Van Morrison Trail...a local ride.

Mzokk

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This isn’t a “trip report” as such but I wasn’t sure where else to post it. It was a nice day on Wednesday17 July and I thought I’d visit a few locations mentioned in Van Morrison songs in East Belfast and Co.Down. I have an eclectic taste in Music and like some of Van Morrison’s output. I’ve seen him live a few times and he (usually) puts on a good show but many don’t like his sometimes impenetrable, often mumbled, lyrics and grumpy demeanour. He’d probably fit right in here..... He was often referred to as “Laughing boy” by the late Steve Wright, who also said Brian Kennedy, who appeared on may of his albums in the 80’s and 90’s was his interpreter :D

Anyhow. Where it all began (“On Hyndford Street” Hymns to the Silence 1991)


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125 Hyndford Street Belfast. The house is typical of those found in the streets of the area this one is distinguished by a little brass plaque which was put on the house by the Belfast Blues Appreciation Society. The plaque, was unveiled by blues guitarist Buddy Guy.

The Hollow (“Brown Eyed Girl” 1967). Because of a contract he signed with Bang Records without legal advice, Morrison states that he has never received any royalties for writing or recording this song. Shame really as its the most downloaded song from the 1960’s and only one of 10 songs listed by the BMI having had more than 10 million radio plays. That would make you grumpy.

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In the Hollow is the Conn O’Neill bridge. Reputedly the oldest surviving structure in Belfast probably built around 1580. It was built on what were the lands of Conn O’Neill, a 16th Century Irishman who owned much of east Ulster (later lost to Scottish settlers). The bridge was described (in 1967) by Charles Brett as “a hoop of ancient stonework crumbling shamefully at the foot of a pylon in the derelict wasteland behind Abetta Parade” :D So...a ringing endorsement.

Just round the Corner from “The Hollow” is Elmgrove primary School which Van attended from 1950-56 (which features in the video for the song “The Healing Game” 1997) The song also features Georgie Fame on organ and Brian Kennedy as his official interpreter :D

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St Donard’s Church (“Beside You” Astral Weeks 1968 and “On Hyndford Street” Hymns to the Silence 1991).

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St Donard’s Church is named after a fifth century saint and follower of St Patrick who spent a prayerful life in a monastery in the Mountains of Mourne, County Down. Slieve Donard, Northern Ireland’s highest mountain, bears his name. Also the Church in which I was Christened.....though I became a devout heathen from an early age.

The Stadium (“Brown Eyed Girl” 1967) “making love in the green grass behind the stadium”. There is no consensus that the stadium referred to in the song is The Oval football ground (home to Glentoran) but since its the only sizeable stadium within walking distance of Hyndford Street that's what you are getting......oh and the shipyard cranes “Samson” and “Goliath”

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A better view of the Cranes :)

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Cyprus Avenue mentioned in (“On Hyndford Street” Hymns to the Silence 1991, “Orangefield” Avalon Sunset 1989 and “Cyprus Avenue” Astral Weeks 1968).

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Cyprus Avenue is only 500m from Hyndford Street’s small terraced houses, but a world away in terms of wealth and social status, with spacious detached Edwardian houses and large gardens.

The entrance to Orangefield Park at the end of Orangefield Lane ( “Orangefield” Avalon Sunset1989)This would have been the way the young Van Morrison would have walked to Orangefield Secondary School, which was demolished in 2014.

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In 1938, Belfast Corporation (now Belfast City Council) bought part of the Orangefield estate from its then owners, the Blakiston- Houston family, to develop as a public park. Development plans were put on hold during World War II. The American Army was based here and trained in Orangefield Park from 1942-44. A German Prisoner of War camp was set up nearby.

The old Belfast and County Down railway line from North Road bridge. Referred to in (“Evening Train”Magic Time 2005 “On Hyndford Street” Hymns to the Silence 1991, and “Cyprus Avenue” Astral Weeks 1968)

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The BCDR line is no longer used for trains; instead it has become the Comber Greenway, a walking and cycling route which runs for about 8miles from Comber to Belfast.

