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Hmmm...not so sure, can you qualify that ?
What's the difference between??
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Hmmm...not so sure, can you qualify that ?
I’m fat, does that help ?
As stated by Paul S, alloy frames are quite "rigid" with little flex or give. That's great for power transfer to the rear wheel but can mean a harsher ride and a certain "resonance" to the frame. Not so bad though if you stick suspension on an aluminium frame as that then gives the comfort, which is why you see more alloy being used on MTBs these days.
Steel, on the other hand, if it's used correctly in the design and manufacturing, gives a very forgiving, plush ride. Some folk, me included, are massive fans of steel framed bikes due to the feel you get on the road.
Thanks Davey and yes they are quite diverse examples to illustrate a point.
As you can see below I have quite a "diverse collection" in the shed
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A steel frame can be designed to flex where required and wili absorb a certain amount of the unevenness of the road surface hence a more comfortable ride than an aluminium frame which can't flex and will beat you up. A flexible aluminium frame would crack.
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Pedantic head on here, you get faster rolling tyres and slower rolling tyres, your weight is relevant only to you, doesn't mean tyres are immaterial. I was astonished in the difference between one kind and another.
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Thanks Davey and yes they are quite diverse examples to illustrate a point.
As you can see below I have quite a "diverse collection" in the shed
That's impressive, your bike collection isn't bad either
That's impressive, your bike collection isn't bad either
Thank you
Nutty's not so impressed though as there's no e-bike in there yet!
You maybe astonished, but the aerodynamic shape of a fat bloke is more of a hindrance than the difference between two rubber compounds.
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I know the point you're making, I'm just, as I said, being pedantic.
I'm no lightweight either but when I noticed the difference, there was no way I was going back to slower tyres, slower tyres = more effort.
I would say that if you have a slightly bad back, then the hybrids more upright posture will be better for you. I sat on a drop bar bike again and it put a lot of weight onto my hands so I tensed my back a little more to pull the weight off, but my back didn't thank me for it.
In the past I had a reynolds steel framed Dawes road bike with 14 gears and calliper brakes. I had it customised to take cantilever brakes and a triple ring crank to give 21 gears among other things. I crashed that bike and woke in hospital with no memory of how it happened, suffice to say I arrived at the accident at speed, due to the high gearing, and both of us went end over end (could tell by the damages to me and it) and I think that was influenced by being in a head down, forward position allowing my forehead to smash into the tarmac fracturing my skull. I switched to mtbs after that, but I often found them heavy by comparison to the road bikes I'd grown up with. My most recent bikes have all been hybrids. I have had twin ring hybrids with high road gearing on skinny road bike wheels and tyres and they do 'feel' quicker, but a bit more of a slog up the hills.
Currently I'm using Evan's Pinnicle brand Lithium hybrids. A perfect blend for me as they have 3 chain rings and an 8 speed (maybe 9) rear block so I can go quick enough on the flats and downhill and slow enough on the uphill bits with the low mtb style bottom ring if I'm having a bad day. I've used cyclocross tyres in winter as the summer tyres were lethal in snow, but this last winter I switched to some Schwalbe Marathon GT365 4 season tyres as a compromise and I think they are working well for me.
In the past I had a reynolds steel framed Dawes road bike with 14 gears and calliper brakes. I had it customised to take cantilever brakes and a triple ring crank to give 21 gears among other things. I crashed that bike and woke in hospital with no memory of how it happened, suffice to say I arrived at the accident at speed, due to the high gearing, and both of us went end over end (could tell by the damages to me and it) and I think that was influenced by being in a head down, forward position allowing my forehead to smash into the tarmac fracturing my skull. I switched to mtbs after that, but I often found them heavy by comparison to the road bikes I'd grown up with. My most recent bikes have all been hybrids. I have had twin ring hybrids with high road gearing on skinny road bike wheels and tyres and they do 'feel' quicker, but a bit more of a slog up the hills.
Currently I'm using Evan's Pinnicle brand Lithium hybrids. A perfect blend for me as they have 3 chain rings and an 8 speed (maybe 9) rear block so I can go quick enough on the flats and downhill and slow enough on the uphill bits with the low mtb style bottom ring if I'm having a bad day. I've used cyclocross tyres in winter as the summer tyres were lethal in snow, but this last winter I switched to some Schwalbe Marathon GT365 4 season tyres as a compromise and I think they are working well for me.
Thanks for that excellent explanation
Thank you
Nutty's not so impressed though as there's no e-bike in there yet!
I’m more concerned about the astroturf!
