What goes around comes around... Dublin to New york

Barnaul to the Altay Region in Southern Russia

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I got the call from Oksana that the tires would be in the post office by early afternoon so I headed off to collect them and bring them down to bikeland to get fitted. Alexi, Roman, and Maxim were there and had me on my way in no time. If anyone is planning a similar trip through Russia on a motorbike, Bikeland have offices in St. Petersberg, Moscow, Kazan and Barnaul and can get you tires in 2 – 3 days.

With the knobblies fitted and brake pads and fluid changed I headed back to the hotel to get packed up and ready to leave. I said to myself, “ok haven’t been hammered in Russia yet”, so I headed out to put that straight. I went to a restaurant/bar called Carte Blanche and got the ball rolling over a steak and 3 Carlsbergs. Any of the literature about going out in Barnaul talks about the Pilot club so I headed of down Lenin Street to find it. I bumped into two students Anastasia and Kate who told me that it had been closed and reopened under another name.

They said that it was crap anyway and that the place I should go is a place they were headed, so we jumped in a taxi and headed off. Much to my surprise the happening place, Club 13 was actually only a 2 minute walk from my hotel which would come in handy.

The bar had a live band playing knocking out loads of western rock, and these guys could play; although at this stage I’d about eight pints on so they could have been castrating cats and I’ve have thought it was pretty good. Knowing I was headed off to the Altay Region in the morning I said goodnight to the girls and headed back to the hotel. In the lobby the security lads were watching porn on the lobby TV. A saluted them good night and something to the tune of “Giddy up outta that!”

The next morning I woke with a brutal hangover and packed up the bike to head south to the Altay region, it would be my first night camping on the trip, and also my last night in Russia. I knew when I left Barnaul there was probably no more “comforts” between me and Ulaanbaatar in Mogolia.

I drove south passing through the town of Biysk and continued south another 200km. The Altay region starts slow, hills turn into mountains, apparently tomorrow things will get even better, but these were the first hills I'd seen since the Carpathians in the Ukraine so it was a welcome change.

The further you drive south and the closer you get to the border with Mongolia, even though at this stage I was over 200 miles away from it, there is nothing on the roads. It was like I had the Altay to myself.

With sunset about an hour away I started looking for a place to camp. If I’m honest about it camping in Russia scared the crap out of me. It’s one thing camping in a campsite, or even in touristy areas like Alaska, Canada etc but Russia? There was one too many AK-47’s knocking around for my liking. I found a spot by a stream which had a mound blocking the view of the tent from the road and had a look around to make sure I wasn’t pitching the tent in someone’s back garden.

I pitched the tent and had my first outdoor crap of the trip, a key moment in any trip. I’ve been there before, but this was my first in years where I didn’t have to do it out of pure necessity.ie it was a choice of blowing a load in your jocks or drop the tweeds and let it off.

It’s a highly over rated experience, I was certain someone would come round the corner while I was mid-log. Give me the porcelain, some kittensoft and a good magazine anyday.

Tomorrow I’d 200 more miles of the Altay to look forward to, and the small matter of crossing the border into Mongolia

Over and out
Oisin
 
Oisin

Good to hear from you. As per email exchange - zip me the list of questions and I'll sort them as quick as I can.

Broadband should be fixed here by lunchtime Tuesday.

Simon
 
:roll Yay! Oisin's on the move again! :roll

Keep the news coming, and ride safe!

All the best from Sunny (yes, really) Westmeath...

Patrick.

PS what was that pouring the beer in the pic above? That Pete Burns gets around doesn't he/she/it?
 
Oisin,

great to get these reports. :clap
some of us here aint getting away at all this year and this is the nearest we're getting to an Adventure - sharing yours :D
Thank you.
~~
With you in spirit :beerjug:
The Ogs
 
Altay Region Russia to the Mongolian Border

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I froze my balls off all night despite being layered up like an onion, and long after sunrise the tent was still covered with frost. Anything that had water in it that I had in the tent turned to ice, I’ve no idea how low it went but it was brass monkeys! The view out of the tent though made it all worthwhile, kind of! The seal skin socks come in very handy when you head out for the early morning constitutional.

I packed up the bike and continued my journey south. This part of the world is breathtaking, hopefully the pictures go some way to showing that. It was an amazing day out. All of the people who live in this part of the world appear to live in serious poverty. The houses close to the rivers all plough and maintain the land by hand and tend cattle all day. Almost all of the houses are without electricity, running water, and any of the modern conveniences that we take for granted.

