What goes around comes around... Dublin to New york

What's the story with the GB sticker on the car..?

Great story btw!!! :thumb2 :beerjug:
 

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Loving this, you're the man Oisin :thumb2 Never mind your troubles, they're what make this an adventure and a few pains in the butt now will make great memories for years from now, but sure you know all this. Lets just say I'm jealous as hell, keep on biking ! :beerjug:
 
Part 2 of 72hr ride to Ulaanbaatar

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As we continued on our way a couple of things were quickly becoming apparent. Firstly Bantu was quickly setting a world record for sleeping. My original thoughts were that he was the relief driver, but nope he was there to sleep, eat, piss, fart and shite, and that was it. You might wonder well what was I doing, the exact same bar the sleeping; but at least I'd the dubious distinction of paying 600 bucks for the privilege.

The other thing that I was quickly beginning to appreciate was that Jengis was the toughest bloke I'd ever come across. In our first 24hours on the road he'd taken 2 1hr power naps and was repairing the truck every hour in darkness and light. At one stage he burnt his hand severely off the engine giving himself a mobile phone sized burn with a blister sitting about a quarter inch of his hand, it looked like it hurt like a mother. The only thing he did was take off a sock cut a hole it for his thumb and continued on. Can you imagine how much pain he must have been in? To drive a truck over those roads and repair the truck every hour? He was a machine.

We made out way through the town of Altay, which had reached iconic status in my mind, i'd been trying to get there for days. When we got there and I saw that its one of the poorest decrepit towns in the northern hemisphere it felt weird, for days I'd been saying "If only I could get to Altay everything would be fine!"

We pushed on slowly, at one stage we passed some folks who'd a puncture. We pulled over to help them, but not only that so also did the next three trucks that passed. When the repair was done on the van, there was a conversation around, hey you don't have a bolt for my front light do you? the guy spilled out a load of brackets and bolts and there they were doing a repair to our truck. All of sudden there was seven or eight people all standing out in the middle of nowhere having a chat and a laugh.

No one can afford to buy anything new here so everything is run it to absolute failure. Every tube that comes out is patched many many times and they use bits of other torn up tubes to shroud the tube at its weak points. The tires are used till they completely shred, simple as that.

We found our way to a river after dark which we crossed and pulled up outside a Ger. Jengis said we need some sleep. It was midnight so said we'd start again at 5am. So what did we do?
We all headed into a Ger which was full of people and went to sleep. I never saw anything like it. Imagine that, some strangers come up, knock on the door, they go to sleep with you and your family in your Ger, and then you make them breakfast in the morning and for the honor you pay about 4-5 dollars. There were at least 9 people sleeping in there that night, in a space about the size of my bedroom back home.

Thats what people have to do to survive here, but I've no idea how Jengis knew that this was a Ger which its ok to knock on, there was no sign or anything like that.

I made a little faux pas which was... they tell you which cot to get into, note there's already someone in there, in this case a teenage kid who could speak broken English and was full of questions.

I said maybe we'll sleep head to toe if you know what I mean? No sooner had I changed direction than the whole Ger was up in a sudden start... key tip...never never never point your head towards the door in a Ger, has to be pointing in the direction of the main mans cot.

The next day soon after starting we stopped in a small village looking for some welding kit which we found, and Jengis worked for about 5 hours welding the truck chassis. In the fenced off area there were 4 Ger's some scrap metal, 2 wooden outhouses and 2 huge piles of Yak poo.

There were kids running around playing and having a great time, but looking at them and what little they had, you could feel your heart breaking. One of the ladies brought me in for some grub, they don't get to many beardy irish lads around these parts so I was a bit of novelty. It was a bowl of soup, a pasta type thing and some meat/bones type stuff.

Not long after we were back on the road, we passed an overturned truck. Again, stop....check is everyone ok, do they need help, and only at the point where your certain all is well do they move on again. The key thing is that its not just stop some times, or when your not in a rush, its stop every single time no matter what!

