What's this for ???

[Brendan]

Not sure where to post this question so I'm trying here first.

The front brake distribution piece in the attached photo has a plug covering a spring loaded bearing.

Is this a filler point (to connect a filler line to)
A bleed point (bleeding by pushing something into it when it has a proper bleed nipple beside it makes no sense)

Any help appreciated before I go trying to get rid of a soft front brake lever.

 

[Brendan]

Bump Bump.

Any help out there. PLEASE

 

[Timolgra]

You don't normally need to bleed the brakes from here but if your having a problem er... getting it firm, bleed from there first then the calipers.

It is known that cable tying the front brake lever to the bar and leaving overnight can get that last bit of air out.

 

[Aidan1150]

It is known that cable tying the front brake lever to the bar and leaving overnight can get that last bit of air out.

That wee trick worked for me too.

 

[Pekkavee]

You can change there a proper bleed nipple

Pekka

 

[Beak Freak]

Its a bleed point, that seals with I think a small ball bearing. It was probably fitted by the main dealer as it is needed for their bleeding equipment.

I'm guessing that yours is an 1150 as I have no experience of working with a bleed fitting in that location. I would follow the advice of the previious post and bleed the brakes at the caliper.

You can replace it with a standard bleed nipple, but I would thouroughly recommend speedbleed nipples (ooh err missus!)

 

[nunesaf]

Not sure where to post this question so I'm trying here first.

The front brake distribution piece in the attached photo has a plug covering a spring loaded bearing.

Is this a filler point (to connect a filler line to)
A bleed point (bleeding by pushing something into it when it has a proper bleed nipple beside it makes no sense)

Any help appreciated before I go trying to get rid of a soft front brake lever.

Hi
That's a modification made by the previous owner. I would vote for option and probably the way to bleed that point is to remove the grub screw and put a BMW bleeding nipple in there.
HTH

 

[Brendan]

Hi
That's a modification made by the previous owner. I would vote for option and probably the way to bleed that point is to remove the grub screw and put a BMW bleeding nipple in there.
HTH

Bike owned from new. This valve's not a modification.
I've tried bleeding at the distribution joint as shown using the existing bleed nipple which is located on the same joint.
I've tried bleeding at the calipers.
I've tried using a Draper air suction bleeder on all the 3 bleed nipples.
Tried the overnight trick.

Nothing works.

What am I doing wrong.

If anyone could post a description of the complete process of bleeding front brake lines after piston seal replacement I'd very much appreciate it.
Thanks

 

[Stewart H]

Does your bike have the bleed points on the ABS units under the tank ?

Stewart

 

[Pekkavee]

Here are instructions for intergral Servo ABS brakes bleeding.
I think you have them.
http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/service_abs3.pdf

Pekka

 

[Brendan]

Here are instructions for intergral Servo ABS brakes bleeding.
I think you have them.
http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/service_abs3.pdf

Pekka

Sorry. No servo and no ABS. Which just makes this more infuriating.

 

[rudiemoto]

your bike is the change over model
where some bikes where ordered with out abs or servo
that vavle is a pre pressure vavle designed for the abs and servo bike
1150 r models ,i find have these

have you cleaned all the pistons
have you split the brake in 2
have you pumped then clamped at top hose near master

if you have done
1 st one thats ok

2nd one is bad as the brake halfs then will flex and need new brake calipers

3 should check for the seals in master clinder r ok

you need a rear brake bleed vavle off 999 and fit it to the vavle by taking rubber boot off

 

[Brendan]

have you cleaned all the pistons
have you split the brake in 2
have you pumped then clamped at top hose near master

if you have done
1 st one thats ok

2nd one is bad as the brake halfs then will flex and need new brake calipers

3 should check for the seals in master clinder r ok

you need a rear brake bleed vavle off 999 and fit it to the vavle by taking rubber boot off

Thanks for taking the time to offer your input.

To clarify;
I have split the front calipers, replaced the seals and reassembled.
I don't understand why the front caliper should now flex considering the caliper was put together from two halves in the first place. (can you explain)

The bleed valve I need is from a Ducati I presume.

Cheers

 

[Brendan]

Think it's sorted.

Here's what I did;

As Rudiemoto suggested clamped the lines starting at the master cylinder and worked my way down clamping after the distribution point and then at each caliper individually. This told me that the problem was at the calipers and not higher up the hydraulic circuit.

So

Leave the clamp on the right hand caliper hose. Attached a Draper air assisted bleeder to the left hand caliper bleed nipple, pressurised the hydraulic circuit,(Pump the brake lever and hold when hard) set the bleeder to run constant and opened the bleed valve on the left hand caliper. Did this several times.

Repeat the process clamping the left hand caliper hose and bleed the right hand caliper.

All seems fine now.

Air must have been trapped at the calipers but was unable to be released when both calipers were been pressurised together.

Anyway to all that made suggestions and offered advise (especially Rudiemoto) THANK YOU

 

[The smudger]

Thanks for taking the time to offer your input.

To clarify;
I have split the front calipers,
Cheers

 

[Brendan]

Please enlighten me. What's the problem with splitting the caliper ?
Oh ! to be clear. I mean I have disassembled the caliper by removing the 4 bolts