Water loss- emulsified oil found in crank breather pipe and air box?

[Losttheplot]

Hi guys,

Checked my bike before the hardalpitour a few weeks back, and noticed the water was a a little low, dually topped it up and didn't think much more of it.

Going over the bike again yesterday, whilst fitting chain and sprockets etc, and while i had the air filter out for a check and clean, noticed a small puddle of emulsified oil in the bottom of the air box, in the same corner that the crank breather connects into.

I checked the water and also found this on the low side.

Now the main oil tank shows no signs of water in the oil, so i figure it's probably not the water pump leaking, but i can't think how else i could be getting this emulsified oil in the breather pipe?

Bike runs fine and doesn't seem to be making any strange noises.

Any thoughts as to possible cause? or is it just a case of emulsified oil building up in the breather over time and just wants cleaning out (my bike isn't fitted with a thermostat), and chuck a bottle of rad weld into the radiator?

Nathan

 

[ian640]

Hi Nathan,

In seven years of ownership of an X bike I've noticed the coolant level drop very, very slightly twice. No more than a centimetre measured at the expansion tank. I put this down to ambient temperature and evaporation and the like, having observed absolutely no coolant leaks.

If your bike stands for long periods of time it may be that there's condensation in the oil circuit including the breather. I was taught, after giving a bike a wash, to run it to 'operating temperature' to get rid of any condensation inside the engine etc.

I would have thought a leak allowing the coolant and oil to mix results in the oil turning a custard colour in the oil tank and oil in the coolant.

In short I wouldn't worry about it too much but just keep an eye on things and not reach straight for the rad weld.

All IMHO and I accept no responsibility for anything

Cheers,

Ian.

 

[GFJ]

I've previously had emulsified oil gathering around the neck of the filler, particularly in colder weather riding. Can't recall much in the airbox, but I have had to occasionally drain some water off from the airbox drain pipe.

Its been 4 degrees on the way to work a couple of mornings recently. Maybe its just as a result of moisture in the oil and colder weather?

 

[Robster]

Mine had emulsified oil all in the neck of the oil filler when I bought it. The previous (and only other) owner had used it for a very short commute to work of about 4 miles each way, hence it had never had a chance to properly warm up.
I read somewhere that that would lead to condensation and hence the emulsified oil.

 

[Smug]

Too many short journeys, not allowing the condensation in the engine to fully evaporate.

 

[Losttheplot]

Too many short journeys, not allowing the condensation in the engine to fully evaporate.

It would be nice if that was the case, but the bike only tends to get used for weekend trail rides, generally anything from 80-150 miles if i go out.

It's just recently done 480 miles of trails in 36 hours as well.

Not like it's just been down the shops for a pint of milk is it?

 

[Losttheplot]

Mine had emulsified oil all in the neck of the oil filler when I bought it. The previous (and only other) owner had used it for a very short commute to work of about 4 miles each way, hence it had never had a chance to properly warm up.
I read somewhere that that would lead to condensation and hence the emulsified oil.

I've had some slight emulsification around the filler neck on the oil tank, but this has generally been in the middle of winter when it hasn't just been cold, the slippery conditions mean wide throttle openings are few and far between. No sign of this at present though.

 

[Losttheplot]

Looks like the problem has revealed itself at last. Today I drained over a pint of oil out of the air box after 30 miles on the trails.

Looks like the head gasket has failed. Now need to source replacement parts while I'm in Spain to get the bike fixed and still get some riding in on Gregs trip.

Does anybody have the torque values for the cylinder head bolts please?

 

[GFJ]

Will look for you in about an hour.

 

[ian640]

Looks like the problem has revealed itself at last. Today I drained over a pint of oil out of the air box after 30 miles on the trails.

Looks like the head gasket has failed. Now need to source replacement parts while I'm in Spain to get the bike fixed and still get some riding in on Gregs trip.

Does anybody have the torque values for the cylinder head bolts please?

Sorry to hear that. Question from a non-expert: not the water pump?

Hope you get it fixed and still have a great trip.