These people know that it such a barren and empty land running such dated and antiquated machinery it could be them broken down next..... always stop and help.


Over and out
Oisin
 
Oisin said:
I made a little faux pas which was... they tell you which cot to get into, note there's already someone in there, in this case a teenage kid who could speak broken English and was full of questions.

I said maybe we'll sleep head to toe if you know what I mean? No sooner had I changed direction than the whole Ger was up in a sudden start... key tip...never never never point your head towards the door in a Ger, has to be pointing in the direction of the main mans cot.

Oisin
Click to expand...

I think your faux pas could be to do with either pointing your back at the altar or sticking your feet in someone's face mate !!

In the modern Mongolian city of Ulaanbaatar, one doesn't need special knowledge of traditional etiquette, but in the countryside it's essential for a welcome reception and the best possible experience. Of course, no one will insist on faultless observance, but taking the time to familiarize oneself with Mongolian etiquette can go a long way in relating better to one's hosts and preserving ancient customs. Hard conditions of life in the Mongolian countryside throughout history gave rise to traditions of friendliness and hospitality. Mongolian hosts are well aware that the traveller entering their home is probably tired and may still have quite the journey ahead, and since they have undoubtedly found themselves in similar situations more than once before, they do their best to make their visitor comfortable.


Greetings
As in most other places in the world, a greeting equivalent to "How are you?" ("Sain bainuu") is most common. The Mongolian difference is that a negative answer is considered to be impolite; one is expected to answer "Sain", meaning "Fine", and only later in the conversation may one's problems be mentioned. Mongolians try to avoid unpleasant conversational topics in general, though if unavoidable, it's important to address them as tactfully as possible.

In the countryside, greetings often concern country life and suit the season: "Are you wintering well?", "Are you spending this spring in peace?", "Are your sheep grazing in peace?", "Are your sheep fattening well?", etc. The word "peace" comes up often since in Mongolia the concept is equivalent to happiness.

One must also remember to use the correct form of address depending on the person's age or position. For example, appending the respectful "-guay" suffix to the name of an elderly person.


Good wishes
In villages, it's common to wish someone well upon finding them at work or play. For example, if they're milking a cow, one would say: "May your bucket be brim full of milk". If they're beating wool, one would say: "May your wool be as soft as silk". If they're playing a game with others, it's common to wish that everyone win, if only once, to which they respond: "May it be as you say".


Dropping in
It is not acceptable to knock at the door of a ger and to ask if you may enter; one is expected to holler "Hold the dog!" ("Nokhoi Khori!") and then approach, even if there is no dog, to let the hosts know they have a guest. The host and hostess will then emerge wearing their hats (which are not removed in greeting as elsewhere) and buttoned-up dels, ready to help the guest dismount if on horseback.


Tea time
Before tea is served, snuff bottles are exchanged between the men. It is proper to accept the snuff bottle, even if you don't have one to give in return, and to take some snuff before handing the bottle back. The hostess will then begin to serve tea. It is impolite to ask the guest outright where he comes from and where he's going, so it's expected that the guest himself will volunteer this information at some point in the conversation, after the traditional greetings and questions about the weather. Tea is served in a small bowl and is offered either with both hands stretched towards the guest or with the right hand supporting the left elbow. The guest is expected to accept the tea in the same manner, but with sleeves rolled down since it's considered extremely impolite to expose one's wrists while receiving things. In the summer, fermented mare's milk (koumiss) is served instead of tea.