I’ve switched between steel (cromoly) and aluminium frames in the past on MTBs so agree with the previous comments.
I'm curious to know how carbon compares to these two in terms of absorbing vibrations. I know it’s lighter but I assume it must also be stiff like aluminium?
I'm curious to know how carbon compares to these two in terms of absorbing vibrations. I know it’s lighter but I assume it must also be stiff like aluminium?
Carbon is very susceptible to how well it is built into a frame....so the chances are, a £300 ebay bargain from Hung-lo in china will be very a mediocre ride and may be very stiff of as flexible as spaghetti whereas a £4k Cannondale (I have a carbon full sus Trigger with a lefty fork...it is superb) or Trek etc will very likely have been designed and 'laid up' to be stiff in the right places, flex in others etc. You do generally get what you pay for (Although I do struggle with seeing £9k push bikes v a Z900 for the same cash....)
In answer to the original question - "What's the difference between a Road Bike and a decent Hybrid"
about 10mph
about 10mph
To say aluminium frames are stiffer and give a less comfortable ride than steel is a fair generalisation, but there are exceptions and there are things you can do to make a bike more comfortable. My aluminium Merida on 28mm tyres at 70psi is more comfortable than my Orbea Orca carbon on 25mm tyres at 80psi. However my old Orro Gold carbon was more comfortable than either and that was on 25mm tyres at 95psi. Go figure!!
I’m not a fat bloke but if I was I would still be looking for every small advantage I could find, and that would include fast-rolling tyres. BTW many road bikes and wheels have load limits of 100-120kg for bike and rider.
I’m not a fat bloke but if I was I would still be looking for every small advantage I could find, and that would include fast-rolling tyres. BTW many road bikes and wheels have load limits of 100-120kg for bike and rider.
Thanks Davey and yes they are quite diverse examples to illustrate a point.
As you can see below I have quite a "diverse collection" in the shed
So Toddmeister given your extensive collection what would be your choice for a ‘compromise’ bike for road use with some trail capability? I was wondering about a gravel bike to replace my old MTB but I’m open to ideas. Have you still got that CCM by the way?
CCM went last year Tony. I managed 2 years with the first one before stupidly "upgrading" it to the later more highly tuned SRS version, which was the one I took to Dent that year we rode together. Sadly the fueling was never quite right and I traded it in for a KTM 690R which I still have and love to bits.
With regards to your question, there are a lot of variables you could consider, for example: budget, how much road vs off-road, budget, luggage carrying capability, budget, anticipated daily distances, and finally BUDGET!
There is a huge amount to choose from out there and you don't have to spend a lot of money to get a decent bike. My wife toured Normandy with me 12 years ago on a Giant Hybrid which cost £200 and it's still going strong.
Having said all that, if you want my personal recommendation for a bike you will have and enjoy for the rest of your life, and can use for day trips and medium weight touring (with camping kit) then I would suggest looking at a Thorn with a Rolhoff hub and 26 inch wheels. The one on the far left in the picture of my collection is a Thorn Sterling, which is very capable off road but I don't think they make it anymore (you might get a frame only or a second hand one). The ultimate expedition bike is the Nomad (GS of cycling world), but that my be overkill for what you want, so I would seriously consider the Raven as it will do everything you want from commuting (yes I know you're retired
) to long distance cycle camping with off road thrown in.Hope that helps?
CCM went last year Tony. I managed 2 years with the first one before stupidly "upgrading" it to the later more highly tuned SRS version, which was the one I took to Dent that year we rode together. Sadly the fueling was never quite right and I traded it in for a KTM 690R which I still have and love to bits.
With regards to your question, there are a lot of variables you could consider, for example: budget, how much road vs off-road, budget, luggage carrying capability, budget, anticipated daily distances, and finally BUDGET!
There is a huge amount to choose from out there and you don't have to spend a lot of money to get a decent bike. My wife toured Normandy with me 12 years ago on a Giant Hybrid which cost £200 and it's still going strong.
Having said all that, if you want my personal recommendation for a bike you will have and enjoy for the rest of your life, and can use for day trips and medium weight touring (with camping kit) then I would suggest looking at a Thorn with a Rolhoff hub and 26 inch wheels. The one on the far left in the picture of my collection is a Thorn Sterling, which is very capable off road but I don't think they make it anymore (you might get a frame only or a second hand one). The ultimate expedition bike is the Nomad (GS of cycling world), but that my be overkill for what you want, so I would seriously consider the Raven as it will do everything you want from commuting (yes I know you're retired
Hope that helps?
Excellent. Much obliged sir. KTM eh? But they’re so orange
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