What's your idea of a perfect holiday?

This is a fabulous RR, thank you for taking the time to post.
What a great trip too, something I'd love to do. Maybe I should try joining the TRF again.
 
Thanks for a terrific RR Ela. Looks as though you had a wonderful time - muy envidioso.
 
This is a fabulous RR, thank you for taking the time to post.
What a great trip too, something I'd love to do. Maybe I should try joining the TRF again.

Thanks, Tim - you should definitely join the TRF again! ;)

But as within every organisation, TRF, ADV or UKGSer, every event depends on someone taking the initiative and actually making it happen. Go for it! :thumb2
 
Thanks for a terrific RR Ela. Looks as though you had a wonderful time - muy envidioso.

Thank you for your lovely comment, Chris. We haven't seen you for ages - do you want to come next time? :)
 
Thanks Dave - it was great fun indeed.

Drafting the next instalment as we speak...
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Day 2 - Climb every mountain...

You may not be surprised to hear that we chose Track 2 from Matt's log for Day 2 - and this time I even checked which way round it was actually ridden before we set off.

We did some nice sandy and later rocky stuff out of Chaves and then came to one of my favourite lanes of the week; a trail going on for miles and miles, sweeping through meadows and vernal woods, framed by ancient stone walls and dense gorse bushes; it had some ruts, puddles, mud, sharp bends - and all set in beautiful scenery and rolling hills.
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Everyone seemed to feel at home
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(Photo courtesy of Patrick)

Then we started to climb into the hills...
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The views were amazing - when we had time to lift our eyes off the trail, that is
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Mmm, that looks a bit gnarly - who goes first?
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Steve and Patrick were off in an instant while Ade took his time...
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Tranquilo - I am on holiday!
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Dr JM and Bill Mc
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(Photo courtesy of Berin)

On the plateau
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I think Possu is at his happiest when he can fiddle with bikes...
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(Photo courtesy of Prelive)

... whereas I am most content when I can take embarrassing photos of my mates
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(Photo courtesy of Berin)

... and capture the world around us - anyone got an idea what kind of insect this is?
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Coming off the mountains, Possu allowed us a quick fuel & coffee break in Barracão
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(Photo courtesy of Prelive)

Sir Falloffalot sampled an assortment of local delicacies
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Then we rode some more
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Terrain and riding style took their toll on the bikes...
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Some trails just followed the contour of the hill sides for miles on end
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As usual, Possu was flying along... :augie
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After lunch in Ribeira de Pena, we came to a very special landmark - and here I have to give you a bit of a background story. When we did the North Portugal loop over to the Atlantic coast last year, Timpo kept raving about that enormous hill that had been the nemesis of many a trail rider (especially mild-mannered archaeologists...), and that we would have to get up it as part of the route. Timpo described that particular slope so often and in such scary detail, that I was beginning to have nightmares about the climb.

Imagine my relief when, after a day spent retrieving Possu's lost possessions from the Portuguese Guarda Nacional in Viana do Castelo and just making it before dark to our agreed overnight stop in Venda Nova (a different story altogether), Timpo announced that the hill lay already behind us and Steve and I had, unfortunately, missed it. What a shame. I probably overdid my lamentation act a tad, because the following day Timpo led us all the way back just to ride THAT hill!
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I did it after long hesitation but it was absolutely terrifying. Fast forward to Spring 2015 and I have to admit that my overall orientation wasn't great; I didn't exactly know where we were in relation to last year's routes. At one point we were riding through Venda Nova - now that rang a bell, but I couldn't put my finger on it.

We turned off from the road onto a forest track that vaguely resembled the one where Timpolino had helpfully recommended that I should nip into the bushes, otherwise I would wet myself when I saw that hill...
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Then we came around a corner and stopped
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You may spot the similarities - I still didn't! Surely the track carried on to the left on level ground and that hill was just a challenge for the play children among us?
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(Photo courtesy of Berin)

Possu, Patrick and Rob were immediately willing to give it a go, Duncan followed and Ade went next
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We others were left to decide: maybe or no way! Alas, on closer inspection of my SatNav there couldn't be a doubt about it, the purple line continued up the mountain, crossing contour lines in a right angle and very short succession - this was our route!