If there was a place like this in the western world the price people would pay to live here would be astronomical, no one seems to want to live here though for some reason. One thing I was made aware of was that as this area is in such close proximity to the border with China, Mongolia, and Kazakhstan it was very closely controlled by the FSB (new KGB) so maybe that had something to do with it. I'd say I passed no more than 6 cars all day.

The closer I got to the border all the faces turned to what I’d expect to find in Mongolia and I made sure I filled up in the last petrol station in Russia, not having a clue what lay ahead of me once I got to the other side of the border.

I stopped off for grub and a drink, didn't know how long I'd be at the border so best not to do it with an empty tank, to say the rations were meager would be an understatement.... real gulag fare.

I was shitting myself about crossing into Mongolia and did the whole round of questions in my head... So why exactly are you going to Mongolia...? Are you only going because they went on the long way round? What makes you think your fat hole is going to be able to push a bike through a river anyway? Theres lots of snow about fatboy, you gonna pitch the tent in the snow? Hows your Mongolian coming along? over the 2 words yet? usual torment yourself to death on the road stuff.
It all amounted to me going through the last bit of Russia at a snails pace but coming up for late afternoon I finally saw the border in the distance. (Note no border shots in any of these areas, the FSB boys don't mess around)

I pulled up to the Russian border guard and it was fairly efficient. As I said earlier there is no one on this road so there wasn’t much of a queue. They checked my visa and scrutinized my hotel registrations to check where I visited and then stamped me out. I drove on for another mile or two and came to a soldier post which I assumed was part of the Mongolian entry system. The surrounding area was covered in snow and behind a barbwire gate was a road in atrocious condition full of snow, mud, water and potholes. “What the fuck is that!” I said to the guard! To which he replied “That’s Mongolia!”

Have a look at the last picture above again.....

I just said out to him.... "You must be fucking joking!!!!!!"

Mongolia tomorrow
Over and out
Oisin
 
Oisin

List of parts and diagrams emailed to your gmail account - please check and revert when you can - together with some suggestions on cheaper options and possible "local fixes"...

Hope it helps. Out tonight but around all day tomorrow if you need more...

Simon
 
No Mans Land Russia-Mongolia Border

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This was the last Russian post, to make sure you left the country and was the boundary for no mans land between Russia and Mongolia.

Some stuff about Mongolia that’s very much worth knowing before I begin the tale.


1)It’s the 19th largest and most sparsely populated country in the world at just 2.9 million people. So what does that mean exactly? Well to personalize it a bit for you. If the USA had a population density the same as Mongolia it would have a population of just 40 million people roughly half the current population of California. If it was the UK it would be just 400,000 the same amount of people that currently live in the city of Leeds. If it was Ireland the population would be just 42,000, less than currently live in the city of Limerick.

2)More than 20% of its population live on less than one Euro per day

3)30% of its population are nomadic living in GERS/YURT’s

4)38% of its population live in its capital, Ulaanbaatar

5)When Genghis Khan and lads were around back in the 12th century, they ruled the largest contiguous land empire in history stretching from Poland to Korea, and from Siberia to the Gulf of Oman in the Middle East.

One of the main things I was interested to find out was how did a country which was so dominant way back in the 13th century become so poor and inaccessible. I wanted to meet the typical Mongolia and see whether or not the genes of those great Mongol warriors still lives on in today’s Mongolians.

In Ireland we use the phrase “Outer Mongolia” to refer to being in the middle of nowhere, for example if a lad was to arrive home late for his dinner his wife might say to him “Where the fuck were you? Outer Mongolia?” I’m going to get a great thrill if I survive this when I meet someone back home in Ireland and they say to me “Jaysus Ois, haven’t seen you in Ages? You must’ve been in outer Mongolia!” to which I’ll reply with a smirk “mmmm hmmmm”

Back to the tale

I passed through the gate and made my way slowly through the muck and gunge. I got 800 meters past the gate when I was completely bogged down in snow right up to the bike panniers. This happened again and again and each time I’d to strip the bike to get it out, reload it and start again. One time in particular I was stuck so bad a passing truck driver had to give me a hand to push the bike out. I was starting to panic. Was all of Mongolia going to be like this? Why the fuck hasn’t this now melted? And was reciting that most famous of sayings to myself “Dude, you are sooooo fucked!”

How could it be that everything up to this point was asphalt and no sooner did I pass that gate and my whole world turned to shit. After 2 hours and barely 2km done I looked back up the road and had thoughts about just heading back up to Russia. The sort of things that were going through my head were along the lines of:

“Who cares if you don’t go through Mongolia?”
“It’s not like anyone back home knows this place from a cabbage anyway”
“You’re the only person making yourself do this, so why do it, just go back up to Russia where there are roads, dodgy soup and fine looking women and ride around to Ulan Ude”

I tend to go negative first and then once I’ve called myself every name under the sun I come back and push myself that bit harder. It’s not like there’s any cheerleaders in these parts to chant “Oisin’s the king, Oisin’s the king” so either you find it within or you quit and turn back.