Dos and Don'ts
A list of countryside cultural tips from the Mongolian Tourism Board:

DON'T
let a post or fence come between you if you are walking with Mongolians
whistle inside a ger or house belonging to a Mongolian
let your feet point in the direction of the altar (which will be on the north side) when sitting in a ger
let people walk over your outstretched legs
tread on the threshold of the ger when you walk over it
lean against a support column, a piece of furniture, or a wall of the ger (they represent stability and a link with heaven)
stamp out a fire or put water or any rubbish on it; fire is sacred
walk in front of an older person
turn your back to the altar and religious objects at the back of the ger
touch other people's hats (my favourite)
have long conversations in your own language in front of hosts who don't understand it
point a knife in the direction of anyone, or touch the hearth with it (the hearth symbolizes ties with ancestors)
pass anything to a Mongolian with just two fingers
take food from a plate with your left hand
spill milk inside a ger
wave your sleeve, as it is a mark of protest, or extend the little finger of your right hand, as this is a sign of disrespect

DO
keep your hat on when entering a ger if you are wearing one, but lift it as a sign of greeting
receive things with your right hand or both hands and ensure that your sleeves are rolled down
ensure you remove your gloves when shaking hands if you are wearing them
walk around inside the ger in a clockwise direction
receive food, a gift, or anything similar from a Mongolian with both hands or with your right hand, supported at the wrist or elbow
take at least a sip or nibble of the delicacies offered
pick up things with an open hand, palm facing upwards
grab the hand of a Mongolian if you have accidentally kicked their feet
sit cross-legged with your feet underneath you
leave a small gift, other than money, for your hosts
 
Part 3...getting to Tarmac....

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Well the trip up to Ulaanbaatar continued to get stranger and stranger. First off we dropped of Sleeping beauty (Bantu) off at one of the towns so it was just me and Jengis, I was delighted with the extra room, and hey...it had only been 50 hours....Jengis reckoned we'd one more full day to go....as in driving 24 hours...which was by the way the best case delivery time originally. But having drove the road, I now know its impossible for the truck drivers to predict the conditions.

Anyway with my new found freedom i was sitting with the legs spread wider than the village bicycle, even though I still couldn't open the window, no A/C, no radio, no heating, compared to having to share the space with Bantu, I was in heaven. Although I was aghast when Jengis picked up a hitch hiker.....i thought to myself..."If this fucker is going the whole way to Ulaanbaatar i'll fucking kill myself!", luckily he was only hitching to the next town.

On our last full night out in the boonies Jengis said he needed to get some sleep, 2 hours. Which would run us up to a lofty total of 7 for the whole trip so at 2am we pulled up to a Ger in the middle of now where. He banged down the door till this woman answered the door, then told me to go inside where I was faced with the humblest Ger I'd yet been in. The woman dressed in a robe and severely pissed off after being woken pointed to a cot where a cat was sleeping. Now a cat in the western world is known for its cleanliness, I don't like em that much,....but have to admit they are pretty clean. Its Mongolian equivalent.....well...is a muck bird.

Anyway..the woman hit the cat a belt and woke it out of its sleep and turned off the light. I wasn't even in my sleeping bag, so being careful not to point the feet towards the main mans bed lest I have my throat slit during the night I stripped and got into the bag. Next thing I'm looking at a pair of green cat eyes...and the cat is Meowwing like someone is trying to pull off its tail. Its 3am at this stage, Jengis is leaving at 4:30...and i'm thinking to myself is this oul one going to get up and kick that cat in the nuts or what?

She eventually came over in the pitch dark and belted it...it squealed like fuck...next thing all the kids in the Ger are roaring crying.... I parked in the ear plugs and settled off to sleep. The Ger was freezing, the people living there were the poorest of the poor so when it came to leaving at 4:30 i woke the woman up by tipping her on the shoulder....desperately hoping she didn't think I was looking for a shag and gave her about $ 30 dollars....she looked at the money and thought she was still dreaming and went back to sleep.

I went out and woke up Jengis who was busy peeling off the sock he'd wrapped around his severely burnt and blistered hand. At this stage I wasn't surprised when he kicked off a boot, took out a knife, cut a hole in the sock and put it on his hand..... man i was looking at this guy thinking.... this guy must piss napalm.

