheers

 

[warmshed]

Best to get the bigger 20AH one

 

[ChasF]

Checked it all and nipped up the earths and it's now charging a treat from around 13v at tickover to 14.1v when revving. The battery is goosed as it does fall into single on start so I'm ordering a Motobatt next today.

I've found that in the owners manual there are a number of checks for the alternator, regulator, starter motor etc in the electrics section that are simple to follow. The manual can be downloaded from www.manualslib.com for those not aware of this site for virtually all types of manuals.
Again many thanks for your help.

PS Motobatt seem to recommend a 22ah capacity for the paralever 80gs but I was looking at the 32ah capacity MBTX30U recommended on the R80 and 100gs. Can anyone see any issues with the larger capacity?
Cheers

Firstly, if the volts drop into single figures initially when you press the starter this is normal especially for the Bosch starter. Once cranking though voltage should recover to around 10 volts.

I’ve been running my 100GS on the 22AH Motobatt for about five years now and it’s been fine even with a very slow cranking Bosch starter motor. I don’t use a maintainer as I think the one I used was partly responsible for killing off the Hawker battery I had before in less than a year.

 

[Beemerboff]

The stock Motobatt 20 ah can be easier to find than the 51--- or the 30 mb BMW specific battery and it works perfectly.
Batteries are best bought over the counter as counterfeits abound and a Motobatt should not show less than 12.6v resting, no matter what the state of charge, so ask to see it first.
These extra heavy battery leads from EME in the other post work well too, leads don't last forever and they can corrode internally leading to a high resistance, which can be baffling!

 

[Tbolt]

I had a similar problem that turned out to be the alternator bushes.

 

[Big-G]

Batteries are best bought over the counter as counterfeits abound and a Motobatt should not show less than 12.6v resting, no matter what the state of charge, so ask to see it first.
These extra heavy battery leads from EME in the other post work well too, leads don't last forever and they can corrode internally leading to a high resistance, which can be baffling!

Thanks, I'm getting the battery from Tanya Batteries, Abergele, Conwy so should be a genuine item but even these retailers have had negatives on some of their other batteries.
I'll also check out the EME leads but mine do seem in very good condition and not that old.
Cheers