rce
Registered user
I would prefer the plastic/nylon variety, surely better to have a sacrificial easy to replace part than move the wear to the pump body.
Water Pump weakness
- Thread starter Captain Black
- Start date
I would prefer the plastic/nylon variety, surely better to have a sacrificial easy to replace part than move the wear to the pump body.
Nearly all bikeimpellers are made from plastic, KTM included with no problems.
Tim, What do you think of my idea re the oil return pipe ? Is it a shit idea and shall i stand in the corner with two pencils up my nose for thinking it ?
I thought get a new/old solid oil pipe and cut at a distance away from both connections and add some flexi pipe and secure with clamps ? Making it easy to remove but not having as much risk of kinks etc etc. It could be routed as per the original and then just bent out of the way to get the clutch cover off.
What ya reckon ???
Flying banana
Registered user
I have just done this job on mine at 16000 miles. Bit of a pain of a job, but some of that was down to it being the first time I had done the job. The oil pipe was actually not as bad as I thought it might be, but i think I will still sort out a re-route as it will make things easier next time.
The water pump shaft had been worn by the seals as usual. Anyone who wants info about it, look on the f650.com site. It is fantastic and provides all the info you need. Including how to do the job without a manual. And you will need to take the footrest off.
Based on the wear seen, I fully expect to have to do this job again. What a stupid, stupid design!!!! Who thought it would be a good idea to run a shaft on rubber/plastic seals that turns at the speed I guess it does.
The water pump shaft had been worn by the seals as usual. Anyone who wants info about it, look on the f650.com site. It is fantastic and provides all the info you need. Including how to do the job without a manual. And you will need to take the footrest off.
Based on the wear seen, I fully expect to have to do this job again. What a stupid, stupid design!!!! Who thought it would be a good idea to run a shaft on rubber/plastic seals that turns at the speed I guess it does.
It is not a bad idea at all.
Tim, What do you think of my idea re the oil return pipe ? Is it a shit idea and shall i stand in the corner with two pencils up my nose for thinking it ?
I thought get a new/old solid oil pipe and cut at a distance away from both connections and add some flexi pipe and secure with clamps ? Making it easy to remove but not having as much risk of kinks etc etc. It could be routed as per the original and then just bent out of the way to get the clutch cover off.
What ya reckon ???
You actually have done well to ask.
First off, you need to have the bike on the side stand.
Next, if you look on the right hand side of the engine, near the water temperature sensor, there is a bleed nipple. Looks just like the one on the brake calipers.
Loosen it. This allows the the air in the coolant system to escape and ensures that the temp sensor is in actual water. If it is not, you may overheat the engine without knowing.
So, once opened, start filling the radiator with coolant, until it starts leaking from the nipple. at this point you screw the nipple in. Fill up some more and then unscrew the nipple to get as much air out as you can.
I find that you will still need to squeeze the coolant hoses to get more air out.
When the air has been bled and the radiator shows full, you can put the bike on the centrestand. If you do not have one, just lift the bike as best you can to normal riding angle. This will allow you to top up the radiator.
At this point, all that is left to do is fill the overflow tank to the middle between the high and low lines. For good measure, squeeze the pipes a few times, and recheck the coolant level in the rad.
Good luck!
First off, you need to have the bike on the side stand.
Next, if you look on the right hand side of the engine, near the water temperature sensor, there is a bleed nipple. Looks just like the one on the brake calipers.
Loosen it. This allows the the air in the coolant system to escape and ensures that the temp sensor is in actual water. If it is not, you may overheat the engine without knowing.
So, once opened, start filling the radiator with coolant, until it starts leaking from the nipple. at this point you screw the nipple in. Fill up some more and then unscrew the nipple to get as much air out as you can.
I find that you will still need to squeeze the coolant hoses to get more air out.
When the air has been bled and the radiator shows full, you can put the bike on the centrestand. If you do not have one, just lift the bike as best you can to normal riding angle. This will allow you to top up the radiator.
At this point, all that is left to do is fill the overflow tank to the middle between the high and low lines. For good measure, squeeze the pipes a few times, and recheck the coolant level in the rad.
Good luck!
Thanks!
I was pretty sure that this jeeds some tricks to get all air away and to prevent air lock.
I did read from that some had drilled a little hole to thermostat to make procedure easier.
In cars i think i have seen a hole.
I was pretty sure that this jeeds some tricks to get all air away and to prevent air lock.
I did read from that some had drilled a little hole to thermostat to make procedure easier.
In cars i think i have seen a hole.
I've looked for the bleed screw's but my bike just has what looks like a normal torx head bolt. Maybe they did'nt all have the bleed screw like on brake calipers ?
"... if you look on the right hand side of the engine, near the water temperature sensor, there is a bleed nipple. Looks just like the one on the brake calipers."
The drain screw is the lowest most screw on the water pump housing but that is only to remove the coolant from.
more info here:
http://faq.f650.com/GSFAQs/Coolant_Change_FAQGS.htm
The drain screw is the lowest most screw on the water pump housing but that is only to remove the coolant from.
more info here:
http://faq.f650.com/GSFAQs/Coolant_Change_FAQGS.htm
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