After six of the toughest kilometers I’ve ever had to ride taking 3 hours I arrived at the Mongolian border and was greeted with the following words from the female border soldier “Welcome to Mongolia, Where are you from? Are you married? I am not married”

It’s a great thing to hear the words “Welcome to”, I’ve crossed a lot of borders in my time and the only other country I can remember hearing it in was Argentina. At every stage in the processing at the border the person welcomed me to Mongolia and couldn’t have been more helpful, it’s like they know you just rode through a 6km quagmire and are trying to make up for it.

I picked up some insurance on the Mongolian side and had a conversation with a guy who spoke English about the way to Ogliv, the town I planned to get to tomorrow. He said 28km west, then 100km south. That was a real eye opener for me, from now on it was all direction and distance, signposts were a thing I’d have to do without. I said goodbye to the Insurance vendor and his son and drove off into what was for me at least, the complete and utter unknown.

Over and out
Oisin

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LOL! Think that's bad? You've not driven the N52 recently then... :rob

Can't be doing that bad if you've found internet anyway... :)
 
Bloody hell!!

:bow:bow:bow

Oisin, bloody hell mate, kudos to you. That "road" looks like a night mare!
 
LOL! Think that's bad? You've not driven the N52 recently then... :rob

Can't be doing that bad if you've found internet anyway... :)

too right - :mad: i was on that N52 on Sunday last - took me ages to find a fuel stop that had Magnum ice cream as well... :augie

:hide
 
Hello Mongolia, and my first camp.

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I wasn’t long in Mongolia before I realized I was somewhere special. Everyone I passed on the bike was waving and when I pulled over to get some gas loads of people came over to shake my hand.

If I stopped on the road to take a picture and a car passed they would all get out to make sure I was ok, shake my hand and then all pile back into the car and head on their way again.

Everyone was smiling and I’ve yet to encounter a welcome like it.

Nothing can prepare you for the roads here. The truth is there aren’t roads; they are just tracks or trails. The ground in this north west region is hard, a mixture of gravel and sand and my guess is they just marked on the map ways which people have travelled over the years.

As you drive along you can see three or four trails all bending off in different directions which some miles down the road converge on each other again. All it takes is one Artic lorry to say, "hmmm I fancy taking a slightly different direction" and there you have it, you have a new trail.

There are absolutely no signposts, at least I didn’t see a single one on the first day. Directions are done using the compass. Drive 28km north, then 100km south and you’ll arrive at the town of XYZ. It brings reading the map to completely new dimentions.

Your constantly cross referencing the distance you’ve travelled with the direction your driving with any and all landmarks on the map. “Ok so I’m driving south east, good. I’ve done 24km so I should be coming to lake on my right and a big mountain on my left, good.” And so it goes for every mile. The first thing I noticed was how tiring it was. Between concentrating on the roads and not coming off, looking at the map, looking at your distance traveled, looking at your heading on the GPS and trying to enjoy the countryside you’re flat out.


The early going was cold and all the mountains around me had snow on them, with all the rivers full of ice and snow too. My goal was to start heading south for the town of Ogliv but once I knew I was on the right road, pull over and camp for the night.

I found my way with some difficulty on account of all the different tracks but once I knew I was heading south and there was a decent sized track which looked like it was well travelled I would be ok.

I looked for a reasonably sheltered spot and pulled in a half mile or so off the road and set up the camp. I made myself some pasta and a cup of tea despite a howling wind. I felt silly for feeling so nervous the day before. I looked around me as I was chowing down and for nearly an hour not a single car or truck passed. Even though I was a long way off the road you can see the dust clouds any traffic makes from miles off on these vast planes.

Once the sun dropped behind the mountains the cold became unbearable, the wind sweeps down from the mountains and is chilled by the snow on their peaks. I slept the night away despite the bitter cold. The wind meant there wasn’t any frost and just before dawn I got up for a number one; it was like stepping out onto a vast Martian plane or a painting of one. It felt so strange to just whip out the langer and do a piddle when your looking at such an incredible vista.

I’ve never felt so alone and isolated in my entire life. It felt like there wasn’t another person on the planet, just me, Sam Gamgee, and the wind.

Over and out
Oisin

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Mongolian Roads the good ones....

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