Wandering handling

[Jamieboy]

I'm a bit stumped as to where to lay the blame for an odd sensation when riding my 1150 GSA - sure you gents will have some ideas though!

Bike feels as if it wants to wander around slightly, most noticeably when on a negative throttle or when coasting below 30 mph. It's possible to ride without danger (I think/hope), but feels vague and completely 'unconnected'.

When I felt this I noticed play in my paralever bearings, got them tightened, still play - had them replaced by Steptoe. Thought that would have been the cause of the handling wobble and expected it to be sorted. But it's not.

Tyres are nearly new Anakee 2s. My next thought is for these. Anyone know if tyres being out of balance could cause vague handling? Or whether this issues has cropped up on Anakee 2s?

I've also seen recent posts on front ball joint, which I guess could have an affect like this - but not sure.

My first thought is to have the wheel balance checked as it's cheap - and then go from there. Sound sensible?

 

[Steptoe]

Try different tyre pressures and see if that makes any difference..

Tyres out of balance usually cause vibration.

 

[Roadcaptain]

shocks?

 

[Grizzly]

Also check tyres are fitted correctly for direction of rotation - just in case!.
I run Anakee 2's all the time on the GS and no problems - great tyres

There's always great debate when you mention tyre pressures on here and everybody has there own ideas, but I run Anakee 2's at 32psi front 36psi rear when solo and that works great (in my opinion!) and around 34 and 39 2-up, then 35 and 42 2-up with full luggage.

That's on a standard 1150GS

Also check the bearing in the top yoke below the handlebars for movement.
Are all clamp screws in bottom yoke secure?
Are fork bottom clamp screws secure? etc.


Cheers..................Grizzly

 

[Jamieboy]

Thanks Gents,

I will drop tyre pressures for the commute home this eve and see if that makes any difference. I've been running 35 - 40 solo so maybe a bit higher than others. Will report back.

Grizzly, thanks for the suggestions of things to check as well. Numbers 2 and 3 I can figure out, but how do I check the top yoke bearing for movement? Is it below that black plastic cover south of the ignition?

Shocks are almost certainly past their best but this feels like a slight lateral wobble rather than an up and down one - but maybe shocks can cause that and I just don't know what I'm on about. Want to check cheaper things first though.

 

[oblertone]

Another vote for tyre pressures; ISTR that when Anakee II were launched they needed to be slightly overinflated, but possibly not as high as you have them.

 

[Grizzly]

Hi jamieboy,
Yep top yoke bearing is under that middle black cover.
Mine must have lasted 150k or so then noticed slight movement at bars - you should be able to check it by removing black cover and feeling/looking at bearing while pushing/pulling slightly on bars with front brake on - hope that sounds sensible

Also worth checking tyre beads have "popped" up onto rim correctly when fitted.

Cheers.....................Grizzly

 

[monkeyboy]

Hi jamieboy,
Yep top yoke bearing is under that middle black cover.
Mine must have lasted 150k or so then noticed slight movement at bars - you should be able to check it by removing black cover and feeling/looking at bearing while pushing/pulling slightly on bars with front brake on - hope that sounds sensible

Also worth checking tyre beads have "popped" up onto rim correctly when fitted.

Cheers.....................Grizzly

When you check for play at the bars, either pull the bar ends or the bars in the middle. The grips have some lateral play in themselves that you can mistake for play in the bars/bearing

 

[Jamieboy]

Dropped pressures to 32/36 this morning. Feels different but not convinced it is cured - kind of difficult to feel properly when fighting London rush hour. Will try to ride about a bit during the weekend to get more of a feel for it. Will also check the easier of the suggested factors above.

Ball joint rubber cover thing appears to be split - so may have had shed loads of salty spray ingress over the last month or so.

 

[bimmerboxer]

My Steering arm bushing and joint links are loose....again. This causes the fork seals to leak as well. Any advice on how to remove and replace the joint links, i.e. the two bushes at the top of each fork??