Possu came back down again and reported that downhill was a lot harder than uphill but that the ascent was perfectly do-able - I should take a good run-up and try to get up into fourth gear.

Jane-marie mustered her courage first
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There were one or two good saves...
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Then it was my turn; I made it up into third before hitting the slope and was down to first gear when I reached the crest - trembling but relieved and happy.

VTwins4me and Dr JM were already awaiting the next candidate
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Charles
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Duncan and Ade were still debating the best line
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While Possu was already on his second run
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The hills are alive...
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After calming down a bit, we carried on to the - hopefully flattening out, we thought - hill top
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(Photo courtesy of VTwins4me)

But no, there were two more steep sections to come - and only when we reached the start of the second climb, did the penny finally drop: I had been here before! We were riding THAT HILL!

Stage 2 consisted of loose soil, two hairpin bends, a sharp rocky increase and no opportunities for a photo stop - you just have to take my word for it. And then came the last ascent which, again, looked very different from the previous year -

2014
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https://www.facebook.com/neil.t.thompson.7/videos/756825044351704/?pnref=story
(Video courtesy of Timpo)

2015
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Janey to the fore again!
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Charles crossing the finish line
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We all made it in one piece - without major drama (well, with my heart filling my mouth, I could hardly scream...)
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The glorious sunshine (against all forecasts free and paid for) turned into heavy showers at some point (matching all forecasts free and paid for)
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(Photo courtesy of Patrick)

But fortunately not for long, giving Steve the chance to make contact with the locals
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... and me to change my blown fuse again a bit later (you see, as soon as I start fiddling with my, Possu quickly jumps at the opportunity...)
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The trails were just lovely
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... and we kept riding 'just one more lane' until Chaves came into view again
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Tired but happy in our secure courtyard at the end of the day
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All that was left to do was lubing the chain, taking a shower, devouring an appropriately sized dinner...
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... and retiring to bed to be ready for another exciting day.

The track log for Day 3 showed landmarks like 'Tricky vegetated trail', 'Great Summit' and the 'Descent of Death - Avoid!' - which promised a fairly entertaining route.

To be continued...
 
Brilliant report, fantastic stuff, really jealous here, i hope you get to enjoy taking part in (and reporting on) many more great trips like this, well done!
 
Thank you very much for your kind words, Jonno58 and Shep; feedback like yours makes all the time spent on writing these reports worthwhile. :)
 
Echoing Sheps words, a great report and pics. Very inspirational. Thanks for taking the time to do it. It looks a cracking trip.
 
Day 3 - Ford every stream...

On Day 3 I did something very un-German - I suggested to ride the route for Day 6 from Matt's track-log. It was sort of long (I thought we would get more and more tired throughout the week and then appreciate shorter days towards the end), it headed into a different direction and there were some intriguing waypoints like: 'Great Summit', 'Tricky vegetated track' and the 'Descent of Death'. Plenty to look forward to.

Hope they are Gore-tex socks, Patrick...
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... because our first challenge of the day was a ford
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... of unascertained depth
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(Photo courtesy of Sir Falloffalot)

In these situations it's most advisable to send a scout first
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Closely followed by a rider who's eager to put his waterproof socks to the test
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(Photo courtesy of Berin)

Prelive was next
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... having a clean run, literally
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VTwins4me
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Keep it upright, Rob!
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By the time Berin forded the stream, plenty of Paparazzi had assembled
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(Photo courtesy of Sir Falloffalot)

Come on, Martin, look nice!
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(Photo courtesy of Sir Falloffalot)

So when it was Dr JM's turn, there was no gentleman left to ride her bike across for her
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(Photo courtesy of Sir Falloffalot)

If Louis was here, he wouldn't have let me do this...
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(Photo courtesy of Sir Falloffalot)

When I'm next online, I will un-friend you all...
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(Photo courtesy of Sir Falloffalot)

