Up to Oost Nera, End of Day 1 Road of Bones
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Another! out of sequence video!
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I passed the turn off for the route down through the old summer road. I took the track down to have a look at the river, if I was able to get across I was going to give this way a shot but there wasn’t a hope in hell of getting across. I hung around for about an hour to see if a truck was going to come by but the roads much as they had been for the last two days were all but empty.
The traffic is diverted down a mud path which leads directly out into the river. Can you imagine that back home? A road where part of the route is to go through a river, it’s like some sort of Japanese game show contestant drew the map and is chuckling away at the thought of all the old grannies floating away down the river in their ladas. This is the same bridge that the guys in the long way round came unstuck at and were able to get a truck across.
l went down the mud path, the only reason I was able to get back up was because it hadn’t been raining in a couple of days. Nothing but a Kamaz truck could attempt the river crossing. The locals then told me that this section of the road was completely kaput. It was obvious from the crossing that this way was only doable in winter when the rivers are frozen.
The river along with many that I’d seen that day was still loaded up with ice and it was a strange feeling standing there watching the remainder of the bridge getting slowly destroyed by the rushing water.
I got back on the bike and drove a couple of km up the road to one of the loneliest gas stations on planet earth. A couple of guys hang out here with no one around for miles and miles and service the few solitary cars and trucks that pass by each day. There’s no human contact at the gas stations either, you just pass the money in a hatch slightly bigger than a letter box and they turn on the gas till you’ve used up what you’ve paid for.
From that gas station it was another 200km up to Oost Nera, where I planned to put the head down for the night. The first 100km of this road, while gravel is very fast, at times I was up 120km and the bike was still well in control. The only places where the road became difficult were when they were doing construction.
I got to Oost Nera around 9pm, filled up with gas again and enquired as to the location of the hotel.
The town itself is in ribbons, so many of the towns and villages I’ve driven through in this part of the world are like post apocalyptic relics. Tons of rusting machinery is strewn across the landscape, old wooden houses all either collapsed or on the verge of it, derelict high rises with windows smashed in; you can’t help but think “surely no one lives here”.
The hotel was a tip but at that stage all I was looking for was a door between me and the mosquitoes. The water coming out of the taps was brown, no doubt fed directly from a nearby river. I checked in through a small hatch and was given a key to a room on the third floor.
I walked up the three flights of stone stairs. Each step was once painted green, and prior to that orange with the area you placed your foot just bare stone from use, I couldn’t help but think it looked like the Ireland flag. The room itself had just a net curtain across the window, and the light came from a florescent tube overhead. The toilet in the bathroom was pressed so far up against the wall that unless you were orange, 4 feet tall and fond of the song “lumpa lumpa lumpadie do” a forest gump was out of the question. The 70 bucks gets you some comfort out these parts!
Next door a wedding jammed on well into the early hours, it seemed like the whole town was invited.
Day 2 tomorrow...
Take care
Oisin