Vibration again.

Thanks for these. Ive just looked again on Fleabay and the supplier I quoted has only one in stock so that's a no go. :(

Called Pharma Hygiene Products. Phones busy so emailed.

Two of the domed type back to back could work but they are supposed to be welded and then how to get the shot and spacer inside. Hmm. Phoned - they have none in stock and at £7 each (plus plus) I'll try other options first. They don't stock the flat disc type.

Phoning around for laser cutting options.

Have a word with Ken Wilde at Daken Stainless on 01773 827535 - used to buy stuff like this from him all the time.

Tom
 
Sounds like you have an absolute pile of shite for a bike! Why not flog the fucker and save us all this shite.
 
Sounds like you have an absolute pile of shite for a bike! Why not flog the fucker and save us all this shite.

Can't argue with this. It's great in so many ways but when it's bad it's shite. But at 65K miles it's worth 1/2 of F all so I'm stuck with it.
 
go to a builders merchant and get a lead sheet for guttering. cut a piece off and roll it up tight to jam inside your bars. on second thoughts that is maybe too simple a solution.:D
 
go to a builders merchant and get a lead sheet for guttering. cut a piece off and roll it up tight to jam inside your bars. on second thoughts that is maybe too simple a solution.:D

I already have the OEM steel end weights. They help but not enough so just making them heavier is unlikely to do what I need.

It's not just about the bar end mass weight.
Lead is heavier than steel but not as much as people expect. It is though very soft so a cast lump simply bolted to the the end will quickly compress and rattle loose.

Lead shot 6.8 Kg per litre.
Solid lead 11.34 kg per litre
Steel 8.05 Kg per litre

Pouring molten lead into the bars sounds fab and it will add lots of weight but there is no energy absorption. It will also not do anything at the grip end because that's where the sleeve anchors are. Finally the tube walls are thick so not much mass can be added.

Fast Company have a brass rod insert that's rubber mounted into the bar end. It's supposed to move and absorb vibration but I'm not paying £60 plus delivery to find it only does 1/2 the job (as the Rox risers have).

Fasst Company also have vibration absorbing handlebars with polymer bushes. They are around £300 a pair but work in a vertical direction only. The Beemer shakes horizontally.

Vibranators are another idea. They are a turned steel bar end weight that also mass fills the bar tube under the hand grip. Maybe, but it's also expensive for what it is.

Bar snake sounds good but I couldn't find any useful information on their web site. It's all very mystic.

A dead blow hammer uses lead shot inside the hammer head to absorb the bounce.
I'm hoping to get the same effect. The shot won't be packed tight so the individuals balls can move and absorb energy.

The total mass will be close to solid steel so I'm gambling the movement of lead shot will be the big benefit. If it fails total cost will be about £40.




Sent somehow.
 
A mate of mine filled his bars with mastic (beware to drain holes) for his Tenere 600..... says it made a massive improvement....however, once it's in it ain't coming out so a one way trip if it doesn't work but sounds plausible to me.
 
I suspect that's what the bar snake is but info is sketchy.
Mastic is it will never set inside a tube who knows if that's why it helps.


Sent somehow.
 
Whats the internal diameter of the bars?

Use a sausage type balloon and fill it with lead shot, or as an alternative wet sand.

Should be easy to insert then.

Mart
 
http://www.barsnake.com/

Possibly the liquid version might be better.

Mart

Except its always out of stock. Did it ever exist? Did it work?

Lead shot is no problem. I'm tapping the Renthal bar ends to M16 and screwing in closed end steel adaptors with M12 internal threads. Fit one adapter, pour in shot and fit the other end. Pictures will follow. Waiting for M16 tap to arrive and some other stuff.
 
You could always put the original handlebars back on and stop pissing about :rob

That was worse for vibration and I always disliked the OEM sweep angle. Rox anti vibe risers helped a lot but not enough on long runs. The McGrath bend Renthals get the grip height right without the sweep back.
 
You could always put the original handlebars back on and stop pissing about :rob

What and end four riveting pages of what Bendy did next! I hardly slept last night wondering what wizard idea was going to solve the problem of the fiendish vibration... which is high frequency allegedly... ooww nasty. I am just waiting until NASA get involved...can't be long now :D
 
What and end four riveting pages of what Bendy did next! I hardly slept last night wondering what wizard idea was going to solve the problem of the fiendish vibration... which is high frequency allegedly... ooww nasty. I am just waiting until NASA get involved...can't be long now :D
NASA? more like lego
 
Another option is chop my hands off at the wrists. All vibration issues sorted. The only snag is driving the chainsaw while I cut the other one off.
 
Another option is chop my hands off at the wrists. All vibration issues sorted. The only snag is driving the chainsaw while I cut the other one off.

Vibrations may be giving you grief but at least your humour is fine :D
 
Thanks I saw that but the anchors he used were just a bit too fat. Only 1mm but enough to spoil the idea. Presumably fat bars have a thicker wall tube. I went for M10 sleeve anchors that use a 12mm hole and wrapped them with 1mm aluminium.
It worked but I have clunky nuts (rather than bolt heads) on the ends.
Vibes with no end weights are definitely worse but I need the ends to carry the hand guards.


Sent somehow.
 


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