Bit the bullet last week and decided to investigate this annoying cutting out when stationary, stripped off the fairings, battery and air box, cleaned the intakes where a build up of varnish had formed where the butterflies sit when shut, inspected the Idler actuator valve/sensor and cleaned the film of oily residue from it, inspected the 2 rubber pipes that run from injector bodies to the airbox, seemed OK but decided to replace them, on receiving the new ones discovered that the old ones had been cut off and refitted so with a reasonable amount of confidence took the bike out for a test ride only to discover the fuel gauge ( replaced about 600 mile ago) was showing stupid readings but the bike felt much more responsive and I was impressed with my efforts UNTIL I came back home, I live at the bottom of a rather steep bank so braking to negotiate the gate and swinging in on a downhill incline the bastard thing cut out again! So, what next? Rumour has it that the early 800cc twin GS's fuel pumps suffered from overheating , maybe that's the cause but my overactive imagination has come up with maybe water in the tank as it only does it under braking to a stop or, as stated, downhill! So the question is this, does anyone within a reasonable distance of Bewdley, Worcs, have to tool to remove the "ring" that secures the gubbing's on top of the fuel tank that I could borrow to investigate the state of the fuel and my fuel level sender? Drinking Vouchers will be available for the kind gesture!
Update on Stalling Issue on my 2008 F650 GS 800 twin
- Thread starter RPMDAKAR
- Start date
Can u not buy one of those plastic hand pump things too put in the tank too sample it..
Once I have the top ring of the pump holder off most certainly as being fuel injected the tank has to be sealed!
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If you are referring to the metal locking ring assuming its the same as a 1200GS/A tank is, couldn't you make a homemade tool up from a bit of flat bar, or alternately give it a whack with a hammer and flat point screwdiver ?
Mileage information would be helpful to help diagnose the problem, particularly by remote. The early 800 twin’s fuel pump lasted about 50,000 miles, this is by BMW’s own admission, and the pump was upgraded when the updated was done in 2012/13. They run fine with a 2/3 full or more tank, but with less fuel the weight of the fuel isn’t enough. They also don’t like temperatures over around 25C when the fuel expands and gets thinner, but I don’t think that’ll be an issue at the moment. So if your bike has more than, say, 55k - 60,000 miles on it then it’s probably worth changing the pump for a new one from the post 2013 bikes.
32500 miles and just had £1600 24,000 mile service inc a new fuel sender module so I'm not certain the things been replaced properly?????
Happy to report that I think I've cracked it, 200mile run on Tuesday to visit The Geriatric Germ in a nursing home in Llandovery and not once did it stall. Also spent a huge chunk of mt months pension on a OE BMW comfort seat as I couldn't walk in a straight line after 6 hours on the plank of a seat. Happy days and a relieved arse!
and what was it ?
ps , WTF made a 24k service cost £1600
ps , WTF made a 24k service cost £1600
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As if I had to prove it but the direct evidence!
My "fix" as I would like to think, was as follows;
Clean Idle Actuator sensor.
Renew both Idle actuator rubber pipes
Clean the varnish in the throttle venturi's where the butterflies seat with carb cleaner.
Cleaned greasy residue from the airbox.
Now its settled it still flutters sometimes on tickover and now I've observed the end of the tail pipe is " sooty" Bikes running well, 67 mpg 35k+ miles. How does one adjust the mixture on an injected bike?
Clean Idle Actuator sensor.
Renew both Idle actuator rubber pipes
Clean the varnish in the throttle venturi's where the butterflies seat with carb cleaner.
Cleaned greasy residue from the airbox.
Now its settled it still flutters sometimes on tickover and now I've observed the end of the tail pipe is " sooty" Bikes running well, 67 mpg 35k+ miles. How does one adjust the mixture on an injected bike?
You should Not be taking a 16 year old bike to a main dealership for pretty much anything unless you have no other options. A good reputable independent will give you the same level of care and service for around half the cost. My independent bike shop (S&D Motorcycles, South Weald, Essex), for example, has access to the BMW service schedule and workshop manual for my 2008 F800GS, but charges less than half the hourly rate of my nearest BMW dealer. They also aren’t tied in to the official BMW parts network and can get better quality or cheaper parts; and in my experience, frequently both.
Des Goslett
Registered user
I have a 2008 F650-800 twin (one of the first out of the Berlin factory) 44000 kms. If I ride for a certain distance (50 kms is a good estimate) on low throttle openings (in traffic) without stopping or returning the throttle to fully closed position, the ECU recalculates the fully closed position of the throttle, presumably based on the furthest point you moved it back during a gear change or slow down at junction etc.
Then, during a gear change or some other occasion of low throttle, in my case I recall I was gearing down from 3rd to 2nd or 1st (thankfully not around a corner). If one closes the throttle beyond that new zero point then you are in a negative throttle value and fuel is shut off to the engine. Engine stalls.
My local BMW technician (considered an expert on the ECU and sensors) advised me to do the following: About once per week before setting off, switch the ignition on and fully open/close the throttle about 10 times in succession before switching off. This apparently recalibrates the ECU engine idle / cut off setting.
I have not experienced an engine stall since.
Then, during a gear change or some other occasion of low throttle, in my case I recall I was gearing down from 3rd to 2nd or 1st (thankfully not around a corner). If one closes the throttle beyond that new zero point then you are in a negative throttle value and fuel is shut off to the engine. Engine stalls.
My local BMW technician (considered an expert on the ECU and sensors) advised me to do the following: About once per week before setting off, switch the ignition on and fully open/close the throttle about 10 times in succession before switching off. This apparently recalibrates the ECU engine idle / cut off setting.
I have not experienced an engine stall since.
Correct, one can fi the ECU reset, but ten times regularly is rather excessive.
I have done the reset a few times on my prior moto and passed this to many others for whom it has worked.
Switch on but not fired up,
Grip throttle and slowly open fully then close also slowly, do this just 3 times then switch off the ignition.
Wait a minute and start up the engine.
Do this when its needed as apposed to each month, of course unless needed, but from my experience and of those others that followed this method, it was hardly needed.
Just a tip .
I have done the reset a few times on my prior moto and passed this to many others for whom it has worked.
Switch on but not fired up,
Grip throttle and slowly open fully then close also slowly, do this just 3 times then switch off the ignition.
Wait a minute and start up the engine.
Do this when its needed as apposed to each month, of course unless needed, but from my experience and of those others that followed this method, it was hardly needed.
Just a tip .
I have Not read ever post , but a lot. Hope I am not telling you how to suck eggs but.
Do not touch or twist the throttle when starting. That gives a false zero. Good luck
Do not touch or twist the throttle when starting. That gives a false zero. Good luck
RadioFlyer
Registered user
300,000 kms on our two bikes. Never had to do this throttle open/close thing.
Des Goslett
Registered user
You could be correct but I "reset" regularly not wanting an engine cut in a corner or some other dangerous situation....and since doing this I have not have an engine stall.