 

[Flipfly]

The GSA seems less precise than the standard GS to me. I am investing in some new shocks, not because the handling is awful, just because it seems a little vague and there isn't the precision of my old GS. I could ride it forever more as it is, but I figure that it's a keeper so I might as well invest in getting it 100% rather than 98% perfect

 

[Slipperyeel]

Dropped pressures to 32/36 this morning. Feels different but not convinced it is cured - kind of difficult to feel properly when fighting London rush hour. Will try to ride about a bit during the weekend to get more of a feel for it. Will also check the easier of the suggested factors above.

Ball joint rubber cover thing appears to be split - so may have had shed loads of salty spray ingress over the last month or so.

I think you've found your problem. Ball joint. I had exactly the same thing on my old GS. It was transformed after fitting a new one. In fact I was amazed at how sensitive the front set up is to little imperfections and that ball joint is clearly critical to it all working.

The job is straight forward, but getting the old ball joint off is fun. Heat, a vice and some long levers of wood will be handy!

 

[Jamieboy]

Thanks all, I'm starting thinking ball joint might be the culprit - just looked on motorworks - £82! Quite surprised it's this much!

I'd like to do it myself, but don't have a vice or heat gun - and presume from the above and a couple of post I recall that it's really not doable without the right tools/set up.

Will still try a couple of other things prior to embarking down that road - checking tyres, torques etc.

 

[Slipperyeel]

If you're in London (I think you are?) Perhaps I can help with removal and torqued refit of the ball joint. I'll pm my number. All in it's half a days work, even with the faffing about. This assumes you don't want to respray the yoke, which you might? Depends on the condition of it? Even with that it's 3/4 of a day.

 

[monkeyboy]

Thanks all, I'm starting thinking ball joint might be the culprit - just looked on motorworks - £82! Quite surprised it's this much!

I'd like to do it myself, but don't have a vice or heat gun - and presume from the above and a couple of post I recall that it's really not doable without the right tools/set up.

Will still try a couple of other things prior to embarking down that road - checking tyres, torques etc.

Just as an aside - I'm looking at a problem that I think may be related to the front ball joint. I roll my bike backwards down a slope into the garage and I get little kickbacks through the bars when I do it. When the bike is static, moving the bars side to side gives significant kicks every, say 15-20 degrees. Really notchy. I'm going to change the joint anyway as my seal left the bike some time ago but was just interested if you have this symptom.

 

[Jamieboy]

Slipperyeel - that's very generous offer, thanks a lot. If I rule out other causes then I may well be in touch.

Monkeyboy, no notchiness when moving bars that i've noticed. Hope the ball change sorts yours.

 

[Grizzly]

It seems to take quite a lot to totally f---k the ball-joint. If the rubber gaiter is burst the ball-joint is maybe just DRY?
I got a new gaiter for mine off of Ebay...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150947104210?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

which fitted fine.


Cheers ................... Grizzly

 

[Slipperyeel]

Jamieboy, you're welcome. Just keep me posted. I don't think it's an urgent job, nothing is going to break, it's just annoying and hard work (through traffic!). So at your leisure




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[Slipperyeel]

It seems to take quite a lot to totally f---k the ball-joint. If the rubber gaiter is burst the ball-joint is maybe just DRY?
I got a new gaiter for mine off of Ebay...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150947104210?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

which fitted fine.


Cheers ................... Grizzly

I think if the handling/steering hasn't gone off then you might get away with just replacing the gaiter. But after discovering myself the transformation off replacement, i'd go for that every time. Compared with sorting the suspension it's an easy cheap job!!! DAMHIK!!!



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[Jamieboy]

I think (famous last words)... i've got it sorted. Only had a brief ride so the commute tomorrow morning should be more conclusive.

I basically took the front wheel off, retorqued fork clamps, installed front wheel and torqued up axle and clamp bolts. Not sure what was loose, but one of the steps seems to have improved things.

I guess gratifyingly sometimes it is the simplest thing, despite worrying about all the more annoying and complicated stuff.

Thanks all for the input. Appreciated as ever.