400km from Ulaanbaatar we hit the Tarmac, I felt like jumping out of the truck and doing a jig but things got a bit worse... in the course of the next 5 hours we had no fewer than 3 punctures. I couldn't believe it...after all those crappy roads...the tarmac is tearing the tires to shit.

I did my best to help but like I say in the video... i mostly got in the way.... this other Mongolian chap stopped to give us a dig out and when we were done he came over with water and started washing our hands...and then came into the truck with a bag of sheep bits. So we sat their chatting away eating sheep. Every now and the Jengis would tear off a bit which looked like the sheeps foreskin and say...mmmmmm....very good...offering it to me.... to which I'd reply in my most appreciative tone... Me Bollix!

We were 5 hours from Ulaanbaaatar.... but this was where the big problems would begin

How would I get the bike off the truck?
If I was shaken about so much the bike must be totaled in the back?
Where will I stay?
How the hell am I going to get parts for the bike? Where will I leave the bike....

Tushing had arranged for his brother to meet me to help me out... would he show?

Over and out
Oisin
 
unbelieveable

Oisin, seriously, are you making this stuff up??? It's beyond the wildest imaginings, so I suspect not. How are you managing to do daily updates? Has Jengis' truck wifi? :rolleyes

Just brilliant. I think I might bring a spare rear shock next month!
 
Get this man a book deal, a TV deal, christ he deserves a bloody knighthood. Surely he's got to get some kind of Hero-Tosser status.

OK, we all know about the other 2 that went around the world, and wether you agree with there 'fully supported' method or not, no doubted they inspired a lot of us to go out and see some of the world on our motorcycles, myself included. However, to do what you are, and to achieve what have, is outstanding to say the very least.
The fact that you are finding ways to upload your reports, taking time from you travels to record and edit video and photo's makes your trip SO much more impressive.

Ride safe, stay safe, Good luck for the rest of your adventure.

MartinB
 
A little out of sequence...video of mental dust storm that hit today

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just rolled up in the afternoon! :-)
 
Great thread Oisin.:cool:

Just found this thread and read it in one go. Absolutely great trip so far.:clap

You’ll have to host a night out in Dublin when you get home and go back over the trip over a pint.:beer:

Keep the stories coming.:thumb2

:aidan

.
 
A wonderful, wonderful story:clap:clap:clap

It's around a year since I was in that remarkable country and everyday yearn to return...glad to see you're enjoying the Choco Pies...yum
:)
 
Always great to catch up with your thread. I've read them all so far... if you make it to Ontario in Canada (around Hamilton) or Nova Scotia give me a shout... I can sort you out a place to stay.
 
Finally, Ulaanbaatar....and getting a new shock absorber....

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We drove into the city the whole time Jengis was on the phone non-stop, getting directions etc. We pulled up in a yard belonging to a cashmere sweater producer where our load was getting delivered.

I was met there by Saraul, Tushigs brother. Tushig had arranged that he pick me up and bring me to a hotel with all my stuff and then in the morning bring me back down to the yard....Tushig if you ever get a chance to read this.... you rule all, and I hope one day I can repay your kindness.

When they opened the container the next morning I finally was able to understand why Jengis wouldn't let in the back, it was packed to the roof with bags of this stuff. Never was a BMW ever transported in such a comfortable ride.

They guys threw down 30 or 40 bags of cashmere and rolled the bike out onto them and down out into the yard.

I had a quick look around it, it looked rough, but no worse that when it was packed up and to my surprise it started first time. I limped it to the car park in the hotel and set about trying to figure out where I was going to take it to get it fixed and also ordering the parts.

I talked with Vait in Steppenfuchs about what was the best way to get a rear shock to Ulaanbaatar. He told me that if you use DHL it will take ten days, the quickest way is to get someone who is flying from Berlin to bring the part through for you. The flights leave from Berlin on a Sunday. Today was Friday, If I was going to get a part here by Sunday it would be a huge longshot.

