ThreeDawg
Registered user
And, I have a small leak of trans oil by the looks of things. Be nice if this was it.
What's all this in my clutch? And is it worn out?
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ThreeDawg
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And another thing: doesn't the felt seal locate about half way along the pushrod? Mine does not have a recess for the seal to sit in. Was it a later addition?
You have a cable operated clutch not a hydraulic one…………….
I’m sure you are capable of working out for yourself why you don’t need a felt seal on the push rod, and why there isn’t one fitted.
Yes 1150s have them "ALTHOUGH" I have seen them without a felt washer albeit very early ones
Ian Not like you to be so snappy Play nice there is a good lad
ThreeDawg
Registered user
Yeah, forget the felt ring - must have been mentioned elsewhere, or maybe when I was looking at parts I might need.
Anyway, to the more important question - can that pesky wee seal be got out without opening the trans?
Anyway, to the more important question - can that pesky wee seal be got out without opening the trans?
Ian Not like you to be so snappy Play nice there is a good lad
Sorry! Didn’t mean to come across as snappy. The OP seams capable enough to do his own maintenance. I figured he could have thought it through.
Yep! Most if not all shaft seals are designed to be replaced without dismantling. They are fitted from the outside. The trouble is getting the old one out. You will need to destroy it to get it out. Sometimes stubborn seals can be got out by screwing in a self tapping screw and pulling. Be careful, you don’t won’t to damage either the seal seat or score the shaft. Either will prevent a good seal. The new seal can be tapped home. You will need a length of tubing or pipe to clear your input shaft splines. Make sure when tap home the replacement seal, that you apply force evenly and only to the outer hard part of the new seal.
ThreeDawg
Registered user
Yeah, looks like it might be a self tapper and pliers job but I do have a couple of seal pullers to try first. Clutch off tomorrow (and into the bin) so I can check the engine seal, but certainly most of the fresh oil in the housing looks like Motorex gear oil to me.
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The rear input shaft seal on an 1100 fits from the inside of the casing.
To replace requires a complete strip.
ThreeDawg
Registered user
Oh joy... Think I'll take the box to my local dealer to do - should be fairly quick job with the correct tools. I'd be gutted nick the seal and have it leak again doing it myself.
Hold your Horses………..Things might be getting a bit confusing.
As far as I can tell from your description and pictures, The seal that is leaking on your transmission is the Front input shaft seal. Which is replaced from the outside, conventionally.
Mikeyboy is talking about the Rear input shaft seal. Which is at the back of the gearbox where your clutch pushrod exits at the back of the input shaft and engages with the piston. If yours isn’t leaking there, then you don’t have a problem.
As far as I can tell from your description and pictures, The seal that is leaking on your transmission is the Front input shaft seal. Which is replaced from the outside, conventionally.
Mikeyboy is talking about the Rear input shaft seal. Which is at the back of the gearbox where your clutch pushrod exits at the back of the input shaft and engages with the piston. If yours isn’t leaking there, then you don’t have a problem.
ThreeDawg
Registered user
Righto, sitrep:
Clutch plate is at 4.7, so needs replacing anyway. All this effort is not for nothing.
The seal that appears to be leaking, as evidenced by very smelly yellow oil is on the front of the transmission where it joins the engine. It's lying on its side in this pic.
Bit gungy round the crankshaft oil seal, but not dripping.
Nothing on the back of the flywheel, apart from around one bolt hole - oddly contains some oil - the one at 11 o'clock in the pic above.
Clutch plate is at 4.7, so needs replacing anyway. All this effort is not for nothing.
The seal that appears to be leaking, as evidenced by very smelly yellow oil is on the front of the transmission where it joins the engine. It's lying on its side in this pic.
Bit gungy round the crankshaft oil seal, but not dripping.
Nothing on the back of the flywheel, apart from around one bolt hole - oddly contains some oil - the one at 11 o'clock in the pic above.
I think I'd be doing those crank seals to be honest!!
No point in cutting things shy now to save a few quid that could mean re doing all this work to get there again !!
BE aware the torque on the Clutch bolts is very low Some books have them too high
Its something like 8nm BUT please double check It has been a while since I did one
No point in cutting things shy now to save a few quid that could mean re doing all this work to get there again !!
BE aware the torque on the Clutch bolts is very low Some books have them too high
Its something like 8nm BUT please double check It has been a while since I did one
ThreeDawg
Registered user
Yeah, suppose you're right. I seem to remember that the pre 12/1997 bikes only have one crank seal - or have I mis-remembered?
Stick your frame number (Last 7 digits) into this www.realoem.com
where it says Serial Number
Then browse parts
Then Group 11 Engine
Then Group 11-21 crankshaft with bearing
And If you have 6 and 7 showing you have 2 seals and if you have only 6 visible you have one outer seal
where it says Serial Number
Then browse parts
Then Group 11 Engine
Then Group 11-21 crankshaft with bearing
And If you have 6 and 7 showing you have 2 seals and if you have only 6 visible you have one outer seal
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Sorry if I caused confusion,
I was replying to Ian’s comment on the seal fitment rather than the thread in general.
ThreeDawg
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Checked it - only one seal. 
Well that's something!
Small seal still looks like a cow to do - at least getting it out. Never mind, it's a learning process innit.
BTW, Honda M77 for the splines?
Well that's something!Small seal still looks like a cow to do - at least getting it out. Never mind, it's a learning process innit.
BTW, Honda M77 for the splines?
ThreeDawg
Registered user
Both seals out, just waiting for a load of parts. Seems like the front seal's teflon lip needs to be formed, if this is the case then I found a perfect flower pot to do it with.
Both seals out, just waiting for a load of parts. Seems like the front seal's teflon lip needs to be formed, if this is the case then I found a perfect flower pot to do it with.
NO OIL when fitting!!
Dry fit
ThreeDawg
Registered user
Yeah, I'd picked up on that - just a shiny pot and the old seal! Apparently you need to leave the seal in its packaging until the last minute and after fitting let it settle fir at least four hours. I don't think there is any danger of me starting it up within that timeframe...
