Vibration again.

What and end four riveting pages of what Bendy did next! I hardly slept last night wondering what wizard idea was going to solve the problem of the fiendish vibration... which is high frequency allegedly... ooww nasty. I am just waiting until NASA get involved...can't be long now :D

The M16 tap and 30mm bolts have arrived. Now to find a way to tap the bar end and keep it aligned.
 
Strangly, after refitting the baffle into the akra, I am now getting a high frequency vibration in the handlebars.

Guess everyone else will just have to deal with the popping and booming.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk
 
Strangly, after refitting the baffle into the akra, I am now getting a high frequency vibration in the handlebars.

Guess everyone else will just have to deal with the popping and booming.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

Baffles in mine made no vibration difference that I could detect, though maybe my hands are too numb to tell. ;)

However, I have a Power Commander which runs rich with baffles so I live without them. It's only loud on the motorway and by them I'm wearing ear plugs. ;)
 
Mine has the decat headers and titanium akra plus retuned by geoff, with the baffle in there is definitely a high frequency tingle through the bars. Without baffle nothing.

This is commuting up and down motorway, which probably makes me more aware of it.

If it's cross country; knockhill,glendevon,gleneagles then low flying pheasants take precedence !

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Mine is worst between 4K and 5K revs. It's better above but more of a buzz. Not really a problem for 40 miles but after that it gets ever more miserable to cope with.


Sent somehow.
 
M16-M12 threaded inserts are going in this weekend and the bars filled with lead shot. (hopefully)


Sent somehow.
 
The bars are shot filled. M16 x M12 sleeves screws in and the shot filled bar ends are done and look pretty good. But they have zero effect on vibration at the grips. Disappointing but it wasn't costly to try.

This is how I got the silicone bungs out of the Renthals. Drill very gently with a sharp wood auger. Pill out with a stiff wire.
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Tapping the bar end. A tapping guide would be ideal but keep checking with a straight edge when starting the tap.
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Empty end weight.
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Shot filling.
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Fitted
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Sent somehow.
 
That amount of led shot wont make feck all difference.

From your post, i thought you were going to fill most of the bar with shot?

Melt the lead into slugs, and pack them into the bar ends then put on your weighted end cap

mart
 
The bar ends have a threaded insert from M16 down to to M12 for the retaining screw. The weights are 47mm ID x 37mm long (inside) minus the spacer tube. The bars and the end weights between them used almost all of that coke can full of lead shot. I can't detect any difference in vibration. I was hoping movement of the shot would help to damp the vibes but sadly not this time.

I may well fill the weights with cast lead but even if that doubles the mass I doubt there will be a huge difference, but its easy enough to try.

Another idea is to rubber mount the weights. Mass dampers create a lagging effect where the suspended weight cancels the next vibration pulse. I'm sure it "could" but who knows how to do the calculations.
 
Method 1

get a bag of lead shot & a tube of bath sealant ..

Pump 2 shots of sealant in, then pour in a good lump of shot ... repeat until you get to the bar end.

Method 2

get some lead flashing and wrap it round the grip/ bar in increasing qty's until you find the optimumdamping amount / position

when you have that , recreate the amount & position inside the bar using sealant and shot

mart
 
The bar ends have a threaded insert from M16 down to to M12 for the retaining screw. The weights are 47mm ID x 37mm long (inside) minus the spacer tube. The bars and the end weights between them used almost all of that coke can full of lead shot. I can't detect any difference in vibration. I was hoping movement of the shot would help to damp the vibes but sadly not this time.

I may well fill the weights with cast lead but even if that doubles the mass I doubt there will be a huge difference, but its easy enough to try.

Another idea is to rubber mount the weights. Mass dampers create a lagging effect where the suspended weight cancels the next vibration pulse. I'm sure it "could" but who knows how to do the calculations.

They use doinkers (mass dampers in archery)

have a look at Quicks webs site to see if they have any off the shelf item that may be of use


Mart
 
Method 1

get a bag of lead shot & a tube of bath sealant ..

Pump 2 shots of sealant in, then pour in a good lump of shot ... repeat until you get to the bar end.

Method 2

get some lead flashing and wrap it round the grip/ bar in increasing qty's until you find the optimumdamping amount / position

when you have that , recreate the amount & position inside the bar using sealant and shot

mart
Or method 3
Fix the real problem which may involve removing all bendys aftermarket add ons which include different fuel pump a power commander which hasn't been set up and whatever else he's added to improve it over standard as there's obviously something not right failing that trade it in for another one and save us from all this papering over the cracks shite
 
Or method 3
Fix the real problem which may involve removing all bendys aftermarket add ons which include different fuel pump a power commander which hasn't been set up and whatever else he's added to improve it over standard as there's obviously something not right failing that trade it in for another one and save us from all this papering over the cracks shite

Its always vibrated at motorway speeds but hasn't got worse with any of the add-ons. The Anti Vibe risers certainly help but not enough.

Chopping it in does make sense but I don't want a Toilet or a K1600 and the Africa Twin is nothing special.

I fail to see how silicone sealant and lead shot can do anything different. It will only get mixed up so what's the point? Being boxed up, the sealant will never set. Is there any evidence that it works?
 
Sorry to hear of your vibe woes.

It's such an individual thing vibies it seems.

For me it's the high frequency 4 cylinder stuff that got to me and made me hands go dead after a long ride, ditto modernish parallel twins and even the fabled, super smooth triples.

More modern Boxers have been a delight from that point of view to me at least, the duff duff duff at low revs is fine, mine at least have been smooth as butter in what I'd call the practical riding rev range although if you rag 'em (to no great speed advantage mind) they can be rougher and tingly but frankly who buys an oilhead boxer twin and revs it without mercy, what would be the point?

Apologies if it's been asked before but what bikes don't or haven't given you the problem? Given that sensitivities and underlying conditions, occasionally caused by many years of other occupational related activity, or just bike riding in general, can excacerbate any physical sensitivities.

Has anyone else had a go and pronounced it unusually vibey?

You appear to be extremely sensitive to this type of vibration for reasons so far unknown or have some mechanical issue(s).

Frankly, I think pissing around with the handle bars will do little, if any good.
 
I fail to see how silicone sealant and lead shot can do anything different. It will only get mixed up so what's the point? Being boxed up, the sealant will never set. Is there any evidence that it works?

The sealant is to stop the shot from rattling around. and trust me, it does go off, :)

Mart
 


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