Urban GS - suspension advice

Having owned numerous bikes since 1979, I still know very little about suspension or set up.

However, lower back pain, which very much limited my riding, was a very good measure of quality.

Sold after 1k miles as " Approved Used Warranty " officially restricted restricted modification.

That said, " Approved Used " didn't mention that the bike would be delivered with 10 PSI ( f ), following " full service ".

I immediately noticed the handling issue there !
Always check, never assume.
 
I had my Urban GS for about 4 years it had done 1100mls when I brought it during lockdown 2. I rode it for about a month and I could not believe how bad the ride was after a 100ml ride I was aching allover it was completely stock on TKC80s . So I tried adjusting the stock setup set the sag as best I could but there was nothing I could do with the forks. Still no better, next changed the shock for an M shock setup for my weight and fitted progressive front springs as that was the only one I could get and emulators plus adjustable fork tops for a F850GS. Next setup the sag then test ride it, the difference was night and day it cornered safely on Norfolk roads for those not in the know that is an achievement on its own. Started adjusting the ride to suit me then fitted Conti RA3s that was all I did and it transformed the bike a couple of friends rode the bike and could not believe how smooth the ride was, my total outlay was £500 plus tyres and time. Most Sundays in summer I regularly ride 150mls no problem on country roads not A roads.

View attachment 370912
One of these?

 
Thats it, tailored to suit good quality and rebuildable.
When you say 'tailored to suit'...

How does it work - do you have to visit them or do you give them your weight and they set it up for you? I'd be confident installing it.

And can you get by with just the rear shock or do you need the forks to be done too?

(again, sorry for the 'suspension newbie' questions!)
 
If you get onto there web site they will tell you, its a few question about your weight, do you carry a pillion how often, type of riding etc. You will be the only person to decide if the forks need doing, but the rear shock is the main problem. The forks do make a big difference but not as much as the shock.
 

Worth a look maybe


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Righto - finally go the bike

Before I look to buy anything, I want to try the bike out 'stock'.

I've seen on a Youtube video the baseline settings for damping on the Urban are fully locked clockwise, then 1.5 turns anti-clockwise and then for preload there should be 24mm of thread above the locknut.

To try and make the shock less 'hard' I'm assuming then I'd decrease the preload by reducing that amount of visible tread... but generally how much should I reduce it to? Just a few mm or more like a good CM or so?

Then do I change the damping or leave as is? (I don't understand how damping affects the 'hardness' of the suspension).

Basically, any advice on adjustments from the aforementioned baseline for a 85KG rider would be welcome!
 
Righto - finally go the bike

Before I look to buy anything, I want to try the bike out 'stock'.

I've seen on a Youtube video the baseline settings for damping on the Urban are fully locked clockwise, then 1.5 turns anti-clockwise and then for preload there should be 24mm of thread above the locknut.

To try and make the shock less 'hard' I'm assuming then I'd decrease the preload by reducing that amount of visible tread... but generally how much should I reduce it to? Just a few mm or more like a good CM or so?

Then do I change the damping or leave as is? (I don't understand how damping affects the 'hardness' of the suspension).

Basically, any advice on adjustments from the aforementioned baseline for a 85KG rider would be welcome!
First of all you need to measure (with a tape measure from Mudguard/seat to swingarm - ie 2 fixed points)

- static sag (bike at rest on side stand) you need to pull up on rear frame to extend the rear suspension to its fullest extent and then let it settle - this should be about 10% of the total travel
- rider sag (with you on it) this should be about 30% of total travel
NB - you will need a helper to achieve this work
NB - you need to measure/find out the total travel of the shock, to achieve these measurements of static and rider sag
If these 10&30% figures are not achievable then the shock spring is either too hard or too soft and you will know whether you need
- a new shock
- just a harder or softer spring

Repeat the same exercise for the forks to measure rider and static sag in the same way

Preload adjustment just alters ride height and not how hard the suspension is, as the shock & fork springs have a fixed linear/progressive hardness (maybe not the best word)

Damping controls the oil flow through the shims in the shock or forks and dictates how fast or slow the forks go up and down
You can have compression (how quick the suspension reacts to a bump) and rebound damping (how quickly suspension returns to normal after a bump, ready for compression to absorb the next bump)
Different weight of oil can improve/reduce damping speed, as can shims alterations internally
I would suggest the best improvement for your Urban would be a new better quality shock, with more damping adjustment parameters and maybe remote hydraulic preload adjustment
For the forks you would benefit from new fully adjustable new cartridge inserts
You could then fit the correct fork and shock springs for your weight too, at the same time

Depending on your height, some say a 40mm increase in suspension height improves the enjoyment of the bike no end

Brook suspension is a good place to contact
 
Well, you're all right. The ride on this bike is hard as hell!

I've not managed to do the sag/measurement, nor do I have c-spanner currently to adjust the preload, but I've toyed with the damping and it makes very little (if any) difference.

So, again assuming I'm a suspension noob, if I wanted a more soft/bouncy/plush/less-bone-jarring ride, like my old 1200 GS or RT (or any bike I've ever owned, for that matter!), I'm guessing that's a new shock, right?
 
In an ideal world you don't want to have to wind on any pre load as it cocks up the spring rate, as said you really want the bike sprung for your weight without any pre load.

I went with a relatively low cost option from Brooks suspension (andreani carts and a basic nitron shock) and it transformed the bike. They are familiar with the R9 and its wank suspenders.
I am very impressed with the Nitron unit for the money. Made and built to order in the uk.
 


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