 

[GFJ]

From the reprom (UK)

Tightening torques 0165 - G 650 Xchallenge

Oil-pressure valve
24 Nm

Cylinder base to engine block
M6 x 30
10 Nm

Oil check valve
24 Nm

Cylinder head cover to cylinder head
M6 x 48
10 Nm

Cylinder head to engine block
M10
tighten in diagonally opposite sequence
Initial torque, 20 Nm
Final torque, 60 Nm

Cylinder head to cylinder
M8 x 53
Tightening sequence: see Repair Manual
30 Nm

Camshaft carrier to cylinder head
M6 x 45
10 Nm

Cylinder to cylinder head
M6 x 30
10 Nm

 

[GFJ]

Some other instruction that may help (no pics unfortunately)

(+) Removing cylinder head
(-) Removing cylinder head

Disconnect plug (3) of the coolant temperature sensor.

Open hose clip (2) with pliers (No. 17 5 500).

Disconnect coolant hose (1) from the cylinder head and catch the escaping coolant.

Disconnect plug (1) of the oil-pressure sensor.

Place a support beneath the rear wheel to relieve the strain on the threaded fastener between the cylinder head and the spring-strut mount.

Remove nut (1).

Tap out screw (4).

Removing threaded fastener, frame/cylinder head

Remove screw (5).

Remove screw (4).

Slacken locknut (3) with pin wrench (No. 11 6 661), while counter-holding adjuster sleeve (2).

Back off adjuster sleeve (2) and remove washer (1).

Remove screws (1).

Remove screw (2).

Remove the screws from the cylinder head at the front.

Remove the screws from the cylinder head at the top.

Remove the nuts from the cylinder head.

Lift the cylinder head until it is clear of the studs, then turn the cylinder head and manoeuvre it up to remove.



(+) Installing cylinder head
(-) Installing cylinder head

Remove all traces of sealing compound and gasket from the sealing faces; the sealing faces must be free of oil and grease.

Install a new cylinder-head gasket.

Use a wire hook to pull the timing chain through the chain cavity in the cylinder head.

Install screws and nuts to hold the cylinder head and cylinder in position, but leave the fasteners loose.

Tighten cylinder-head nuts (1), (2), (3), (4).

Tightening torques
Cylinder head to engine block
M10
tighten in diagonally opposite sequence
Initial torque, 20 Nm
Final torque, 60 Nm

Tighten the screws securing cylinder head to cylinder in the sequence illustrated here, i.e. (5), (6), (7), (8), (9).

Tightening torques
Cylinder head to cylinder
M8 x 53
Tightening sequence: see Repair Manual
30 Nm

Tighten screws (10).
Tightening torques
Cylinder to cylinder head
M6 x 30
10 Nm

Installing threaded fastener, frame/cylinder head

Seat adjuster sleeve (2) with washer (1) against the cylinder head.

Install screw (4) with washer and tighten until hand-tight.

Install screw (5) with washer.

Tightening torques
Cylinder head to frame, left
M10 x 40 - 10.9, Lubricate screw
Optimoly TA
74 Nm

Back off adjuster sleeve (2) until washer (1) is in contact with the cylinder head.

Tightening torques
Adjuster sleeve to cylinder head
No play
max 5 Nm

Tighten locknut (3), using pin wrench (No. 11 6 661).
Tightening torques
Locknut, adjuster sleeve
100 Nm

Tighten screw (4).
Tightening torques
Cylinder head to frame, right
M10 x 55-10.9, Lubricate screw
Optimoly TA
74 Nm

Align spring-strut mount (2) with cylinder head (3).

Hold screw (4) in position and tap into its bore.

Install nut (1).

Tightening torques
Central bracket to cylinder head
M12, install with T-shaped sleeve
80 Nm

Connect plug (1) of the oil-pressure sensor.

Connect plug (3) of the coolant temperature sensor.

Secure coolant hose (1) to the cylinder head.

Close clip (2) with pliers (No. 17 5 500).


cut some stuff out here re valve gaps


Finishing work
Installing cylinder head cover

Installing starter

Securing throttle-valve stub

Installing oil tank

Installing exhaust manifold

Securing cable for oxygen sensor

Installing direct ignition coil for primary spark plug

Installing direct ignition coil for secondary spark plug

Installing intake air silencer

Installing battery

Filling coolant system

Pouring engine oil into engine

Installing centre trim panel

Installing left side panel

Installing right side panel

Installing seat

Checking engine oil level

Final check of work performed

 

[Losttheplot]

Thank you

 

[Shep]

Have you modified the breather at all? Extended breathers can cause build up of moisture/condensation sometimes! You could also try blanking off portions of the radiator or oil cooler both help cool the engine but obviously take care!!