Now we go “off piste” a bit, the remaining locations are from the song “Coney Island” from the 1989 album Avalon Sunset. However, the lyrics don’t follow a pattern that you’d recognise on a map. So as well as the lyrics there is a bit of self directed mission creep. I’ve identified some places in the vicinity that interest me :D

The first stop is only 14 miles from Hyndford Street. This is the Light Ship Petrel at Ballydorn on Strangford Lough. It was built in 1915 by the Dublin Dockyard Co for the Commissioners of Irish Lights and is the only lightship still afloat in Ireland.

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She spent most of her service life at Blackwater Bank on the River Blackwater, Wexford and was decommissioned in 1968 and has since served as the Clubhouse to the Down Cruising Club.

A few hundred yards away are the remains of Sketrick Castle. The castle is estimated to date back to the 12th century and was largely intact until 1896 when a storm demolished much of it.

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TBC
 
Very interesting and informative thanks Marcus. You had a pint and a bite to eat in Daft Eddys I trust?
 
@Mzokk Thanks for a thoughtful, mini-homage to one of the more 'complex' personalities of popular music (from my 20s I always though of Van Morrison as being the Belfast equivalent of Montreal's Leonard Cohen - two industrialised, urban regions with religious and cultural complexities that underwent substantial social upheaval..).
Your bike looks lovely and makes its own visual statement. (I somehow feel that Van's compositions were framed in a harsher, 1960s/70s Black-and-White background, as were the times?). Loved the cranes and their continuing visual dominance over the area...
And thanks for weaving some of your homeland isle's unique and stored history into your tale.... Looking forward to the next installment!
 
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Very interesting and informative thanks Marcus. You had a pint and a bite to eat in Daft Eddys I trust?
Unfortunately not Aidan......If I started that capper I might have had to call the missus to collect me and bring me home :D Ended up with a few sore heads there over the years especially when old Barrie Branwell was still alive. :D
 
Unfortunately not Aidan......If I started that capper I might have had to call the missus to collect me and bring me home :D Ended up with a few sore heads there over the years especially when old Barrie Branwell was still alive. :D
Wasn't Barrie a doctor?
 
Wasn't Barrie a doctor?
Yip a very clever man. He started the contactors Bureau for doctors and told me he bought the whole of Sketrick Island for £22,000 in 1971......so a good investment!! Shame he had such an issue with alcohol. One of the last times I was chatting with him he was drinking pints of Vodka and orange half and half at about 11am :blast
 
Sounds like a very interesting character. I didn't know that Sketrick Island was privately owned.
 
Sounds like a very interesting character. I didn't know that Sketrick Island was privately owned.
Yip and if you look right of Daft Eddy's there are upwards of a dozen houses built since the 1970's sites sold off one by one. In the late 70's Early 80's he got a Yacht built in Taiwan and had a about four crews sail it back to Killinchy via the Suez Canal. As you say an interesting and clever bloke.
 
As Rory Gallagher (God Bless Him) said to me about Van, 'A genius but a difficult man'.
He is, difficult or not, on another wavelength, I remember seeing him in Bristol in 1978, one song rolled into another, like it was one long song, you came out of the gig feeling like you had been transported somewhere else for a couple of hours.
 
I was at school with Eric Wrixon, keyboard player with "Them" and did roadie now and again driving a battered old Bedford as I was the only 17 year old the knew with a driving licence (insurance - what's that?). Morrison was a grumpy fucker and on one gig (Belfast High School) he fell out with the punters and hurled abuse from the stage. All got very ugly and Eric packed up the keyboard and the drummer (forget his name) followed. Everything chucked in the back of the van and a quick retreat was made down the Cavehill Road before the cops arrived. Ran out of petrol on the Antrim Road and as nobody had any money, I had to put ten bobs worth in which Morrison said he would pay back after they got paid for their next gig in The Maritime. Still waiting :D
 


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