Water pump failure...

Losttheplot

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Looks like my water pump has finally gone. Started the bike this morning and there is a continuous trickle coming from the breather hole on the pump.

Has anyone replaced one of the G series bikes yet? Is there an online guide, or is it relatively straight forward to do?

Thanks,

Nathan
 
Here:-

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/VB1MaqOsqiE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Whoops, wrong link sorry....:D
Here:-

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/GnAm9lPnAO8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Here:-

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/VB1MaqOsqiE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Whoops, wrong link sorry....:D
Here:-

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/GnAm9lPnAO8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Thanks T!

just need a new pump for my washing machine now :D
 
What was the fluid likely to be that the guy in the second video was using? anything special or just a simple assembly lubricant?
 
What was the fluid likely to be that the guy in the second video was using? anything special or just a simple assembly lubricant?

Well it looks like it was Molykote 111 - a rubber friendly silicon assembly lubricant if the BMW parts fiche is to be believed.
 
Electric pump options...

So it would seem the electric pump option is not so daft as it originally seemed.

And it got my grey matter stirring slightly. My bike no longer has a thermostat in the radiator, so would running an electric pump controlled off the engine temperature sender achieve the same effect?

The lack of stat is not a problem come summer time in the UK-it doesn't seem to have any problems, but the bike can be a pain in the arse come winter, which i think may well be down to the engine never getting up to a decent operating temperature. Silly things like stalling instead of ticking over being the main issue- especially when coming off the throttle.

IIRC the temperature sender is mounted in the cylinder head, so should give an accurate representation of the engines true temperature?

As for pumps, i've had a quick look at 12v central heating pumps for caravans and boats. They should be able to handle the range of operating temperatures and also any seals should be able to tolerate the antifreeze/coolant additive.

Possible pump options:

http://www.elyboatchandlers.com/12v-central-heating-pumps/jabsco-eco-circ-12v-central-heating-pump?source=Froogle

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/110933052565?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&chn=ps&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0

Is flow rate likely to be an issue? or is it a case that as long as there is a reasonable flow around the engine and radiator it doesn't matter? With the standard pump the flow rate increases with revs, but with an electric pump, flow would be constant.

Alternatively, is it not an issue? while a slower flow would result in slightly hotter engine block and head, would this potential extra heat be off set by the increased retention time in the radiator, allowing greater cooling, and cooler water entering the block and head in the first place?

thoughts please?
 
first and biggest issue i can think of is where you would put it:D
there is no room for anything on the bike.
next on the list would be how much current it will draw as you only have 280watts to start with.
i never want to be negative about things but i would rebuild the pump and leave it standard.
OMO of course
edit ,just had a look at the spec of the 2nd one listed.
current draw is quite small but its a bit bulky
 
first and biggest issue i can think of is where you would put it:D

Probably site it behind the engine block, where the ABS pump would sit if my bike had one fitted, which it doesn't :D, this would also connect straight into the water outlet on the back of the block, hen feed the water around to the radiator.

Not got as far as solving the other issues you raise, and seeing as the parts have turned up to rebuild the original pump that will be my current course of action.

Why does the water pump take longer to replace on an XChallenge than a funduro? for starters you don't have the oil feed pipe to get in the way :augie
 
I don't think having a pump that only works on the trigger from the thermostat is a good idea as presumably the water flow around the cylinder etc is designed to keep everything at a balanced temp, avoiding localised heat spots that could cause damage or warping perhaps.

Could be worth googling to see if any other manufacturers have gone for this as a solution. I like the thinking, but could be an expensive thing to test.
 
Just started removing the clutch casing. Please tell me I don't have to strip the whole bike just to remove the clutch side frame casting just to remove one little bolt that holds the casing on?
 
Not really something you can easily change on the road since you have to strip most of the bike.

Fortunately pump failures aren't very common on the G650x series, at least not as common as on the twin spark F650.

My Dakar pump was still going strong after 30,000 miles when I sold it. Hopefully the xCountry will last as long.
 
have you not finished this little job yet:D:D

Bike is all back together as of yesterday evening, apart from needing the hoses fitting to the water pump, and the oil and coolant replacing. Frost bike in my finger tips put me off trying to do anymore today.

Also need to get the bolts checked after last night- does anyone happen to have a list of the torque values for the frame bolts?

The actual job was relatively straightforward, the annoying part was all the bolts from the frame leg into the engine casings, and getting them to move (they haven't moved in 7 years).
 


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