I was last in line, as my fuse had blown again and I thought I'd rather change it before getting stuck in the middle of the river...
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After that, it was just a short stretch to the road but although it was a perfectly obvious trail, the farmer standing between us and the tarmac wasn't very happy about our presence. After a few friendly words in Spaniguese he relented though and even lowered his fence-line for us. I'm not sure what Janey would have told him if he had tried to make us ride back through the ford again... :eek:
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The next trail took us up into the hills
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...on fast gravel tracks meandering between the wind turbines
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Wet layers were exchanged, jelly babies and stories shared...
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"Are we here for trail riding?" Janey's patience with the rest of us was exhausted...
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Our next challenge was the anticipated 'Tricky Vegetated Track'
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(Photo courtesy of Patrick)

Are we still on the purple line?
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Occasionally there was a clearance where we could regroup...
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(Photo courtesy of VTwins4me)

... and establish who actually had a kn*b... :augie
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Then it took a bit of an effort to get going again
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Progress was slow but steady
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"You are not holding me back, Martin!"
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At some point my front wheel went precariously over the edge - but the valiant Sir Falloffalot came to the rescue and lifted my bike back onto the trail...
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Finally we emerged on the plateau
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Berin
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Dr JM
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Duncan looked pleased
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... and so did Possu - it had been hard work but he got us all to the end of the track
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On top of the world
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Suddenly a little dog approached us out of nowhere
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She hadn't eaten for a long time, obviously, and we gathered any food we had that wouldn't do her too much harm
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It was very sad but there wasn't much we could do for her...
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We were right on the border between Portugal and Spain and far away from human settlements
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Our brave leader tested the loose soil climb first - the only way is left!
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Rob tried the more promising line
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"Do you need a hand?"
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"He may need a hand but he hasn't said yet..."
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The boys all made it in the end; I was next - and then it was Janey's turn
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Great style!
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... and impeccable finish
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Sir Falloffalot - more and more untrue to his name as the week went on
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Charles brought up the rear
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Somewhere down there our lunch is waiting for us...
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We better get a move on then
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(Photo courtesy of Berin)

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(Photo courtesy of Patrick)

The town of Montalegre may not be picturesque in every corner...
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... but it has great pastelarias!
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(Photo courtesy of Sir Falloffalot)

Trail riders' delight
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(Photo courtesy of Sir Falloffalot)

With our energy levels restored, we were ready for anything the afternoon would throw at us.

Anything? Little did we know of the challenges that were lying ahead...
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To be continued
 
Day 3 Afternoon - The Descent of Death

Now I don't know if you have noticed, but there are some fundamental differences between men and women.

So, for example, if I see a waypoint on the track-log that says 'Descent of Death - AVOID!', I think: Matt is a very accomplished rider, we have ridden together on many occasions, he hasn't even bothered to mark the boulder field from Day 1 or THAT HILL on the map - so when he says we should rather avoid something, then I absolutely believe him and go round. Especially if the detour is very conveniently highlighted on the map.

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Whereas Possu reads 'Descent of Death - AVOID!' and thinks: "Right, Matt has done it and assumes we lesser mortals are not good enough riders to follow in his tracks - that's a gauntlet and I'll pick it up!"

See what I mean? For the sake of ongoing harmony we agreed to look at the landmark at least...

But we had to get there first. The track took us through enchanted countryside
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... to the 'Great Summit' (just note how clean Dr JM's bike still is...)
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(Photo courtesy of Berin)

And then we were on the border strip between Portugal and Spain again
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Steve seemed to be in trouble
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How many trail riders do you need...?
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Exploring different options
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That's the chicken run, obviously... :augie
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It was just mayhem...
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Brute force
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... and teamwork got us out of the swamp in the end
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(Photo courtesy of Berin)

Here are all the gentlemen you were missing earlier, Janey...
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(Photo courtesy of Patrick)

Mind you, they didn't clean up afterwards... :augie
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(Photo courtesy of Berin)

Even Possu got out eventually
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Chased by Duncan and Patrick
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This short 100-metre stretch took us half an hour and it was not even way-pointed! We duly followed Matt's naming convention and christened it the 'Bog of Depth'...