I needed someone in Berlin, my mate lived there but was out of town, only knew one other guy there who I'd never met, Joe Dilworth (Berlin Joe), I phoned him, told him my problem. What I needed was a part, and someone to go to the airport in Berlin and if i couldn't find someone who was flying out to Mongolia via other channels, convince some random Mongolian chap to take it with him....ooooo Long shot~ We thought we'd have no problem getting the part seeing as there are at least five Motorrad dealers in Berlin and its a spares depot as well.


The part:
What I needed was a rear shock for a 2006 BMW GSA....would you believe when we(the we bit will become apparent) contacted BMW in Berlin, this part is not available. Normally they can get you a part in 24 hours....but no this one is not available.....not we'll get it for you in 24 hours old son!...its just not available. Even Vait with his contacts in Berlin couldn't sort anything.
The crunch item here was that Berlin Joe was flying to China on Sunday, my other buddy in Berlin wouldn't be back till June 12th so this was a one shot deal, I had to get a shock on friday/saturday or wait ten days in Ulaanbaater.


I talked with Simon Race (Trip quarterback at this stage!) and Walter Colebatch about all sorts of alternatives, for so many different potential ways around the problem. As it turned out to get a shock ready takes quite a bit of time, this was a Friday, it was coming into a weekend....there was little chance of getting it done. Walter gave me Baz's name in Hyperpro in Holland who said that he would work that night and get me a shock ready by 12midday Saturday..... oh you beauty!!!!!

So now I needed a way to get it to Berlin, DHL country to country on same day deliveries is a no no on a Saturday. I wracked my brains for someone I knew in Holland who might be able to help, maybe I could put the part in a Taxi, maybe someone knew someone who knew someone... there is always a way!

I noticed a fellow motorcyclist Axel Bahr from Germany was online on facebook so I gave him a shout and asked did he have any ideas.

I had Bar Dunne in Ireland trying to see if he could find a way to organize the shipment from over there, none of the numbers I had for DHL Holland were working.

After a couple of hours he'd arranged for his mate Manuel to pick up the part in Werkendam Holland, and bring it to Cologne where DHL would same day it from there to Berlin and put it in the capable hands of Berlin Joe. As it turned out Axel also broke down in the same part of Mongolia a whilke back on the same bike with the exact same problem!!!!....can you believe the coincidences here?...not to mention the fact that two guys who I've never met before were going miles out of their way on a Friday evening to bale me out....and I've no idea how many dudes were involved in Hyperpro.

So now I'd the part, and a way of getting it to Berlin. The thoughts of going up to a random guy in an airport with a mysterious package sounded like something that could get us jailed so I phoned the wonderfully fantastic Kate (Kushki Malushki)in Ireland who had just finished up working in Dublin airport as the marketing development manager for the far east.

She phoned her contacts in Berlin and within a couple of hours, we had cultivated Mogolian Joe, a guy who would take the part from Berlin Joe in Berlin and give it to Ayuntoya who would carry it through and give it to me in Ulaanbaatar. When the guy came back with the name Joe, and the fact that I was working with Joe in Berlin already I just knew that it was going to work

The whole thing kept me up till 5am getting it sorted but the part arrived at 6:40am on the Monday morning Ulaanbaater per the plan.....

Some pictures below of the folks who helped me out big time, if I didn't have a picture I used my imagination about what you looked like! :-)...Small picture is Vait in Steppenfuchs who gave me the ideas in the first place.

So, there you go.... the Mongolians are an incredibly generous and kind people...and they've got plenty of company in the folks below..... to you all....thank you!!...


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Nice?

Oisin said:
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One to add to the list of the worlds great "beer" photos...

alexbeer.jpg

John Mills contemplating another in Ice Cold In Alex
 
This is turning into a documentary deal me thinks. More deals done there than on deal or no deal.:beerjug:
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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