Shortly after we passed the junction to the 'Descent of Death' route and I was glad to see that Possu rode past
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But no, he just hadn't spotted the waypoint in time...
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So the boys went up again to have another look, came down to report that it seemed 'alright-ish'...
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... and headed off to their most certain death - leaving the sensible ones behind...
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Those sensible ones went round on the highlighted route into Spain, which delighted us with rocky descents, hairpin bends, mossy trails, forests and meadows, until we saw a feature in the landscape that could well be the point where our companheiros should re-emerge - if they were lucky...

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We stopped at the point where both routes should meet again and waited...
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... and waited... and waited some more - until we suddenly noticed some dots up on the mountain
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By the time we spotted them the boys had negotiated the first 'Descent of Death'...
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(Photo courtesy of Patrick)

... come to the conclusion that this had probably not been their smartest move...
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(Photo courtesy of Patrick)

... but that they had passed the point of no return
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(Photo courtesy of Patrick)

Not sure what Charles had been up to...
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(Photo courtesy of Patrick)

The bikes could only be man-handled down the slope
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(Photo courtesy of Patrick)

Somewhere down there must be the sensible ones waiting...
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(Photo courtesy of Patrick)

If this was a ski piste it would be a double-black
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(Photo courtesy of Patrick)

The descent seemed to take forever and we couldn't really see if there were four dots at all - and if they were moving
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... and while we on the ground had a good laugh at the lads' expense, I was silently praying that I would have a Possu to snuggle up to that night...
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After ages, our four dare-devils reached ridable terrain again
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But their troubles were not over yet...
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(Photo courtesy of Patrick)

It took another 30 minutes until they found their way out
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Adrenaline overdose, sense of achievement and relief were written all over their faces...
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(Photo courtesy of Sir Falloffalot)

Happy reunion - all was forgiven!
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(Photo courtesy of Sir Falloffalot)

Posing for the 2015 Darwin Award team entrance
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I think we stuck to the tarmac after that - the whole venture had taken the best part of two hours, it was getting late and we promptly ran into the Portuguese rush hour...
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... and we still had to rid our bikes of the remains of the 'Bog of Depth'
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That's enough, Martin, my bike needs cleaning, too
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Hardly recognisable...
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Never noticed that Steve had freckles before
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Meanwhile Patrick was making his EXC even faster
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Line-up for the daily chain lubing ritual
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And I always had Ade down as an ATGATT person...
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As a reward for mastering all the challenges of the day, we treated ourselves to a very nice dinner in the very nice Taska das Caldas
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... where the lovely staff just asked if we wanted fish or meat and then served us a variety of absolutely delicious starters, mains and desserts, water, wine, coffees and local spirits - and all that for a grand total of €13.50 per head!
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Could it get any better? Mind you, for the following day we had the notorious Roman Road on the menu...
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To be continued
 
Day 4 - The Roman Road...

There is a lane near Barca d'Alva that has a certain reputation in trail riding circles: the Roman Road. You may seen pictures of the track strewn with bikes and bodies, you may have heard tales of grown men and women in tears, of heroic rescue missions, of tantrums and utter despair...
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The Roman Road has been the ruin of many poor souls, among them my own dear Possu
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I had not ridden the trail myself, only watched others doing it from the safety of the tiny tarmac road above the gorge, but since October 2013 I had pictures of the Roman Road in the slide-show on my desktop, and every time they came up I was asking myself: would I do it or not, could I do it or not - and should I do it or not?
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Was it worth loading our bikes and gear into the vans, giving up our parking spaces, driving for over two hours each way and missing a full day's riding around Chaves just to do one lane? What if it went all horribly wrong and someone rode over the edge? Would we forever regret our recklessness?

Until the last minute the evening before the Sensible Ones were arguing that it wasn't worth the effort and risk. But when the morning dawned I was no longer one of them... A sudden calm had come over me; why should I not be able to face the challenge? Surely my little mountain goat of a CRF 230 would carry me everywhere I wanted? Weren't we all together in this?

And so eight of us were packing our bits and pieces and heading south east.
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Due to some navigational errors (and Steve not listening to my directions... :augie), it took us almost three hours to get to Barca d'Alva; time for a second breakfast.
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(Photo courtesy of VTwins4me)

Then we unloaded the bikes, chatted to some of the many French cycle tourists about the beauty of Portugal
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(Photo courtesy of Patrick)

... and got <strike>dolled-up</strike> - erm, changed
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(Photo courtesy of Patrick)

Are you ready to roll?
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After a few more navigational ambiguities, I took the lead and we finally arrived at the miradouro where you get the first impression of the Roman Road
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Ave Caesar, morituri te salutant...
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Possu pointed out the particularly gnarly bits
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(Photo courtesy of Patrick)

... and we continued to the start of the trail. It was very hot...
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... and a little refreshment was more than welcome :thumb
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Onwards!
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Possu and Patrick were so eager that they overshot the trail by half a mile... :augie
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(Photo courtesy of Patrick)

For future reference - that's the entrance
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Follow me, said Steve, it's downhill from here...
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Are you coming?
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Sir Falloffalot isn't particular fond of heights...
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What's next?
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(Photo courtesy of Patrick)

This corner is a bit too tight to ride - and the sheer drop beyond the track naturally prompts a more cautious approach
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Patrick couldn't wait his turn
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VTwins4me preparing for the manoeuvre
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Charles, round the bend, safe and sound
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Onto the next obstacle...
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Hey, what's that white spot in the distance?
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It's Bill, who had wisely dropped out after the ford - stating that one of us had to take photographs and inform the next of kin...
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Bill's view of our descent
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The going was slow, it was still very hot and I couldn't be of great use anyway...
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... so I just carried on and - gravity is your friend! - was the first one on the bridge, our halfway point!
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The others followed in due course
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Possu
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Sir Falloffalot
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Just imagine you are at the bottom of the ravine... I do - all the time!
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Patrick swept up behind us
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Phew - all hands on the bridge!
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I'm sure by now you are all pretty exhausted just from looking, so we'll all have a little break
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(Photo courtesy of Patrick)

And by the way, this was the easy bit...
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(Photo courtesy of Patrick)

To be continued
 
Day 4 - Part II of the Roman Road

The uphill section after the bridge may not look anything special, but the narrow track and the abyss on your left combined with tricky steps and deflecting rocks make the ascent rather challenging.

As it is the custom, we sent a scout first
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Possu going strong...
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(Photo courtesy of Bill)

The vultures' view
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(Photo courtesy of Bill)

... and he made it up to the plateau under his own steam!
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We others were not so lucky...
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(Photo courtesy of Bill)

Oops - that would appear to be me then...
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(Photo courtesy of Bill)

A bit close to the edge
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(Photo courtesy of Bill)
But I also made it up there - and if Steve hadn't stood in the way all the time, I might have even managed it without stopping...
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Next in line was Ade
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Defeated by the steps
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Back a bit...
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... because you need some momentum for the next stage
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Yep, looking good!
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Now that is close!
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Well done! applauded spectator Bill
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Pick your line - it was either along the edge or over those nasty steps for Charles
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Possu gave everything...
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... to get us all up to safety
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VTwins4me
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OK, Rob, so it's clutch, gear, throttle and clutch again...
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... and with a little help of his friends...
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Rob also arrived on the plateau
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It was hard work - especially for the Roman Road assistance!
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Take a picture I can send home to my family, said Ade...
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Then it was Sir Falloffalot's turn
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Take your time, Duncan, Patrick is on holiday and not in a hurry...
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Always look ahead where you want to go
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(Photo courtesy of Patrick)

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(Photo courtesy of VTwins4me)

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(Photo courtesy of VTwins4me)

Phew - mission accomplished!
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And finally, Patrick had a clear run
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(Photo courtesy of VTwins4me)

Don't count your chickens, boys...
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We're not quite there yet
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... and the vultures haven't given up their hopes of a sumptuous lunch
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Not far to go anymore, assured us Possu
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Final spurt
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(Photo courtesy of Bill)

I made a bit of a mess of the last few metres, letting all the tension go and screaming at the top of my voice
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(Photo courtesy of Bill)

One more helpful push and it was over - I had done the Roman Road!
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(Photo courtesy of Bill)

Rob was very pleased as well
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Duncan headed straight for the photographer
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(Photo courtesy of Bill)

... and Patrick brought up the rear
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Very classy, cool and calm, as always
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Steve was relieved - and shattered
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The Roman Road Posse! Where are the T-shirts?
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(Photo courtesy of VTwins4me)

Surely, we would just retire to the bar in Barca d'Alva now and then head back home to Chaves?

What kind of wussy question is that? We still have a few hours to do some trails while we are here!

To be continued
 
Day 4 - What happened after the Roman Road...

Well, after the Roman Road we were all pretty knackered and headed for the closest human settlement with a bar, Barca d'Alva
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(Photo courtesy of VTwins4me)

... where we were spoilt again with humongous ham and cheese sandwiches and delicious coffee
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(Photo courtesy of VTwins4me)

As there are so many tracks in Portugal, we thought we could just ride along the road and branch off as soon as we see a promising trail. Alas, more than once we ended up in a field, in busy vinyards and olive groves, where we rather turned round than disturb the farmers, and after a while we decided to head back to the valley of the Roman Road.

We had already been grateful for Matt's track log before, but this trial-and-error experience made us fully appreciate how much time and effort had gone into the route planning. Next time we see Matt, we'll all buy him a drink.

Back in the Ribeiro do Masteiro, we followed a trail along the river until we came to a little wooden bridge at the end of the gorge.
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Judging by the contour lines on TopoLusitania I was convinced that this was a footpath - until I checked Google Maps later, where the Roman Road didn't appear at all but the goat track was labelled as an 'Unnamed Road'. There you go.

It's not impossible, was Possu's verdict
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You know what's coming, don't you? :rolleyes:
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Patrick was off in an instant
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Steve approached more carefully
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Briefly contemplating if going through the water would be the better option...
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Meanwhile Patrick had already gained considerable height
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(Photo courtesy of Patrick)

Ade lent a hand
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... and off my Possu went
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Patrick tried to lure more of us onto the track...
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... but Steve called down that I should rather refrain from following him. I wasn't going to, Possu baby...
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So it was just the two of them exploring the other side of the Roman Road valley
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(Photo courtesy of Patrick)

Some clenching of vital parts was involved in places, but they came out at the other end eventually, all excitement glands being sated.
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The rest of us explored a bit more of the valley, with me almost going over the edge while trying to circumnavigate a farmer's car that was parked right in the middle of the track. All English riders went left - I, born and bred on the continent took the right turn and promptly dropped through the undergrowth which was hiding a treacherous ledge. Fortunately I had four knights in shining armour with me and so we were soon on our way again.

After some fruitless attempts to find an alternative route back to the river Douro we returned to the little tarmac road, where we were suddenly reunited with Patrick and Steve again - perfect timing!

By then it was already 5 o'clock, we still had to pack up bikes and gear and drive two hours back to Chaves. Still, the views over the beautiful Douro valley were irresistible and forced us to stop for the occasional photo.
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Your typical white van men: Sir Falloffalot, Prelive and Bill Mc
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There is nothing but the scenic route - Torre de Moncorvo
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Fortunately, Patrick and Ade had the latest version of CityNavigator on their Montana and followed the quickest route on the newly built motorway - so new that on my slightly out-dated mapping we were mostly watching the cursor moving through empty space... :doh

Quite a bit earlier than expected we arrived back at base, just in time to save Dr JM and Berin from starvation and head for the Pizzeria Testarossa together
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Had the Roman Road been worth all the effort? Absolutely - and to quote Patrick's résumé: we all learned something about risk and reward that day.

To be continued...
 
Enjoying this. Thoughts of 'how would I get my bike out of here in the event of....' stop me from enjoying a holiday like this. Great to watch others from my armchair though.
 


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